Sube Buggy Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 hello everyone new to the forums and not sure if im in the right area, if not im sorry. I have a concern with my timing belt my common sense tells me the belt skipped some teeth on the crank shaft here some pictures. the mark on the sprocket is way off but i barely ran it enough for me to think that it did skip some teeth. It looks like the belt was never replaced, it looks like total garbage. The motor is out of a 95 legacy lsi (ej22) The other problem (assuming the timing is off because of the location of the timing marks) is that the motor does not start it only back fires and white smoke comes out of the intake. There is no coolant in the motor yet. hopefully I did this twice because i thought it may have been a ground issue or fuel delivery problem but its not. It ran before i made a final wiring harness and thats why im confused. hopefully I didnt destroy it. :(Any info would be great guys thanks! Belt condition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Needs a new belt for sure. Replace all the idlers and water pump as well. Yes, the crank is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) probably a good idea to replace the tensioner. Edited March 10, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Excellent Ill have no problem doing the entire thing. That's what I was going to do anyway since It clearly looks like after 160k it has not been touched the only problem is not the crank bolt is not coming out. I live in Ohio so the salt and rust here is pretty brutal. I used propane to heat the connected washer part behind the bolt and not directly on the bolt up for quite a bit of time. It didn't glow red but it was pretty hot. I hit it with about 110 psi 1/2 inch impact for awhile no luck, then heated it up again and used bolts to hold the harmonic balancer to do it manually and still nothing so i'm stuck. I'm not trying to hit it hard enough to break the bolt because as soon as that happens I'm pushing the buggy down my driveway into the lake And i might as well get this really stupid question out of the way, if im facing the timing belt the bolt turns left to loosen right? I'm not getting juked by a reverse thread right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 use a 6 point socket, 1/2" breaker bar, with a cheater pipe- put the cheater on the frame on the left side - bump the starter. Some people put the breaker on the ground - guess it would work if very long. I was lucky and an electric impact took mine off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I've used the started bump four times without a problem. The cheater pipe goes on the frame next to the battery and you disconnect the sparkplugs. Given how hard the crank bolt is on, I wouldn't have anyone around the car, aside from yourself in the driver seat, if you try this. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 I've never had luck with the bump start trick BUT it could be because i have an old super beetle transmission with the big starter probably doesn't have the proper amount of torque output. It is brand new so there is hope. but ill drop it off the jacks and onto the ground and try it after i heat it up. ill try this when i get home from school and report back to you guys. Thanks a ton guys! -Dustin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) If it's a manual trans you can leave it in 5th gear to break it free. If automatic you can pull the access plug to the flex plate bolts (Passenger side of the intake manifold behind the IACV) and have a friend hold a big screwdriver or pry bar between the access slots of the flex plate. Those bolts are a pain. Starter bump is generally okay if you can get your bar anchored well. Every once in a great while it ends in disaster though. From what I see your timing covers are off or broken. If the bolt is really stuck, you can always just break the plastic off and do the timing job with the crank pulley on. I did that once when an idler was failing and I only had a handful of tools. Timing job in a Dennys parking lot. That was fun. Edited March 10, 2016 by AdventureSubaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 wait a second adventureSubaru you can do a timing belt change with out the harmonic balancer being taken off?!?! but yes the covers are completely ripped off but its a 4 speed lol and my hydrolic clutch is not hooked up yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 yes the crank pulley technically speaking only needs removed to take the outer covers off. if the outer timing cover isn't in place then the belt can be removed and installed without removing the crank pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) I'm not convinced I can see the timing mark on that crank sprocket. It's a pretty small mark on one of the tabs that make up the tone wheel. And yea, crank sprocket only has to come off to get the covers off intact. If you don't care about the covers, it is definitely possible to change the belt with it on. Edited March 10, 2016 by Numbchux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Ej conversion addict I'm not convinced I can see the timing mark on that crank sprocket. It's a pretty small mark on one of the tabs that make up the tone wheel. That's because its almost 180 degrees off maybe not that much but i cleaned the grease off when i found it. I took pictures of the crank lined up to the block and the pulleys and its completely off. well nice then i guess i dont need to remove the bolt! i just tore the covers off not sure it it really matters or not probaly should of put more connsideration into it but oh well. ill do some more research when i get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I've run a handful with no covers. It keeps things cool and you can inspect the belt easily. Might want new covers if you are going off roading/deep snow bajaing sort of stuff. Otherwise you're fine running with no covers. Especially since yours is a 95 - just keep an old belt and idlers in the trunk and if anything ever happens, slap a new one on and drive. It's a non interference motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 i run with no covers. no big deal, as said that may differ if you're engaging debris from underneath repeatedly and have no engine under cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Its only going to be driven on the street unless its a dirt road or gravel every once and awhile i dont have the money to make a true off road beast. I ended up order a gates timing belt kit tossed it on and fired right up sounded great! thanks for all the help. One last question im trying to find a radiator is it possible to get one to big? obviously im not going to get a diesel sized radiator or anything like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 What car is it in or going in? Yes it is possible to get a radiator that's too big. If it has too much cooling capacity that can be a just as big a problem as having too little capacity. But at some point, the radiator won't actually fit under the hood of the car, so the cooling capacity is somewhat limited in that respect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 a rail buggy with a type 1 vw transmission. The amount of room for any radiator is pretty big. Wouldn't the thermostat just close sooner than normal since the radiator is bigger? Since it would open and cool a lot faster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 It will, but that's a bad thing. That constant up and down change in temperature causes major problems in aluminum engines. Cracked heads or block, warpage, head gasket failure. Severe Cylinder wall wear. The thermostat and cooling system in a Subaru engine are designed to prevent rapid temperature fluctuation, but it only works to a certain extent. If the radiator is full of cold coolant all the time, it can actually cause the engine to overheat because the themostat is constantly being forced closed by the cold coolant rushing in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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