Legacy brake caliper problem

[ron2368]

I have a 06 Legacy sedan. The front driver caliper is seized , this will be the 3rd time I have replaced this one. Other than the brand of rebuilt I am buying, last one was a Wearever through Advance Auto, Could there be any other reason why this wheel keeps having problems? Thank you

[Rooster2]

By "seized," are you referring to the slide pin(s) seizing?? I have had that happen twice on my 98 OBW. The solution is to grease the pins with a lube made for that purpose. I had been using anti-seize compound, but that didn't seem to hold up. I have heard of others say that they will clean and lube their slide pins as a precaution, even when there is not a problem.

[ron2368]

No its the piston on the caliper. After I drive a bit I can hear the scraping in that wheel as I drive, then it smells like something is burning. When I stop and check it, the wheel felt like it could heat my house, very hot. I see that I replaced this caliper in May 2014.

[1 Lucky Texan]

did the brake hose get twisted at some point? maybe after some work on that corner. (struts or ???)

 

anyway, hydraulic hoses can (rare) fail in such a way as to create a 'check valve' on the inside and pressure can't be relieved properly.

 

an '06, I'd probably replace the front hoses as a pair. in case the one is 'ballooning' a little from age.

Edited February 28, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[ron2368]

I have not removed this caliper yet but the last time the piston was locked, so I am assuming it is the same problem. I will check the lines. Over the last week when I back out of the garage there has been a noise in that wheel if I have a little pressure on the brake. Thank you.

[gbhrps]

ron2368,

 

A 2006 is 10 years old, and I'm willing to take a gamble and guess that you've never changed the brake fluid, right? Well that might be part of the problem as to why you keep seizing pistons in the calipers.

 

The brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, that rusts your brake lines and the inner bores of the calipers and pistons. Because they move so little when you brake, any internal corrosion of the piston and the caliper bore never really gets scraped off, and builds up until the piston never fully releases when you take your foot off the brake pedal.

 

I've been there several times over the years, and the fix is simple. Flush the entire brake system with brand new brake fluid every 4 years (that's what your owner's manual says as well, for some cars every two years). Then remove the caliper from the car (you can do it on the car but its awkward) and use compressed air to pop the piston out of the caliper.

 

Clean it and the caliper bore with fine steel wool (four ought/ 0000) to remove any corrosion, and flush clean. Then inspect both for any pits that may indicate that both be replaced. If there is no pitting (a pitted piston or bore will leak brake fluid) you can push the piston back into the caliper and remount it and bleed it on the car.

 

The simplest way to get the piston back into the caliper (assuming that the piston seal and the dust boots are clean and in good condition) is to place the piston on top of the dust boot while blowing compressed air into the brake line opening. The dust boot will billow out and slip over the piston easily. allowing you to then push the piston back into the caliper by hand or with a large "C" clamp.

 

YouTube video of this method:

 

Good Luck!

[idosubaru]

install a used Subaru caliper - high quality grease (Silglyde) and you'll never have issues again.  Subaru caliper pistons seizing is unbelievably rare,  it's not something that normally happens on Subaru's at all for any reason except sitting in a grassy field in the rust belt - but those cars have rust and metal falling off them left and right.  this is not your 2006. 

 

even still unless you've actually looked at it - it may be just the slides this time. 

and it may have been the slides that failed on the first original Subaru calipers. 

 

www.car-part.com has plenty of calpiers for you for cheap.