Sapper 157 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 1984 GL Wagon, EA81 So this summer I am planning on redoing my clutch and I figured as long as I had the engine out I might as well replace some stuff. I wanted to get a form going for it so I can really plan ahead. There is definitely oil leakage around my oil pump. Blue has 174,000 miles on the odo, should I just replace the oil pump completely? The oil PSI is still fine but I was just wondering if I should go ahead and replace it anyway? Obviously Ill do the oil pan seal while im in there. Also guessing the rear main seal should be done? What else should I tackle while its out? Head gaskets/intake manifold gaskets/exhaust gaskets have all been in done in October so I dont need to worry about those... So to summarize: Rear main, oil pump seals, — where should I buy them? Should I just replace the oil pump since it has 174K on it? Even though I am not having low PSI issues? Or should I just replace the seals and let it be? What other seals should I replace that I am forgetting/unaware of? What is the best clutch kit out there, and where should I get it? (it is a four-wheel drive wagon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 I usually get exedy clutch kits but have used luk with good results too. I get mine off ebay or they came with cars i've bought. While your at it i would replace the front main if you haven't along with the water pump. I would just reseal your oil pump since it's really easy to do. 4 o-rings and a gasket. Don't use a cork gasket for the oil pan they never leak if you use rtv. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 I usually get exedy clutch kits but have used luk with good results too. I get mine off ebay or they came with cars i've bought. While your at it i would replace the front main if you haven't along with the water pump. I would just reseal your oil pump since it's really easy to do. 4 o-rings and a gasket. Don't use a cork gasket for the oil pan they never leak if you use rtv. This may be a dumb question, but can I get to the front main and rear main seals without taking the heads off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 This may be a dumb question, but can I get to the front main and rear main seals without taking the heads off? No need to take the heads off to get the main seals. The front main you need to take off the crank pulley with a 22mm to get to it it.The rear main is behind the flywheel. You should also get your flywheel resurfaced since it's probably glazed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 No need to take the heads off to get the main seals. The front main you need to take off the crank pulley with a 22mm to get to it it.The rear main is behind the flywheel. You should also get your flywheel resurfaced since it's probably glazed. Thanks for the info! I should probably take it to a machine shop to get it resurfaced right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corvid Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 I would double check the advice on here about EA81 rear main seals, since I haven't owned one... But with all the other Subaru engines I've worked on, the rule has been that you never touch the factory rear main seal, because they almost never fail, and the replacement will always leak after install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Don't mess with the rear main seal unless it's leaking. Also, the past several 80's/90's era subaru engines I've resealed, I've made it a point to replace valve stem seals. I was getting away without doing it for alot of yrs, the engines are just getting too old and if it's not done, you'll risk ending up with a oil burner after all your hard work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 I would double check the advice on here about EA81 rear main seals, since I haven't owned one... But with all the other Subaru engines I've worked on, the rule has been that you never touch the factory rear main seal, because they almost never fail, and the replacement will always leak after install. All the ones i've done have leaked at least a little bit since all the ea81's are 28-36 years old now. I have a friend that got me all the factory seals for a ea81 i just resealed for pretty cheap. I don't see the logic behind they always leak unless it was installed it wrong or scratched the crank so it eats the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share Posted March 30, 2016 Don't mess with the rear main seal unless it's leaking. Also, the past several 80's/90's era subaru engines I've resealed, I've made it a point to replace valve stem seals. I was getting away without doing it for alot of yrs, the engines are just getting too old and if it's not done, you'll risk ending up with a oil burner after all your hard work. Valve stem seals have already been replaced with new FELPRO valve stem seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 i'd replace the rear main with a new Subaru OEM seal. yes any automotive machine shop will resurface the flywheel. $40 - $100. definitely do it. exhaust manifold gaskets i'd get from Subaru, if they were replaced with subaru gaskets when the head job was done, you could easily reuse them - the subaru units are very robust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Okay so here are the two different clutch kits im looking at: EXEDY: Part number: 15001 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2393578&jsn=254 LUK: Part number: 15003 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4694181&cc=1268344&jsn=392 I dont see anything on the Exedy kit that says anything about being compatible with 4WD. Is that kit still the right kit to get for 4WD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Clutch disc specs for EA81 4WD 1983 + 21T x 7/8” and 225mm OD ... your 84 4WD wagon will have this clutch. The 15003 seems to be an Exedy part #. You should check the specs of a 15003 to see if they match what I said in sentence above. My records show that my 82 FrontWD EA81 has a 5-speed manual. It takes a 21T x 7/8” x 200mm clutch. Sachs KF59901 or Exedy 15001. So do not buy the 15001, it is for FrontWD 5-speeds and for pre-1983 4WD. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 The AMS 15003 show the specs - Looks like the right clutch for you. Hopefully, the LUK 15003 is the same specs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted June 17, 2016 Author Share Posted June 17, 2016 (edited) Should I use a small drop of blue threadlocker on my oil pan bolts before installation to ensure they dont come loose? Also, how do I get the old throwout bearing off of the bearing guide? Do I just bang it off with a hammer or is here a more subtle way I am missing? Edited June 17, 2016 by Sapper 157 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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