Bushwick Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Last year had a fuel leak, driver-side, directly under back seat cushion area that leaked under the car. The line directly next to the one I fixed before has rotted through on some rusted scaling, but I need to verify if it's the return line (pretty sure it is). If looking from under the car, driver-side, right where the trailing arm bolts to the unibody, is a very small cubby hole, where 3 lines are crammed next to each other. One is definitely a fuel line, other terminates into some type of breather apparatus in the same area, and 3rd line I'm assuming is a return line? It has a clear shrink tubing on the corner bend. When the other line rotted, it dumped a bunch of fuel with engine off after cutting it, so I'm assuming that was the actual fuel line. How much fuel can be in the return line? If I have to plug it as a temp solution (assuming I can't get enough good tubing to slip 5/16" hose over) can these engines tolerate no fuel return? I've run carb'd engines w/o a return and they ran fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 It'll run too rich without a return. Don't block it off. If it's too rusty just cut it off and run injection hose from the top of the tank over to there. The two larger lines are supply and return. They run along side each other the whole way from the tank to the engine. A smaller hose next to those is the evap system vapor line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Where is that evap line supposed to attach at? It's ziptied at the apparatus (don't have any codes). OK, I'll peel back some of the clear shrink wrap on the bend as the tubing should still be strong there, and run the new section off that. I have to go to a doc apt. tomorrow. With a minor rusting-leak, suppose it'll be ok? It's not dumping out, just working through the rust. About 5 mile round trip distance, then can deal with it. Not running rich atm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 The evap line should be right near the other two fuel lines. The evap line will not have liquid fuel in it (it shouldn't at least), so if the line is wet its probably the return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 That evap thing is just ziptied loosely to the area. Noticed it before, but couldn't tell if it was supposed to be somewhere else. I'll leave it be. Thanks Fairtax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Well, not sure how to proceed. From what I can tell, the factory tension clip rotted off the return line's rubber section up in that pocket near the control arm, and there's enough psi in the line to have fuel leak past, and it appeared to be leaking at a rusted section. I carefully scored the old hose off with a razor (wishing I'd just added a new clamp and left the hose alone) and worked the new hose both ends, as careful as possible. When engine was started, it puked gas in the area. Tightened the fuel line-style clamps further, and noticed it was still leaking, but the fuel seems to be leaking from a top-down orientation. It would seem there might be another rubber section up in that cubby area (the fuel lines enter the body at one end, under the back seat cushion; the opposite end seems to hook back around above the cubby and can't really tell where it's going) that might have a rusted clamp as well. Reason I'm thinking it's a hose with rusted clamp is the leak is soaking one the metal lines and I can see the fuel coating it vs. just random spraying. Anyhow, I can't really see HOW in the hell you are supposed to get at the lines that are routed back through the top of the cubby? Are these feeding the tank? Or are they feeding lines that enter the engine? Again, to be clear, the fuel lines entering the cabin area under the back seat aren't where the leak is. If you follow those lines OUT of the seat area, they start feeding back towards the rear (outdside) of the car for roughly 8" then up, then apparently forward again unless they are feeding the hard lines of the fuel pump assembly? I'm not entirely sure how to proceed. And want to avoid dropping the tank if at all possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 The lines going up through the floor under the seat to to the engine. Going back from there they go to the tank. Go in the trunk/cargo area and pull up the carpet and remove the access panels over top of the tank. Feed two sections of new 5/16 or 3/8" (whichever macthes what's there. Only do one at a time.) fuel injection hose through the passenger side access hole and across the top of the tank, fish it into the corner where the lines drop through the floor. Cut the hard lines off inside the cabin, flare the ends so you have a lip for the hose. Pop the new hose up through the floor and stick it on the line here, then cut to length and attach it to the corresponding line on the fuel pump cover. I think (don't recall exactly) the return line runs to the transfer tube on the drivers side first, then across to the passenger side. Napa has about the best injection hose you can get. Rated for 300 psi. The junk at autozone/advance is only like 50 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thank you! The access panel you mentioned, that's the one under the rear seat? Or is there one in the actual hatch area as well? Does the return line attach near the fuel filter up front under hood? Or does it T off the fuel rail somewhere? Dunno if I can risk limping it as-is the 2 miles to closest parts store, so thinking of temp plugging return (should rule out if return is leaking at another point or if actual fuel line is) otherwise gotta risk driving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 If it's leaking that much... Walk. Gasoline doesn't play nice. Short term, you could probably run it with the return plugged. It'll run really rich though. Where the fuel hoses meet the intake manifold, top is supply (from the filter) bottom (smallest) is the evap, middle is the return. Pinch the hose with some vice grips. Use a small piece of cardboard to wrap around the hose to keep the vice grips from cutting the outer layer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 I'll try pinching it then. Before touching anything, it just had a drip. I think the upper section (that's hidden) to where the return rubber hose was replaced, was rotted enough that the small pressure applied while getting new hose section on dislodged the hard line and hence the annoyance at an extra large flow leak. At least it sounds like most of this can be accessed through the cabin area, which is a real relief. Real head scratcher why they ran the lines like that. I saw a recent article Subaru is moving to a completely modular 1-size fits all platform that will serve as the under pinning for all future models. Hopefully they learned what works and what doesn't, as it'll either be a blessing or curse to have everything running off the same platform in years to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Pinched that middle line and idled for a couple minutes, and nothing dripped in the rear. Thanks again for piping up Fairtax! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rol11 Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 On 3/8/2016 at 6:25 PM, Fairtax4me said: Are both hoses the same size? How long should they be? "Feed two sections of new 5/16 or 3/8" (whichever macthes what's there. Only do one at a time.) fuel injection hose Napa has about the best injection hose you can get. Rated for 300 psi." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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