firehawk618 Posted April 2, 2016 Share Posted April 2, 2016 Welp, got the flywheel ground and EJ22 bolted in tonight.Tomorrow will be installing everything else on the engine + wiring.I should have it able to fire up by Sunday evening.I will still need to weld together some exhaust, figure out the top mount thing and radiator hoses.I can't wait to finish this so I can concentrate on wheels / lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 2, 2016 Author Share Posted April 2, 2016 A few pictures. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 2, 2016 Author Share Posted April 2, 2016 (edited) I might add. Since I had the engine out I made the decision to add power steering.I am certain I will get sick of the armstrong steering once I am out wheeling in the mountains with it.Also since I sort of need a PS pump on this engine to be able to tension the belt it made my decision easier. Also, if anyone cares to know. I had to do zero grinding on the subframe for the mounts to fit.My slots were already oval shaped. The mounts on the EJ22 had no centering pins either.It literally dropped right in! Edited April 2, 2016 by firehawk618 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 Engine's 100% bolted in. PS lines bent / twisted to fit. Radiator's in. Wiring harness stuck through firewall.Tomorrow = plug things in and run temporary jumper wires to see if it fires up and see how the engine sounds.Left to do= adapt radiator hoses, make wiring permanent and build exhaust. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Woohoo! I really need to get my home projects done so I can get my XT GL10 converted. I've been sitting on the whole package for a few years now. You'll love the new found power. Congrats! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 Woohoo! I really need to get my home projects done so I can get my XT GL10 converted. I've been sitting on the whole package for a few years now. You'll love the new found power. Congrats! Thanks. Welp, got it to fire up this afternoon! It was actually a bit simpler than I expected. I would like to remove the EA82 SPFI harness from the dash / headlight harness in tact *if that's even possible and it will eliminate a ton of wires under the dash as a bonus. It moved under it's own power! To do: Finalize wiring, figure out radiator hoses, weld up some exhaust, get my pitch mount hooked up, delete all smog crap off the EJ............ and probably a bunch more I am forgetting. My goal is to be 100% done within two weeks. I will only have time to work on this after work and weekends at this point. Once 100% done onto the lift / tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 And a quick video because threads are better with videos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) For anyone that is interested. ECU I used is 1995 Legacy. OBDii from an auto.Pin #50 had no wire in it. This wire when grounded tells the ECU that the car is an auto. It's worth grounding for a couple reasons. #1 it will stop looking for the MAP sensor. Only auto cars got the MAP sensor and I chose not to wire one in since the MT cars didn't use one. #2 It will stop checking the EGR since only the auto cars had EGR. By grounding this wire I am able to delete both items and NOT trigger a constant CEL!I verified this in fact works. I first plugged my scanner in and went to monitor the various sensors when the engine was running. It was reporting no reading for the MAP sensor.I then shut the car off, disconnected the ECU and put a pin in #50 and grounded it. I then reconnected everything and started the car. Now when I go to look at the sensors live the MAP doesn't even show up on the list as an option any more.Today: Got wiring cleaned up a ton. Taped up ready to have a sheath put over them.I only need to shorten the wires that goto the OBDii plug and a couple other random ones. That will really clean it up. I will be mounting it all behind the glove box or above it depending on how much room I find up there.Tomorrow: Finalize wiring from ECU to left side of dash *think power, start signal, tach, speed sensor, check engine light, neutral switch. Also need to put together a relay to drive the electric fan and simply bypass the thermo switch that's in the radiator.Right now those wires are simply draped across the shifter. I wanted to hear it run before making anything too finalized.After that's done i'll either start building exhaust or start deleting the SPFI harness. Edited April 5, 2016 by firehawk618 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Sounds good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Does anyone in the Everett area have a couple dual port EJ exhaust flanges they could part with for a small price?I just need the flanges. If there's pipe on them that's fine too.I plan on stacking two flanges on each side to clear the subframe.It appears that the stock EJ flange/pipe setup will hit my subframe but a second flange welded on to lower it a touch should work.I read somewhere that a guy did just that for the same reason and it worked for him but I cannot find that post again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Let me know how removing the wiring goes. I want to get some of the extra wires out of mine as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 It was a pita. Pull whole engine harness, take it all apart, put back together. I still ended.up cutting a few wires toward the end of the delete but I am glad I removed it all. It's a lot cleaner under the dash now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 I just replaced my dual port exhaust with a single port uel header, I can cut my old flanges off and send them your way if you want? I also wanted to ask and or advise you on what motor mounts you are going to use. Keep up the good work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Hmm that's frustrating that it was so much of a hassle. I'm thinking about cutting all the wires I don't need under the fender and just pulling them through. Not sure if this will work but it should tidy things up at least a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 I just replaced my dual port exhaust with a single port uel header, I can cut my old flanges off and send them your way if you want? I also wanted to ask and or advise you on what motor mounts you are going to use. Keep up the good work! If you could do that I would be very grateful. I can paypal you some $$ to cover the shipping / hassle on your end. Can you get them out next week some time? I plan on doing something about the exhaust and getting the car buttoned up the weekend of 4/23. PM or email me at firehawk618@gmail.com for paypal / address info. Thank you ! Right now I am just using the EJ mounts that came on the engine. They're rectangular / square shaped if I remember correctly. There was no centering nub to be ground off that was mentioned on some other threads. I didn't even have to do any grinding on my subframe. It dropped right in. Hmm that's frustrating that it was so much of a hassle. I'm thinking about cutting all the wires I don't need under the fender and just pulling them through. Not sure if this will work but it should tidy things up at least a little. They MIGHT pull out but it's going to be a pain. Be careful. Several of the wires are spliced together mid harness. It's really not all that hard to pull the whole harness out of the car. Removing the bumper / fender is 2/3 of the battle. Laying it all out on a garage floor / driveway and taking your time stripping / re-taping it all might be worth it in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ennbenn72 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) Just pulled the EJ22 out of a 95 legacy today to drop into my 89 coupe. Do you have any particular advice on the wiring? What colors should I keep from either car? Edit:spelling Edited April 13, 2016 by ennbenn72 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) Just pulled the EJ22 out of a 95 legacy today to drop into my 89 coupe. Do you have any particular advice on the wiring? What colors should I keep from either car? Edit:spelling Did you pull the entire harness? I had to pull the whole dash, heater box, everything out to get the harness 100% in tact. I recommend pulling a complete harness out of the EJ22 donor. First thing I did after I removed it was print a diagram. I sat at the ECU connector and removed any pin that I wasn't using. After that I sat down in the garage, spread the harness out. Removed all tape / ducting. I then removed any wire that didn't goto the ECU, Main relay or Fuel pump relay. It's a giant mess. Go slow and you can get through it. Any wire that goes to a splice that I wasn't using got trimmed right at the splice. After that I knocked out a 3" hole in my passenger firewall *no ac in my car. I fed the harness from the interior into the engine compartment. I then laid everything out where it needed to plug in. Taped it up, wrapped it up. ECU is stuffed above the heater box on my car. I kept the OBDii plug for diagnostics + I am going to try an ultragauge on it so I can have engine temp and fuel trims on display. I also picked up a 1996 ECU incase the 1995 isn't fully compatible with the ultraguage. **WARNING: The 1996 ECU physically plugs in place of a 1995 but the pinout is 100% wrong. You MUST repin the connector if wanting to swap from 1995 to 1996 ECU's. Oh yeah, was the Legacy a stick or auto? It makes a difference and I can save you some hassel. Edited April 13, 2016 by firehawk618 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) I figured I'd have to pull the whole dash to get the whole EA harness out and I don't want to do that. I'll take another look. Edited April 13, 2016 by jread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ennbenn72 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Great info! The donor car I have is a standard 5spd. I plan on using almost the entire powertrain. Thanks! --Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 I figured I'd have to pull the whole dash to get the whole EA harness out and I don't want to do that. I'll take another look. You don't have to pull the whole dash to get the EA engine harness out. It all unplugs under the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 Great info! The donor car I have is a standard 5spd. I plan on using almost the entire powertrain. Thanks! --Nathan Since it's a 5 speed you don't have to worry about adding / grounding a pin on the ECU to tell it to ignore the EGR, MAP and a few other sensors. It's already built into the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 (edited) Put some hours in this weekend.Got an exhaust scabbed together. Good enough for now.Got radiator hoses scabbed together.Filled her up and let her run a while.Left to do:Finish wrapping / fastening the headlight / front harness.Install the original fan + secondary fan in front of radiator. I will be tying these into the ECU's fan output vs the stock thermo switch. I will also be adding a bypass switch so I can run the fans when putting around in the mud.Wire up the alternator. I will tie it in so the stock charge light works as it should.Seal up the hole I made in the firewall + seal up the 2 grommets I took apart on the left side of the car.I'm trying to decide if I will cut the cluster apart and delete the worthless oil / temp gauges and fabricate something in their place or not.Note: I purchased an ultragauge. My intention was to use it as a temp gauge. Any other parameter it happens to display with this 1995 ECU is a bonus. With a tiny bit of fiddling it seems to work fine. Time will tell how reliable it is. I'm trying to avoid running aftermarket gauges for now because Subaru makes it fun to tie into the oil pressure / coolant. Not super hard but definitely not as simple as picking up a cheap triple gauge and hooking it up with the included adapters.It's been really hard for me not to just throw the wiring harness on top of the engine and go for a quick drive. I really want to feel the difference! To hell with it, I might just do it anyhow after I charge the battery back up!EDIT: Ok yeah went around the block. Such a difference. Edited April 17, 2016 by firehawk618 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Following. This will be my next step if my EA81 ever dies. Although I just ordered a MSD 6AL ignition system for it, so I would think that will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 How long did it take you to sort out the 2 harnesses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 How long did it take you to sort out the 2 harnesses? Well the EJ22 harness I gutted it and had ready to lay in the car in roughly 3 hours. I am very good at schematics and wiring though. This doesn't include any wrapping of the harness. Just rough lay out on the ground with some zip ties to keep bundles separated. The EA82 ECU harness removal only takes me about 45 mins / 1 hr. Pulling the fender and bumper take the longest for me. After it was out I spent about an hour removing all the tape and deleting all the ECU wiring from it. EA82 part went pretty quick because I've already had it out once *swapped out 86 carb harness for full 88 SPFI* so I knew exactly what I was in for this time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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