'96 legacy, sketchy or not?

[Khai]

Looking at this cheap wagon to buy hoping that is gets me and a buddy around reliably.

 

http://neworleans.craigslist.org/cto/5514270089.html

 

For you guys that are more experienced than me in subarus (I am a mini owner but I kind of co-own a '97 impreza wagon), buying used cars, and just knowing cars in general, I ask if this listing looks like trouble or not. Does the price seem fair? Or too cheap? And what are my odds of having to spend the same amount I did buying it to replace a head gasket, lol. I would just like some advise, thanks to anyone that helps!

[Stevo F]

Car looks to be in decent shape. '96 Outbacks were known for headgasket issues. If the owner is correct that the engine is an EJ253, then it must have been swapped from a 2004 or so vintage Subaru, and would be less likely to have headgasket problems, but still might. In comparison, the engine on your '97 Impreza is an EJ22, which is on of the best Subaru engines ever built. 

 

If you are looking for a 90's vintage Subaru, I'l look at an Impreza, or Legacy L as these have the EJ22 engine which should go 300K+  if maintained.

[Khai]

Yes I noticed that was wierd... But I definitely heard that the 2.5s were more known for HG issues. And you are right that ej22 really just keeps going, pretty sure it has over 200k on it and still goes like a champ besides a little tick when it's warm at idle. Is there anything that is a dead giveaway for the HG issues on the ej253 that is a dead giveaway? Or can it be fairly elusive?

[Stevo F]

If it is in fact an EJ253 (I would verify this with the seller) then it was most likely to have an external oil leak from the headgaskets, which you could live with for a while and plan on whne to repair it. If it's the original EJ25D engine, the headgaskets fail between the combustion chamber and the water jackets resulting in overheating and possible additional engine damage (these have a more sudden/ catastrphic failure than the later EJ251/ EJ253 engines). 

 

As for chcking for the overheating issue, check for bubbles and./ or oily deposits in the coolant overflow tank.

[Numbchux]

I'd bet money that's the original EJ25D. It's definitely a phase one intake manifold, which does not bolt onto the phase 2 heads. And that timing cover sure looks DOHC to me.

 

Also, I'd bet money that's a '97, as it has the hood scoop, and separate door lock switch neither of which were native to a '96. Which should mean a solid-lifter EJ25D, where the '96 had HLAs and required higher octane.

 

 

 

IF it is indeed an EJ253, somehow. The oil loss he mentions is almost definitely head gaskets (they typically leak externally). But the EJ25Ds almost exclusively blow catastrophically internally, and overheat. So if you go look at it, take it for a drive, for like 20 minutes, up to highway speeds.

 

 

It's relatively high-mileage, and obviously ridden hard (although I like that he says he checked the oil with every fuel fill....). Of course, it is cheap.

[Khai]

So it seems like I should hope you're right numbchux, because since the original engine's HG fails hard when it fails, at least I can be more sure that it isn't broken if it runs fine and looks fine. I will question him about all of this.

[Khai]

It seems like the compressor and condenser are removed, does anyone know why that might be?

[ccrinc]

All things considered (and the fact that its in a usually rusty area), it looks like a righteous buy to me. 

 

Face it, any time you buy a 20 year old car with high mileage, you are going to have to expect to fix something.  Overall, this looks pretty well cared for.  The only way you're going to know is to go look at it and drive it.   Anything you get from anyone here means nothing: you have to go check it out in person.

 

Emily

[Twitch de la Brat]

It's possible they pulled the compressor and condenser because the AC stopped working, or an accident of some sort broke the seal and the system evacuated itself, so they pulled it to prevent damage.

But my money is riding on "because racecar".

 

Twitch

[Khai]

Let's hope that the ac works but hey I'd replace a compressor and condenser happily rather than anything bigger. And I do plan on taking a good look and drive.

[Bushwick]

PASS.

 

Um.... am I the only one that noticed the car was mid-air in this image: 

 

 

and that's on pavement? To get that type of air on pavement, you'd have to be MOVING at 60+ and hitting something like a raised train track crossing or a very small bridge, and I seriously doubt they got that perfect still shot in one take, unless they grabbed a still frame from a video.

 

PASS unless you want a parts cars that probably pulls badly and shakes. Also, those pics are NOT recent. Some have stickers on back windows, some don't. Some have silver rims, the airborne shot doesn't. The cleanest pic appears to be what it looked like when that person bought it, which is shady and deceiving as they are anachronistic.   

Edited March 30, 2016 by Bushwick

[Khai]

He says it was swapped to an EJ25D after the original head gasket blew. He says the previous owner "replaced the short block and swapped the head gaskets with steel ones of an sti"

[Twitch de la Brat]

He says it was swapped to an EJ25D after the original head gasket blew. He says the previous owner "replaced the short block and swapped the head gaskets with steel ones of an sti"

 

RUN. That right there screams home ricer hack job, or at minimum he doesn't know what he's talking about.

So as Bushwick said, pass.

 

Twitch

[Khai]

I was starting to get the same idea lol, I don't trust just anyone to do that kind of work. Thanks a lot guys.

[Bushwick]

I think the fact it was being jumped and was over a foot off the ground (that's not photoshopped) should scare you right off the bat. That's extremely hard on a unibody that doesn't have a cage. Looks as if this person beat the hell out that car. Some of their description sounds flaky as well. 

 

You can definitely find better. I think most of the people saying "It's a deal" were glancing at the pics of what the car looked like when the seller bought it.

[Khai]

I missed a really good deal on a 98 impreza outback wagon, manual 140k miles for 1500, someone came and bought it an hour before I did and flipped it for 2k, still upset about that.

[Fairtax4me]

That first picture sold it for me. Keep far away from that one unless you're looking for a project car to rebuild.

Its a beater, as in, he's beat it like a redheaded step-child.

[Numbchux]

Maybe the market is a little easier in the rest of the world. But a rustier, crappier version of that car, without a picture of it being jumped, would sell for 3 or 4 times that much up here, EASY.

 

So yea, it's had a rough life, but seems to me it's priced accordingly. No, you're probably not going to hop in it, and get another 100k miles with only oil changes....but you can't expect that on any 200k mile car.

Edited March 31, 2016 by Numbchux

[idosubaru]

that's a nice price tag but otherwise looks risky.

 

have $$$ cash on hand, look for any 1998 and earlier EJ22 (impreza, legacy, 96 MT outback), and IMMEDIATELY make offers to come get the car the minute you see the listing. offer less if it's not a smoking deal.

when they say "someone is coming to look at it later" i respond with "I have cash in my hand, DMV paper work printed, and can tow/drive it away right now".

 

thing is - the EJ22's usually come in lesser valued cars so they're cheaper AND more reliable. i'd avoid 90's EJ25's unless i have a very compelling reason not too - which rarely happens on really cheap ones (unless they need a motor or something)

 

if you wait (to schedule, test drive, ask questions, get cash out of the bank) - you miss the good deals to people that know how to get a deal.

 

you want reliable - pay particular attention to the PERSON, not the car. retired, doctor, career person with a busy family life, or moving, or starting residency school, or moving to a city and going carless. these types of people are much more concerned with liability than some desperate person needing to make a buck off their car. they'd trade it in, donate it to charity, or sell it with big cautions signs "needs work" before assuming any liability or makign someone mad.

 

professionals/career/family types respond well when you talk cash, paper work, DMV, taking/towing the car, taxes up front too - the perception that you know what you're doing implies this will be easy, you've done it before, and you might not be a shady craigslist tire kicker desperate for money because of poor financial/life decisions and therefore needing a cheap car.

 

takes a little time but with patience and a good game plan you can end up in a cheap Subaru that makes 100,000 miles rather easily.

Edited March 31, 2016 by grossgary

[idosubaru]

another option is to buy a blown EJ25 and swap in an EJ22.  another great option. 

 

get something like this for $300: 

http://neworleans.craigslist.org/pts/5482143889.html

 

and spend $1,000 on an EJ22 with new timing belts and you're off to about the most reliable $1,300 25 year old car you can get. 

 

www.car-part.com for engines. 

 

and the larger you can expand your buying market - the better chance at a good deal you'll have.  it's worth the effort sometimes to go a couple hundred miles for the right deal.  but it's best to have some people/car skills to assess the success rate before going that far.

[Khai]

I would do something like that if my housing situation allowed me to and I had the right equipment. Maybe by the time I go through the engine of the car I do purchase, I can swap a new one in at a new house.

[idosubaru]

i meant pay someone else to do it.

$400 EJ22 and $400 to install it - and $300 for the car and you can end up right around the same price of the one you're looking at but have some more control over it and end up with a far better, less risky engine.

 

although you're probably limited in engine selection down south.

www.car-part.com

 

1995 legacy or impreza EJ22 from an automatic is ideal

any EJ22 1996 - 1998 is also a possible candidate

Edited March 31, 2016 by grossgary

[Bushwick]

Maybe the market is a little easier in the rest of the world. But a rustier, crappier version of that car, without a picture of it being jumped, would sell for 3 or 4 times that much up here, EASY.

 

So yea, it's had a rough life, but seems to me it's priced accordingly. No, you're probably not going to hop in it, and get another 100k miles with only oil changes....but you can't expect that on any 200k mile car.

 

My 95' Legacy L Wagon w/ EJ22 was being sold for $1k IIRC and I talked the guy down to $850. It needed the rear crossmember replaced and new brake line plus obligatory maintenance, but otherwise started right up and everything worked and nearly 2+ years later, still does. It's picked up some rust and the body isn't the prettiest, but I wouldn't hesitate to drive it cross country.

 

You seriously telling me that's worth $3500-$4000? I looked at Houston Craigslist and you can find 98'-02' Subaru w/o rust for under $2500.

[matt167]

If the body is as clean as it looks, theres a dealer 30 miles from me that will buy that, fix it and stick a $4,500k sticker on it, and sell it in a week or so... He had a 1998 Impreza outback I wanted. 98k miles, 5spd.. $4,900 and it sold QUICK.. He sells a lot of Subaru's, importing them from PA and NJ, to his dealership here in NY... I think in any snow/ salt state theres a big demand for clean Subaru's with a small supply

[dp213]

Wow, I must agree with some above. The first pic says, run away fast. I can't believe he would out that pic on the add and expect to get more than about $600 for it. Me personally wouldn't even pay that for it.

 

Just my opinion though.

 

Find a 2.2 and have fun driving.