1999 Impreza head gasket replace...motor in or out?

[sweetbeats]

Greetings everybody...long-time Subaru owner, brand new forum member.

 

What brings me here today is my son and I have determined he's got a head gasket issue on his 1999 Impreza L sedan.  We're trying to figure out if it is possible to get the heads off with the motor installed, or if we'll have to pull the motor.  I saw a youtube of a guy pulling the heads on a newer Legacy, but it looked like a PITA and of course his efforts don't tell me if we can do the same on my son's car.

 

Anybody know the definitive answer?

 

I know pulling the motor would make it easier for sure, but neither of us have experience pulling a motor.

 

BTW, we determined head gasket failure after the car started having sudden bouts of extreme overheating...would be fine for a mile or two and then the temp gauge would skyrocket.  Shutting the engine off for a bit would bring the temp back down and you could go another mile or two and then *boom* up goes the temp.  We replaced the thermostat, burped the cooling system multiple times, etc., but it would always get more air in it.  The coolant expansion tank has constant bubbling, there is a black film on the surfaces inside the coolant expansion tank, and if we pop the radiator cap vapors come out steady that smell like exhaust.

[DaveT]

Yep, that's fully blown. I did a headgasket job with the engine in the car once, a long time ago, on one of my older Subarus. I've re-sealed at least a few since, removed from the car. I much prefer removing them to do that level of work.

 

To give yourself the best chance at removing stuck bolts, get the engine to near normal operating temperature. Either by running or heat gun and space heater. Then loosen / remove them.

[sweetbeats]

Thanks for the info. I'm confident the head gasket replacement itself would be easier with the engine out, but it's getting to that point that would be a stickler for my son and me. We're needing to determine what kind of help we need to track down if necessary. If the engine on his car MUST come out to do that job then it's a no-brainier; we need to do it and find the help and equipment to do it. If it DOESN'T have to come out, then we have decisions to make about how much we want to bust our knuckles and hassle with the tight spaces vs getting help and equipment to pull the engine.

 

Just hoping somebody can definitively inform yay or nay the engine in a 1999 Impreza L has to come out to pull the heads.

[AdventureSubaru]

It can be done in the car. Many have done it. I did one last week but it will likely be the last time I do. It doesn't really take any longer, but 2 reasons I would prefer to pull the motor.

 

1. Head gaskets seating/damage. - Working the head around int there with bolts protruding and head gasket able to flop and slide around gave way more chances to gouge the gasket or get oil/residue on the gasket or mating surfaces.

 

2. Torquing procedure - particularly on the drivers side was not nearly as exact for those times when you have to tighten 180 or 90 degrees at a time.

 

It came together fine and is already a high miles motor, but if I were to do it again, I'd like the peace of mind that it's pretty exact and sealed up right.

[sweetbeats]

I think we'll get started with the motor in, and I'll pull it if, during the tear-down, it seems like it would be too much to put it back together with the block in the car.

 

Anybody ever use that copper spray gasket adhesive?  Was thinking that could be used to adhere the new gaskets to the head avoiding damage from the bolts during an engine-in head install.

 

So what all do we need to do this job as far as parts?  And what else should we do while we've got things opened up?

 

Things I can think of:

• replace timing belt
• replace timing belt idlers
• replace water pump
• ???

 

Parts we need I can think of:

• intake manifold gaskets
• exhaust port gaskets
• head gaskets (duh)
• new parts for the above procedures
• valve stem seals?
• ???

And lastly, what is a good service manual?  Haynes okay?  I'm not a huge fan of the Chiltons manuals...

Edited March 1, 2016 by sweetbeats

[idosubaru]

The SUbaru FSM's are readily available free onlilne - use those.  i ca't believe haynes and chiltons are still i business.

 

if this was a cheap craigslist special with unknown history and a severely blown gasket it might not last very long when your'e done. 

signfiicant overheats further compromise the gaskets - and the rod bearings.  i've bought plenty of EJ blocks with holes in them or seized - some i knew were previously overheatd or had gaskets replaced, the others I can nearly guarantee they were previously overheated. 

 

doing it in the car isn't that bad.  i consider it no worse than dealing with separating the engine and trans, TC bolts, lining up the engine and trans, tiling the contraption at the proper angle, getting to the lower bolts by the CV axles, etc. 

 

remove the two lower 14mm engine mount nuts and the top pitch stopper.  maybe even the rear trans mount if properly supported, though i've never done that, but may give more room for entire lump to rotate. 

do that and it's not hard at all to do in the car - just jack up the given head you're working on - jack DS up when you're working on it and PS when ou're working on it. 

 

in addition to your list:

 

get a complete timing belt kit and come with pulleys and timing tensioner - the Gates kits on amazon are popular and well priced. 

Subaru water pump gasket and Tstat - the aftermarkets are flimsy cardboard. 

cam seals, crank seal, and oil pump oring

valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube gaskets (those come in a kit together sometimes, just depends)

sealant for the oil pump

 

on EJ25's we use the Turbo headgaskets....i haven't looked into any options like that for the EJ22. 

[steve56]

The SUbaru FSM's are readily available free onlilne - use those.  i ca't believe haynes and chiltons are still i business.

 

if this was a cheap craigslist special with unknown history and a severely blown gasket it might not last very long when your'e done. 

signfiicant overheats further compromise the gaskets - and the rod bearings.  i've bought plenty of EJ blocks with holes in them or seized - some i knew were previously overheatd or had gaskets replaced, the others I can nearly guarantee they were previously overheated. 

 

doing it in the car isn't that bad.  i consider it no worse than dealing with separating the engine and trans, TC bolts, lining up the engine and trans, tiling the contraption at the proper angle, getting to the lower bolts by the CV axles, etc. 

 

remove the two lower 14mm engine mount nuts and the top pitch stopper.  maybe even the rear trans mount if properly supported, though i've never done that, but may give more room for entire lump to rotate. 

do that and it's not hard at all to do in the car - just jack up the given head you're working on - jack DS up when you're working on it and PS when ou're working on it. 

 

in addition to your list:

 

get a complete timing belt kit and come with pulleys and timing tensioner - the Gates kits on amazon are popular and well priced. 

Subaru water pump gasket and Tstat - the aftermarkets are flimsy cardboard. 

cam seals, crank seal, and oil pump oring

valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube gaskets (those come in a kit together sometimes, just depends)

sealant for the oil pump

 

on EJ25's we use the Turbo headgaskets....i haven't looked into any options like that for the EJ22. 

 

I'm not understanding your sentence highlighted. Could you be more specific with your wording and description.  

[idosubaru]

if you don't understand then ignore the second sentence - first sentence tells everything you need to know:

 

remove the lower engine mount nuts - 14mm each.  that's what holds the engine to the crossmember - just above the exhaust. 

unbolt the pitch stopper - located at back of engine in the engine bay. 

 

if you're unfamiliar with those terms google them or get a Subaru FSM - if you don't know those terms then you should definitely get a SUbaru FSM for the job.  they're readily avialable online for free. 

[forester2002s]

After undoing those components, you can jack the engine up (and twist it a bit) to give more clearance to get at the heads.

 

DS means Driver Side.

PS means passenger Side.

[steve56]

After undoing those components, you can jack the engine up (and twist it a bit) to give more clearance to get at the heads.

 

DS means Driver Side.

PS means passenger Side.

The twisting part is where I'm having problems. I have the engine jacked up from oil pan with floor jack and 2x4 block. Looking for best way to twist engine for access for lower right head bolt.

 

I usually pull the motor to do head gaskets. This car has a bent valve on one head. I really like the idea of trying this without pulling the engine. It would save alot of time if there is an efficient way to do it.