Motor died while driving, cranks but won't start

[Tall Bald and Ugly]

Hey Folks,

I have an '01 Legacy L model 2.5l 5 speed manual with 145,000 miles on it and it quit on me while driving home last week. A month ago I changed the fuel filter and the fuel in the OLD filter was clean. So I replaced the plugs(NGK gapped to .040,) and wires(Import Direct) 3 weeks ago and it was running strong. Good fuel mileage,too. I had 200 miles on a fresh tank of fuel(been driving on it for three days) when it quit. Okay, simple stuff; checked timing belt, seems fine. Checked for spark at the coil pack, all four terminals good. Checked the new fuel filter(just in case) clean and clear. Put a scanner on it and got a knock sensor code. Swapped it out and still no go. I put a multimeter on the coil, got some anomalous readings(cheap multimeter), so I swapped the coil pack out for a new one,jic. Still no go. I've got a half tank of gas still and I can here the fuel pump pressurize the system when the key is on.

This thing cranks strong, it just won't start. I be befaffled on this one. Help?

[DaveT]

try a 1-2 second shot of carb cleaner into the throttle body, then try cranking.  If it fires momentarily, spark, timing, etc are ok.

 

If the timing belt is original, it is overdue for replacement, but this is another topic.

[Bushwick]

^ Like Dave said. You need to spray the starting fluid ahead of the air filter. When I last did mine, I just unclipped the air filter box and lifted the upper portion slightly, sprayed in the tube, then cranked.

 

Also, my OEM fuel pump failed but it's actual motor was still good. It spun up in the car but no matter how many times I tried priming, it wouldn't fire, and once it was pulled, I double-checked it with a 12v battery and motor sounded OK, so I suspect something came apart internally. Installed a new pump, and it fired right up.

[1 Lucky Texan]

yeah, possible cap/o=ring problem

[Tall Bald and Ugly]

Wow! Thanks for the new direction to look in. I will be working on it (again) today and I'll let y'all know what I find. Thanks again. Peace!

[1 Lucky Texan]

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

[AdventureSubaru]

Poor mans testing will send you in the right direction. The fuel part has been mentioned.

 

If that doesn't do it, get a spark plug and pull a plug wire. Insert the spark plug in the plug wire and hold the side of the plug against something metal. have a friend crank the motor and look for spark. (Dim/dark light is best for visibility.)

 

Crank with no start = no fuel/no spark/ timing off.

 

If that's the original set it's long overdue and may have stretched and jumped a tooth. If spark/fuel doesn't turn up the issue I'd pull the timing covers and check timing. If it's off, replace before you reset. If it skips a tooth or two you may have dodged a bullet and not have any valve damage. If it goes all the way, valve damage becomes very likely.

[idosubaru]

if you're running into blocks let's be really clear on there tests that only take minutes to perform?

 

1. you have spark at all 4 cylinders (not just 1 or 2)?

2. pull the fuel line in the engine bay and crank - does gas pour out?

3. did you rotate the timing belt while looking at it (more than just a visual check with one side cover removed?)?

4. did your knock sensor code go away when it was replaced?

Edited April 17, 2016 by grossgary

[Bushwick]

I wouldn't "hold" a plug during a crank test. I'd actually go one step further and suggest NEVER touching the plug wires or even the coil when engine is running or even cranking unless you have heavy duty rubber gloves as the current can be lethal. Plug wires can also be faulty and allow random arcs to exit the wire in random spots. If you've ever heard anyone say "spritz water on the plug wires at night to see if it's arcing" this would be a situation where you would NOT want to touch the wires. Battery acid for example will eat small holes through the silicone cover and can cause the arcing. Be safe!

Edited April 18, 2016 by Bushwick

[Tall Bald and Ugly]

One Lucky Texan threw me a thread on a fuel pump issue between the metal cap and the plastic pump body separate and the o-ring spits out under pressure. This happens because the transition between the metal cap and the tangs that clamp on the plastic start to split thereby losing clamping ability.

What I did was slide a hose clamp down over the metal and plastic pump body. Then I tucked the o-ring (gently) back into place and clamped a wide jaw woodworking clamp on the two pieces and squeezed them together again. When they looke right, I slid the hose clamp up over the three tangs and tightened until the tangs were gripping the molde plastic extrusions again. Released the woodclamp,reinstalled the pump and she fired up after the lines were primed. I don't know how long this fix will last, but I'm rolling for now.

Muchos Gracias to One Lucky Texan and all who chimed in with things to check on. I am really grateful to you all.

peace

[idosubaru]

i put a hose clamp around a broken tab fuel pump cap on a 2003 Outback once.  drove it about 300 miles like that and the oring pushed out again but car was home then and i swapped in another pump.

 

if you pull the fuel hose in the engine bay it's a quick test for that cap - the fuel will just trickle out/not come out at all when you turn the key - it'll obviously not be enough to run a car.  i diagnose them in like 4 minutes that way.  pull line, crank car .

[AdventureSubaru]

glad to hear it. never heard back on if the timing belt was original. If it is, make that a priority. A $200 gates kit and 2hrs wrenching are time and money well spent. If it is original, it WILL fail soon and you'll be looking at a valve job or motor replacement to put it back on the road.

 

If it was replaced at the proper interval, you've got 1000s of miles left.

 

Glad to hear it's back on the road!