Yet another transfer clutch question

[Banjo1928]

I know this has topic been done to death so no need to go too deep into it as there is a lot of good info on this in several threads.  I have a 2012 Subaru Outback and the transfer clutch is binding during slow turns both forward and reverse but reverse is more noticeable for some reason.  If all wheel drive is disabled the binding goes away.  So from what I have read here, probably not the fluid or the clutches but likely it is the solenoid (Duty C Failure).  If I do this myself (can I do it myself?) on a 2012, can I refill the case or is it part of that whole sealed transmission deal?  I’m pretty handy in an old school sort of a way, pulled motors and transmissions rebuilt many do my own clutch jobs on manuals.  But the 2012 has so many whistles and bells it scares me or at least makes me nervous.  Plus it's the wife's car and she heard the service rep say the transmission was not serviced at 105,000 miles so I need to dig myself out of this.

 

The car has 125,000 miles on it and I have to admit here in front of everyone yes it's true I had not serviced the transmission or any of its systems she put way more miles on it than I thought possible.  The dealer said, "ah there’s your trouble you didn’t do the 105,000 mile transmission service so at 125,000 it's probably toast so you caused all of this and it will be $2,000 worst case, have a nice day." Maybe I did cause it.

 

I’m hoping I can buy the part and put it in myself.  I have access to a lift.  Any input on this would be much appreciated.

[wtdash]

Hi,

First -Find out if it's sealed or not, and Get it Serviced. Do it yourself or a  shop. IT MAY just be worn fluid. 

 

I've been 'corrected' on this b4 but I think if the FWD fuse 'fixes it' (eliminates the TB) that means it's 'mechanical' and the clutches are the issues; if the fuse has no effect than it's 'electrical' and the Duty C IS the problem as it's not being turned On/Off??

[1 Lucky Texan]

um - this is trite but needs to be asked; all 4 tires the same brand/model/size and very near each other in wear-level?

[Banjo1928]

Yes, good point, all tires are the same brand and have nearly identical wear.  That is the two on the front may have just a slight bit more tread than the two on the rear. I don't think there is enough difference to be a problem. 

[1 Lucky Texan]

there's a slight possibility the problem is a u-joint or carrier bearing. Slight because all those parts still turn when AWD is dsabled - but, there's less force on them.

 

Also, it may be worth trying an additive like Trans X. Just on the off-chance it saves a major repair.

[Banjo1928]

While I'm figuring this out can I pull the AWD fuse and drive it in front wheel drive only so I'm not binding the transfer clutch?

[1 Lucky Texan]

many people drive their binding cars in FWD mode.

 

not sure on something as new as 2012, but our 03 needs a spare fuse (any size) placed INTO an empty slot labeled FWD to disable AWD.

[Banjo1928]

I just watched a couple of videos on it. I shall check but it looks like all of them have an empty slot marked FWD where you place a spare fuse and that does it so hopefully my 2012 is like that.  Thanks for the reply.

[wtdash]

I'm confused.....in your 1st Post: " If all wheel drive is disabled the binding goes away"

 

How did you disable it? That's what the FWD fuse does (on the older Subies @ least).

 

Td

[Banjo1928]

Sorry, not very clear, when we first felt it binding my wife had taken it to a Subaru mechanic and he had written down that it binds in forward and reverse but does not with AWD disabled. That was before I'd read anything on it or had even heard of putting the fuse in the FWD slot. I thought from what he had written that he'd pulled an AWD fuse to disable it. In truth I don't know exactly what he did. He was not particularly helpful. He just said $1,995 would fix it.  Another dealer told me 90% of cars with this problem are fixed by a fluid change and others have recommended I do that so I think I will take it in and have that done first.  I'm new to the CVT and the idea of sealed transmissions that can't be checked or filled by the owner.

[Banjo1928]

Thought I would update this thread even though it has been a while.

 

Shortly after I took it in to the dealer the noise and binding got worse so I took it back and had the dealer and just said fix it. They replaced $1,650.00 worth of parts in the transfer case.  That was in May of 2016.  It ran great until August 2016 just about 90 days when it started doing the same thing again. This is with all new parts and brand new clean fluid

 

I took it back to the dealer and the mechanic who did the work the first time said no, he couldn't hear anything and it wasn't binding it was fine. So we lived with it.  Then in December it seemed to get worse so we took it back in.  This time a different mechanic drove it and said "Damn man I can feel that, its the transfer clutch and sounds like its frozen.  Don't worry the work we did is still under warranty just drop it off Friday morning and come back Friday at 4:30 to pick it up."

 

Friday at 4:30 the mechanic said I can't figure this out I don't know what's going on the transfer clutch and I quote "won't engage".  Comeback Saturday afternoon.  Saturday afternoon they said a different guy would have to look at it Monday.  Monday at 4:30 they called and left a message "we need to talk to you about your Outback."  I call them they say "Ah yeah, it needs a whole new transmission, everything and we don't work on 'em, nobody works on 'em we just replace 'em if they fail and yours has failed."

 

How much?

 

Oh, $8,000 for a new one with a one year warranty or $7,100 for a rebuilt one with a three year warranty.

 

I thought they couldn't be rebuilt?

 

Oh well Subaru can't rebuild them but someone can.

 

Okay

 

But they are both back ordered the new and the rebuilt one so not sure how long it will take to get one in.

 

Can I still drive it?

 

For a while I guess.

 

So we took it home

 

It has not made a noise or had a binding issue since they looked at it and said no hope you need a new tranny.

Is it just me or is this a big deal like the burning too much oil thing are the CVTs having trouble or did my not changing the oil for 20,000 miles past 105,000 miles destroy it?

Any chance Subaru of America will have mercy and help a guy out as I'm sure it is just a matter of time before it starts acting up again?

It seems like they can't figure the problem out so their solution is just to replace everything.  It seems insane to put EIGHT THOUSAND DOLLARS into a transmission that the manufacture will only warrant for a year. Why would a rebuild have a longer warranty than a new one off the shelf?

Any thoughts or comments would be much appreciated.

[wtdash]

Hi,

My knee-jerk answer is 'get rid of it' (preferably not selling to an unsuspecting private party) and be done w/it.

 

Rebuilt is probably by a 3rd-party that knows how to fix Subaru's mistake. I didn't re-read this whole post and don't recall the specifics, but is there another dealer OR trans shop in GA that can give you another estimate?

 

Did you check Car-part.com to see what the USED trans are selling for- if you can install it yourself?

 

I wouldn't expect any help from SOA @ this point...esp. if you missed maintenance....unless there's an existing TSB/Recall on these, but that should've come up @ the last repair. 

 

Not much help....hopefully someone else has  better info.

 

Td

[Banjo1928]

Everything helps and I will check around I have heard others comment on the 8k for a transmission so at least on a new one that seems to be what they are.