Engine died on highway. Now no crank, no start. ('98 Legacy Outback)

[grublet]

So I just sunk $1300 into replacing the head gaskets on my 98 Legacy Outback Limited. Got the car back and everything was fine. Drove it up north over the weekend (~200 miles) and on the way back the engine lost power while cruising at 70MPH. It sort of lurched forward as if I were running out of gas (which I wasn't).  I attempted to start the car after this and the AT Oil Temp light came on and flashed 16 times. I drove about another 1/4 mile before it died again. 

I got the car towed home and figured I'd take it to my mechanic the next day. Well I tried to start it and now I have nothing. No crank, nothing but a faint *click* sound when I turn the key.

Anyone have this problem happen before?  I can't think of anything that would cause my car to both die on the highway, trigger the AT Oil Temp light, AND no crank no start afterwards. But maybe the problems are unrelated. In either case, I'm kind of at a loss of what to do with it at this point. Any advice is appreciated.

[steve56]

Check your a oil level.

[forester2002s]

Check your battery voltage.

It should be just over 12V without the engine running.

[1 Lucky Texan]

kinda odd set of circumstances.

 

wonder about the alternator but ?????

DOH - beat by one minute

Edited March 2, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Bushwick]

Check your fusible link in the engine compartment fuse box (assuming it's like my 95').

 

In my situation, car gave ZERO warning. parked at grocery store, came out 30 minutes later, and IIRC it wouldn't crank. Acted like battery was dead, but interior had power. I popped the cover and saw the link had cracked, and corroded, and had been arcing but it was running. Once it completely ate away the rest of the wire, car failed to start. I was able to rig it to get me home.

 

I bought a universal fusible link at Auto Zone, and carefully reused the stainless steel connector spade lugs from the damaged link by carefully prying the crimping open. Then I soldered on top of that for good measure.

 

When you pop the cover, you'll a very short  " U " jumper with what looks like speaker spade connectors. Try moving it if not visibly separated. If it's hardened and the silicone is dry and cracked, it's probably shot. Try wiggling it and see if it'll start. Can try jumping with heavy gauge wire, though be VERY careful not to short that to anything else. Do NOT use cheap speaker spades if it is bad. They use inferior metal.

 

Neutral safety switches (manual trans) and out of Park or Neutral (auto) will prevent cranking too.

[johnceggleston]

 

''no crank no start''

you turn the key and the engine does nothing?

or the engine turns over but does not fire, does not start?

usually 2 different problems.

 

a bad battery did this to me once.

 

if ti turns over, check the timing?

 

the AT Temp light can be triggered by a few engine issues

tps

maf

or just a bad wire issue maybe.

or of course an actual trans electrical issue.

but since it does not run,

probably an engine issue.

[Cougar]

Like others have already stated, first make sure the battery voltage is good along with clean snug tight battery connections. If that is good then check for power to the fuses in the panel under the hood.