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What best to trust on cooling 96 Outback


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Hoping I;m nearly finished with my latest fixer upper. Friend sold me their 96 Outback 2.2 and 5 speed with 230k. Local Subaru shop had diagnosed a failed water pump leading to a small head gasket leak.

 

When I drove it home it was very low on oil (Later found a trickler of a cam seal leak) Filled it up right away.

 

Drove 10 miles home and temp went up to half way and stayed there. Got home and the motor was running hotter than I thought. Low coolant so i dont think the temp sensor was able to read correctly.

 

Moving forward I did a head gasket job and put a low miles water pump in. Replaced the temp sensor with a used one. New oil. New coolant. Turns out the motor had been run for a while with straight water so water pump seemed okay but was pretty corroded. Flushed stuff with the garden hose.

 

Now driving it here's where I'm at. Still warms right to halfway (A little higher than norm as usually these cars stay pegged just below half way on the gauge.) I know the coolant is full. Got good heat from the blower. Stays at half but not sure to trust it.

 

After a spirited 10 minute drive the top rad hose is hot (Can squeeze the radiator hose without it burning but it's good and hot) Lower is not as hot but quite warm as well.

 

Rad fan has not clicked on yet. Checked connections and fuse and all is well. Thinking of running the fan off a switch for now to see if that's the issue.

 

But unsure of rad fan #1. and not sure to trust the thermostat or temp sensor. Anything else to consider?

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Put it in test mode and make sure the fans work.

If you have a scanner that reads OBD live data make sure the ECM temp sensor is reading properly.

 

Temp guage on my 96 sits slightly lower than the one on my 95. But The 96 runs about 5-8° hotter than the 95. (according to the ECU temp reading on tmy scanner. 96 runs about 195, 95 runs about 189) Where the guage sits will depend on the condition of the wiring and can also vary based on the sensor. I wouldn't worry about that too much as long as it isn't creeping up higher.

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If it has AC, unplug the AC compressor (95' is one wire for the clutch, dunno if yours is the same) then turn the AC on. Both fans should kick on but you won't have the AC lugging the engine down. That's a quick fan tester.

 

With the radiator cap off, can you see any of the rows in the hole? Do they have a bunch of calcium on the edges of the rows? Tap water causes that.

 

Although it doesn't seem to be too common in passenger cars, it is possible for the fins to get dirt plugging up, which reduces the efficiency of the radiator. If you remove the fan shroud, (and ideally have the radiator out) take a garden hose and remove the nozzle, then let the water (as it exits the open hose) flow directly through the fins, taking care not to let the brass rub the fins, and systematically flush the entire fin area. 

 

If you unbolt the upper radiator supports and have shroud off, you can lean the radiator forward a tiny bit while water passes through. Take note of the water as it exits the opposite side. If it's dark and murky, you have dirt plugging that section of fins. If it's passing through clear enough to drink, move to next area.

 

People with long gravel driveways, long dirt roads, desert areas, etc. are more prone to this being an issue, but I've seen giant 4" semi truck radiators (things are about as big as a compact's hood) clog up from too much dirt caking the fins. Thicker cores are more susceptible, but it will cause the overly warm.

 

Probably not your issue, but either clogged internal rows (from tap water usage) or caked up cooling fins are the 2 things that manifest with radiators not doing their jobs.

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Put it in test mode and make sure the fans work.

If you have a scanner that reads OBD live data make sure the ECM temp sensor is reading properly.

 

+1 on this to start. The fact that your fans don't seem to be kicking on is strange, I'd start there. Although once you're moving almost at all, it shouldn't matter.

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