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I have an 04 Outback.  Cranks but doesn't start.  Seems I have no spark on coils 3 and 4.  1 and 2 are good.  Wondering if there is an open in the wiring.

Could use a wiring diagram if anyone has access to it.  Otherwise advise would be appreciated.

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160k, with 60k on a new motor, i guess.  I am looking to buy it.

 

The guy already swapped a used coil in there and the lack of spark doesn't change.

That is why I was thinking one of the 2 igniter control wires must be open.

But if Nipper is right and it should run on 2 cylinders, then I don't know.

The only code was ECT, and it was unplugged.  I plugged it in, but haven't checked the codes again.

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A friend of mine is looking into this, so I apologize if the info is a bit confused.  Also, we bought it from a Russian guy who didn't speak great english and may not have been particularly forthright.

They ordered a used motor from Japan, it seems.  Eagle Japan Motors.  Original is USDM.  New motor is JDM  He used the USDM harness because some of the plugs on the intake were different, and I think he swapped some over.

Test light on ignition control wires shows one grounded all the time and the other switched inconsistently then stops.

My friend is wondering if there is a difference in the cam or crank signals.


One thing that stuck out to me.  Is there no mass air flow sensor on these?

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No MAF, these are a MAP based engine this year unless it's a Cal Spec car (3 cats, 5 oxygen sensors and a three piece intake).

 

You need three things to run, spark, fuel and compression. These are notorious for the fuel pump to crap out which is why I mentioned the fuel pump. Even spark on two cylinders, it'll still run.

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Why would you change the cam sprocket, and with what sprocket? An ej22? 

 

I'd figure out why it's igniting the other 2 coils before doing anything else. If the coil is getting the signal to spark but isn't, than it's bad coil. If the coil is NOT getting the signal to spark, work you way back from the coil connector, all the way to the ecm until you find out why.

 

Seeing as how the PO swapped things around (used coil, different ECM, etc.) you can NOT assume he did this correctly, didn't swap a bad part in, left wires unplugged, forgot a ground, etc. Or maybe it has a damaged CPS sensor and is missing a tooth so the crank sensor isn't sending the signal as it can't fully detect crank position.

 

Really need to go over everything with a fine-tooth comb and see what jumps out. Changing sprockets is a good way to ruin the engine if the count is incorrect and the engine is interference. 

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The ignition coil gets signal intermittantly and then not at all on the 3/4 control wire.  moreso on 1/2.  checked continuity to ecm, which is all plugged in.
We did not realize originally that he had put an EJ20 into the car.  He gave us the EJ25 that was originally in it.
From everything I have read, you need to use the USDM driver cam sprocket and crank tone ring and intake for it to work.

I don't think the previous owner did this.  He thought he could just drop it in.  

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That is also an issue when doing an engine swap. The cam and crank sprockets need to match the intake and ECU you're running. These will also cause a fuel and spark issue. I was under the impression it was a running swap, not a swap that hasn't started.

 

Just an FYI, the head gaskets for the JDM EJ20 aren't available that I have found from any supplier in the US.

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