ThosL Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 I bought this Subaru yesterday for $950; a 97 Legacy wagon, "limited" I think. The guy who bought it from a local professional a couple years ago did not do much to it mechanically. Nearly 210K miles; runs great; all systems look solid. Tires are mismatched, which are an immediate concern, I'm looking at economical options. Tire rack has various models for around $200 a set, then I have to worry about mounting and balancing, etc.. Some body rust, not that bad. Leather seats are a plus. I ran a bottle of Sea Foam through the gas tank, Restore can into the oil. Lucas Transmission oil for some stiffness in the shifting. Any recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 WalMart. Goodyear Viva 3 . 16" sizes now $69, + balancing( not sure of their price). Quiet ,good tread life and good in all seasons. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhrps Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 thosl, Congrats on the new ride! Don`t be putting many miles on the car with miss matched tires! Get new ones pronto. Subies must have all 4 tires within one quarter inch circumference to prevent part of the all wheel drive system from destroying itself, read èxpensive to fix. There is a warning to this effect in the Owner`s Manual. You simply cannot run 3 worn tires with one brand new one for example. Most cars you can get away with it, but not on a Subaru. The all wheel drive system will cannot tolerate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Discount Tire will match (after tax and shipping calculations) Tire Rack prices. Look at some Kumho tires - good value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 Since Town Fair was closed today, though yesterday estimated it at roughly $100 per tire out the door, front end alignment free, that may be the best bet as I may need only two tires. Tire tread is 5/32, 5/32, 8/32 and 11/32. Four different tires. I need at least a front end alignment. I went to Good Year today and they wanted a lot more and no real discount on alignment. If I buy online tires I still have to worry about the other things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 You need 4 tires. No tires are exactly the same diameter, so regardless of tread depth. If there mismatched, they need replaced.. I wouldn't do Viva 3 tires, there over rated, cheapened Eagle RSA. I would do Douglas Xtra trac II if you can get them, or the Douglas All season which is the Xtra Trac replacement.. $9 lifetime rotate and balance, free.mounting. You can't beat a good TLE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) I've purchased tires from Tirerack, and they are great for performance tires, and most local shops honor them and will mount/balance (some shops are getting too picky and prices vary wildly, so call around or use their online locator which should list mounting costs; $7 a tire is BETTER deal than $20 a tire). I'm running Douglas tires from Walmart on my Subaru as I just needed inexpensive, all-season tires. Think all mounted and balanced was under $250. Tires had excellent traction in the snow, though the side walls aren't the strongest, to be careful not hit things or go into deep pot holes. STOP ADDING junk to the oil, gas, etc. You are most likely doing more harm and opening a can of worms making the car more prone ti future issues. Add full synthetic oils instead. Replace air, fuel, and oil filters at same time as oil change. I suggest draining the trans (if auto) and adding fresh fluid. Drain the power steering fluid reservoir and fill with fresh, superseded fluid. Your steering effort will greatly improve. Mine felt stiff after buying, and got worse within the 1st year, and I thought the rack was failing as steering effort was sticking at certain points. Replaced with fresh fluid and the change was basically immediate and steering effort went back to a smooth, effortless sensation that was better than when the car was purchased. Also suggest draining the rear diff fluid and topping off with fresh gear oil, as they can get contaminated over the years. If rear cross member is rotted, replace it. They can and will fail. New plugs and wires are recommended too. If your rack bellows are ripped, replace ASAP, and might as well replace tie rods at same time. Inspect CV boots too while at it. Doing all that will ensure a happier car in the long run with minimal issues. Keep adding snake oils and you get what you asked for. Edited March 21, 2016 by Bushwick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) Don't forget to replace the PCV also. It is mostly overlooked but will affect engine performance if not operating (clogged). I just changed the PCV in my 3.0L 115,000.00 probably the 1st time its been replaced, made quite a difference. I've got a 97 and a 96 that I'm parting out if you need anything. I wanted to add that after cleaning the PCV a couple of days ago, the next fill up showed it got 2 more MPG. Edited March 24, 2016 by screwbaru2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 I've purchased tires from Tirerack, and they are great for performance tires, and most local shops honor them and will mount/balance (some shops are getting too picky and prices vary wildly, so call around or use their online locator which should list mounting costs; $7 a tire is BETTER deal than $20 a tire). I'm running Douglas tires from Walmart on my Subaru as I just needed inexpensive, all-season tires. Think all mounted and balanced was under $250. Tires had excellent traction in the snow, though the side walls aren't the strongest, to be careful not hit things or go into deep pot holes. STOP ADDING junk to the oil, gas, etc. You are most likely doing more harm and opening a can of worms making the car more prone ti future issues. Add full synthetic oils instead. Replace air, fuel, and oil filters at same time as oil change. I suggest draining the trans (if auto) and adding fresh fluid. Drain the power steering fluid reservoir and fill with fresh, superseded fluid. Your steering effort will greatly improve. Mine felt stiff after buying, and got worse within the 1st year, and I thought the rack was failing as steering effort was sticking at certain points. Replaced with fresh fluid and the change was basically immediate and steering effort went back to a smooth, effortless sensation that was better than when the car was purchased. Also suggest draining the rear diff fluid and topping off with fresh gear oil, as they can get contaminated over the years. If rear cross member is rotted, replace it. They can and will fail. New plugs and wires are recommended too. If your rack bellows are ripped, replace ASAP, and might as well replace tie rods at same time. Inspect CV boots too while at it. Doing all that will ensure a happier car in the long run with minimal issues. Keep adding snake oils and you get what you asked for. Lucas Transmission restore product is highly regarded as is Sea Foam and Restore for the oil. Generally I try to follow the principle that if it is not broken don't fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Sea foam is alcohol, water and pale oil. Its a decarbonizer that should be added via vac line or thru the intake or carb. It was never designed for gas or oil tho the marketers put it on the can. Originally it was designed to decarbon outboard motors, hence seafoam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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