Thinking about this Outback...

[Stevo F]

I saw a Craigslist ad for a '96 Outback. I've really wanted one of these, and miss the whole 2nd gen Legacy thing since we gave our '98 wagon to my son. I personally prefer the Outback over the Legacy because of its look and higher stance, but of course dislike the issues with the EJ25D over the bulletproof EJ22 (which is in my son's car of course).

 

The issue is we've got a full stable of cars already (5 cars- 3 being Subaru and 4 drivers). We do have a son who will be driving the next couple of years so it could be a nice ride for him at some point (although I question whether having him drive a 25 year old car, maybe on longer trips, makes sense.

 

Anyway, here is a link to the ad and below is what the owner told me about the car:

 

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/5458620219.html

 

Owners comments:

 

"I was told by the previous owner the head gaskets had been done at 110k. He sold it to me because the water pump bolts had become loose and was leaking fluid. I then did the water pump, thermostat, pulleys, and timing belt. Their is a valve cover leak. Wanna get around to it but always dreading it. I did the timing/waterpump at 180k. So other the one valve cover its fine. All internal functions work A/C heating radio

 

 

The Subaru was my girlfriends daily driver until recently so I had to stay on top of the maintenance. She got a new Corolla and she gifted it to me. I also just had the front left axel and cv joint done because it clunking. The alternator gave out and I also did that around October.

 

After I did the water pump and timing job the temp has never gone past half way even in the summer, so I'm guessing also that the head gasket was done right. Underneath the rust is I'd say average. The car was from Roanoke area so through their winters too. The aftermarket trailer hitch has plenty of surface that's the only thing the looks really bad. The only spot on the paint I've noticed is on right rear fender. No surface rust just a spot of paint raised up. Can't tell if rust bubble or the part of the two tone wrap coming up. That's the only spot on the paint. The front subframe looks to be okay little bit of oil has kept most rust away. The interior is really nice. Worn but held together nicely. No major faults.

 

I'll get you some more pictures later if you want. The previous owner kept a log of the maintenance he did, and I didn't but I still kept up with it, the inside was too nice to just let it go to waste you know. Yeah it's still nice and I was gonna keep it for winters but just seeing if anybody wanted it. Take ski trips in it all the time. Let me know if you need any more info."

 

From this it sounds like the owner is on top of things and knowledgeable about these cars. One concern I have is, given there should be approx 75K miles on the replacement headgaskets, I assume they would have failed long ago if the heads were warped or the replacement gaskets were inferior. My question is should I expect them to go again, or would the one time replacement be the fix? I'd be open to putting an EJ22 in it, but I'm not that handy to do the job myself.

 

Any thoughts?

 

[mikaleda]

Sounds like a good car that's been taken care of. Worst case scenario the head gaskets go out in another 75k miles then either do them again or swap an ej22 in (really easy swap) I would jump on it personally.

[Bushwick]

Seems the seller took the time to be thorough with a reply. I'd meet up with the seller and take for test drive.

 

 

Take a vacuum gauge with you and connect it clost to throttlebody (avoid fuel pressure regulator vacuum lines) and see if if it's holding steady vacuum. Google "vacuum gauge test car engine" for other links, but check this one out:

http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

 

Vacuum tests can detect everything from weak valve springs, sticking valves, incorrect ignition timing, worn piston rings, incorrect plug gaps, etc. Takes about 5 minutes and gauges can be had for $15.

 

The link provided has a rather simple table graph that you can view from a phone (or print it) and any issues with the engine (seller would probably NOT be aware of it) that might appear, would be to your advantage if you wanted to negotiate the price a bit. 

 

If you go there and seem like a legit buyer, and he's watching what you are doing, there shouldn't be any issues, as it'll either help him sell it, or at least make him aware. Being a 96', you know it's a prime ej22 swap candidate, so if the engine was in poor health or had a serious issue being masked, you could outright say "Well, I'd be interested in swapping in another engine, but price has to be right, can you work with me on the price a bit?". Then again, if it seems like a really good deal and vacuum is saying something like weak springs, you could still drive it. 

Edited February 25, 2016 by Bushwick

[zeb1234]

find a 94 or older legacy wagon turbo that car assembled in japan is flipping tank proof. no offense but after 96 they just ln my personal OPINION just dont stand up. i have 94 legacy trb wag.,85 gl sedan, 99 outback legacy, ill trust 85 over all

[Bushwick]

find a 94 or older legacy wagon turbo that car assembled in japan 

 

Can you either elaborate on what exactly you were trying to say there or edit the post into separate sentences? Can't tell if you are saying 94' Wagon with a factory turbo, or he should turbo one, and/or are you saying he should import an actual right-hand drive JDM?

 

FWIW, I have a 95' wagon non-turbo with the ej22 and it's nearing 190k miles and other than rust that's been creeping up the doors over the past year, this thing runs/drives as good as a car with a 1/4 of mileage. Everything works and with good tires it doesn't get stuck. Other than the rear crossmember rotting on this generation rather badly, these cars are seemingly the best bargain out there with non interference heads.

[mikec03]

 

although I question whether having him drive a 25 year old car, maybe on longer trips, makes sense.

Maybe I'm an expert in this area.  I've bought four 90's subaru's for my two sons.  Both of the cars they are now driving have 150K miles.  This amounts to about 20 driver years of experience on all four cars.

 

The maintenance that stopped the cars was:  Alternator failure [2], fuel pump failure [2], MAF failure [1], and throttle positioner failure [1].  So thats a "stranding event" about every 3 years for cars with 130K+ miles.  So I tell my kids, that it's alright to drive within about 100 miles of home but not long trips.  A 100 mile tow cost is about $200 which is tolerable.  I told my kids that if they want to drive somewhere on vacation, they can take my 2014 subaru and I'll drive theirs.  I enjoy driving the 90's subarus anyway.  

[Stevo F]

 

Maybe I'm an expert in this area.  I've bought four 90's subaru's for my two sons.  Both of the cars they are now driving have 150K miles.  This amounts to about 20 driver years of experience on all four cars.

 

The maintenance that stopped the cars was:  Alternator failure [2], fuel pump failure [2], MAF failure [1], and throttle positioner failure [1].  So thats a "stranding event" about every 3 years for cars with 130K+ miles.  So I tell my kids, that it's alright to drive within about 100 miles of home but not long trips.  A 100 mile tow cost is about $200 which is tolerable.  I told my kids that if they want to drive somewhere on vacation, they can take my 2014 subaru and I'll drive theirs.  I enjoy driving the 90's subarus anyway.  

Yes, I love those old 90's Subaru's too- love the look of them as well as the simplicity. I guess one factor on reliability is whether you have an EJ22 (we've had 2 so far, including one in my son's '98 Legacy wagon) or and EJ25D. The car I'm looking at has the EJ25D, but it looks like it'd the needed headgasket/ timing belt service done on it. Would like ot go look at the car, but will need to offload one of our other cars (which likely be our 2005 OBS (with stick that few of us can drive)