SubaruLUV Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 (edited) My 2007 Forester vibrates when accelerating. This only happens when accelerating when at about 2000 rpm. Once I let off the gas pedal a little it is fine. Tires were rotated and balanced. I've read on this thread that possibilities could be CV joint, bad axle, torque converter. Any thoughts before I take into a mechanic? Thanks Edited April 23, 2016 by SubaruLUV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 I'd take it to Subaru for an actual diagnosis as there's a 99.9999% they'll accurately tell you what's wrong. Go to a hole in the wall or small shop, and they might replace things randomly, charging $$$ for parts that might not actually be the issue, but padding their bill just the same. It could be anything from a failing u-joint to bad bearing. Anything from here would be purely guessing, and possibly having you chase your tail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golucky66 Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 While I don't always agree with saying that the dealer's know best, it is generally true. That's probably your best guess. My monies on a U-joint that's starting to fail, but as everyone else here, a guess. Good luck with it though, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Just for jollies, check all the lug nuts for tightness. U-joints last a long time before failing. The only u-joint failure I had happened right at 300K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 While I don't always agree with saying that the dealer's know best, it is generally true. That's probably your best guess. My monies on a U-joint that's starting to fail, but as everyone else here, a guess. Good luck with it though, I've had bad experiences with smaller mechanics. Had one hose me for nearly $1k because he kept replacing things blindly then saying car was OK as they couldn't find a section of wire off the CPS sensor that had been pinched by the timing cover and was rubbing on the crank pulley, causing random misfires and no-starts. They took advantage of the fact I was gone for weeks at a time due to a job that forced a bunch of traveling at the time, and had the car on/off for near 3 months. They'd replace a cam sensor, say car quit acting up, and I'd get 2 blocks from their shop after the "repair" only to have it stumble. Took it back, and they dragged feet and would drive the thing personally home (how it wasn't acting up for them was a mystery). Finally got mad and had it towed to Ford and they found the issue within 3 hours. I took that shop to civil court as they lied about fixing it and the female judge was a **** that treated me like dirt for representing myself and didn't even know what a spark plug was (I lost). Anyways, that was a very painful and stressful lesson which I openly share to save someone else from the possibility of being hosed. I could afford it then, but shouldn't have had to. While most dealerships are pricey, that at least know their cars and should be a safe bet to at least correctly diagnose an issue. Not all mechanics are the same caliber. If talking simple repairs like tie rods, most can do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Just for jollies, check all the lug nuts for tightness. U-joints last a long time before failing. The only u-joint failure I had happened right at 300K miles. Believe it or not, if lug nuts are loose, you'll never feel that. You won't find out until it drops a wheel I don't know if it's vibrations from the road, or centrifugal force, but snug lug nuts will completely unthread themselves (all 4 or 5 can do this) w/o even damaging the threads. It's actually a rather spooky phenomenon and even more disturbing is the fact you won't be able to feel anything at the wheel. Kinda surprised they don't force opposite hand threading of wheel rotation as that might prevent it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruLUV Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Thanks will try Subaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Do you get the same vibration if you put the transmission in a different gear? Does it worsen with heavy acceleration? Believe it or not, if lug nuts are loose, you'll never feel that. You won't find out until it drops a wheel I don't know if it's vibrations from the road, or centrifugal force, but snug lug nuts will completely unthread themselves (all 4 or 5 can do this) w/o even damaging the threads. It's actually a rather spooky phenomenon and even more disturbing is the fact you won't be able to feel anything at the wheel. Kinda surprised they don't force opposite hand threading of wheel rotation as that might prevent it. I've often wondered how people can ride around with loose lug nuts and not notice if. I've had lug nuts work loose before and even just a little loose will cause one heck of a shake, especially if you try to go around a curve. I put front brake pads on a car once years ago and it started raining so I put the wheels back on and put my tools away quickly and waited out the rain. Took it out for a spin afterward and made it about half a block from the house and knew something was just wrong because the front end of the car was wobbling and making an awful rattle sound. In my haste to clean up I forgot to torque the lug nuts on one wheel. One thing that will keep lug nuts from totally falling off is a bit of antiseize on the lug stud. It gets kinda gummy after a while and if a nut works loose it won't let it spin off. Don't put antiseize on the cone seat of the lug nut, or on the cone seat of the wheel though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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