replace inner tie rod end 2003 outback

[bluebird]

I have a 2003 outback wagon 4 cyl with about 198,000
miles.  I need to replace the driver’s
side inner tie rod, failed inspection.  I
tried to search the forum but the search function seems to be not working
right.  I have also viewed a few videos
that seem to have conflicting information. 

I have purchased the new tie rod and rented the tool.  I have a general idea of what to do but don’t

quite understand the washer that came with the tie rod.  It has two tabs on the inside of it, from one
video it looks like you have to use a punch to remove it but how do you install
the new one?  And where exactly does it
go?

The boot is not torn so I plan to use the old one.  Is this a good idea? And does grease go inside

the boot?  Can I use zip ties to hold the
boot on?  And what is the torque spec for
the tie rod?

In terms of getting the outer tie rod back in the same place

it was what do I do if the new rod has more or fewer threads than the old one,
counting them won’t work then right?

 

Any tips or links would be much appreciated.

[CNY_Dave]

The new washer goes between the new tie rod end and the rack. The tabs engage the rack so the washer can't spin, then when the tie rod end is tight the washer is bent/hammered down over the tie rod end wrench flats so it can't turn and come loose.

 

I measured the length of my old assembly, tricky as you can't just put a ruler on it. You might use a piece of string that can go to a mark on the outer tie rod end somewhere that can be bent the same way over the same things- boot's in the way, though.

 

I didn't put gerease in the end of mine, and I reused the untorn boot.

[gravitate]

You may have to use a punch on the washer where the indent is on your rack shaft or whatever you call it. There are some washers that have 2 tabs already bent in that you need to line up with that shaft and not have to worry about a punch. I have had many aftermarket washer tabs ending up being too wide and they don't fit in the slot. If this is the case just take a pair of dikes and trim off a bit on the sides of the tabs, or use a grinder if you have one.

No grease needs to be added to the boot.

You can use zip ties to hold the boot on. FYI it can be a PTA to get that boot on sometimes.

Not sure about the torque but I just tighten it by feel. Doesn't seem to be a whole lot as you can probably tell by how little it takes to get it off.

Getting the tie rod end on in the same position as the old one can be challenging. The thread count isn't a proper way of telling because the thread count can be the same but where the thread starts can be a half a turn off, if that makes sense. And manufactures can make the whole rod a fraction of a inch off. Best way to do it in my opinion is to take a tape measure and have someone hold the end in a center groove of the front of your tire and measure the distance to the edge of the center groove on the opposite tire. If you are sure that you have the proper toe in now then that will be good enough. If not, you will want to measure the same way but on the back of the tire. The front of the tire is supposed to be 1/8" narrower than the back. I would just go ahead and do your toe in if you can because it's pretty easy. Over all its a easy job. Hardest part can be getting the lock nut off. A monkey wrench can be your friend here.

Edited March 14, 2016 by gravitate

[bluebird]

Ok I got it done but it was a struggle mostly
because Auto Zone sold me a tierod end with the wrong washer; tabs too wide as mentioned in one of the tips.  I know Auto
Zone!! I took it back and had them bring another one out and sure enough that
one had the right washer.  Not too bad after that.  But when I drove
it the toe was obviously out.   I used the sting method and got it very
close, it drives well and holds straight when you let go of the steering wheel.  I’m probably going to leave it as is, I live
on a rough dirt road and paying for an alignment is a waste of money.

 

 

 

Thanks for the tips they helped a lot.