how much does changing a strut change alignment

[whynot]

So how much does changing the strut change the alignment? I need struts and mounts, I am thinking about getting them from a pick n pull? How much will my alignment change?

 

Is this even a good idea? 

 

Thanks

 

[Bushwick]

It'll completely change alignment, including in the rear.

 

One trick is before tearing yours apart, is to drill 2 small 1/16" holes (or next size up) in the strut top near the factory holes through the top and strut tower. This way when reassembling, you can drop a couple nails in or even pop rivets and it's at least in the same spot assuming the lower bolt holes through the tube cover haven't shifted slightly. If you decide to drill through the strut tower, you MUST treat the exposed metal with either anti-seize, grease, etc. as it can over time rust out into a larger hole.

 

Unless you have junk tires getting ready to be replaced, it's really not worth being so cheap you'll forgo a $65 alignment as I've had tires round off quicker than I could catch them- like in 50-100 miles noticeable rounding had occurred after just doing tie rods once and they were in the same spot as before. 

 

Rears, if squatting when last alignment was done, will probably be off as well. You'll most likely get inner tire wear.

Edited May 13, 2016 by Bushwick

[1 Lucky Texan]

get new KYB - I just don't think junkyard struts would be much better than the ones you have - I suppose if you found some with less than 50-75K miles, maybe.....

 

you can scribe the position of the adjustment bolt and get camber back close enough.

 

do a search - you can find DIY stuff here and over at subaruoutback.org , as well as some youtube videos (users ericthecarguy and briansmobile often have Subaru videos that are good).

 

check parts prices at Amazon, RockAuto, etc.

Edited May 13, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[heartless]

i would not waste time with junkyard struts either (done it & ended up with worse than I had to start with)... do the job right and be done with it for a long time. (rockauto.com has very good prices on KYB struts)

and yes - even when marking the bolts, you will need to get an alignment done for proper tire wear.

You can get it close by marking, but it wont be the same as having a proper alignment done.

Edited May 13, 2016 by heartless

[mikaleda]

I have changed several sets of shocks front and rear on subies from 90-99 and I've always been able to get them almost back to where they needed to be, but its not worth chancing a good set of tires.

 

Put new good quality shocks in and you wont regret it.

 

Unless its just a beater then I would throw a used set on get them as close as possible and call it good.

[whynot]

This is the first subaru I have owned. It has 200K on it. I drive 40 miles each way to work, and got this to do that commute in, as well as have a little bigger and more comfortable car than my dodge neon.

I got the car for 500, I have put about 500 into it. It needs struts, and tires. That will put me into the 2K range for the car, and how long will it last me? This is the battle going on in my head all of the time right now. 

The car seems to run and drive ok, 

It is not just the cost of the struts, but the mounts also that comes to about 500, then the alignment. It is just costing more all at one time than I had planned on, and I am about out of money to spend on this.

[1 Lucky Texan]

you could keep the struts and replace the mounts if they are cracked or the bearings squeaking - honestly, many cars are driving on worn-out struts all the time.

 

and, if you are short on money to maintain this car, where does the money come from to buy another car and begin repairing it?

Edited May 13, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[whynot]

Yes. I get the whole if you are short on money... But at what point do I decide this was a bad choice, and not throw any more at it? Or find a way to spread some of the costs out over time. 

I realize that in the big picture i still have less than 3 payments on a new car into this thing, but I still have a 99 car with 200K. I knew that there would be things to fix, but I did not expect so much all at one time. 

Just starting to question my choice on this car... 

Thanks for listening to me rant a little.

[heartless]

buying a used car is always a gamble, you never know for sure what you will be getting - unless you know the car ahead of time and how it was treated.

 

that said, I would take a 200K Subaru over any other brand out there. Yes, you may need to put a little into it now, but once the work is done, it should be pretty much trouble free for another 75-100,000 miles, if you take care of it.

 

just how bad are the struts on it? is it beating you to death from all the bouncing, or is it tolerable for a little longer?

buy one pair of struts now, the other in a month or so (or as soon as you can) and install all at once with an alignment after installing.

 

If it is so bad that you are getting beat up, or it is wearing the tires excessively, then yeah, it may be time to bite the bullet and just get it done and over with. but once done, it is done, for a long time.

[Fairtax4me]

Rear won't change unless you buy struts that are bent. Have swapped quite a few rear struts and even a couple sets of used struts and haven't ever had an issue after.

Front can change significantly if you don't mark the relationship of the strut flange to the knuckle, and mark the angle of the upper strut to knuckle bolt. The upper bolt is the adjustment bolt for the camber, so it must be carefully marked before disassembly so that it can be put back in the same place. The alignment may be slightly different afterward, but it will be close enough that it shouldn't cause any issues.

 

There is a notch in the strut flange, and notches on the head of the bolt. Mark the notch on the bolt where it lines up with the notch in the flange.

[idosubaru]

I never get alignments after struts. Mark front camber bolt and realign to same position, no big deal. I have no idea how my times I've done it

 

The meager height difference is benign and the bolts mentioned already are the only alignment settings you touch.

 

That said it makes sense to save your tires and be sure.

 

Just keep driving the current struts if they're warn and not failed.

 

I'd get a complete timing kit in there first

[whynot]

I am thinking about changing the struts, because I have a banging coming from the front passengers side. I have tried to track it down, had 2 different places look at it, changed the rear control arm bushing moved tires around. Still there. So I was going to change out the strut. and mount.

[1 Lucky Texan]

post your city in a new thread asking for a mechanic - maybe someone can suggest a shop that will track down the noise. If you can duplicate the sound for a mechanic on a test drive, that will help.

 

a common source for banging is the sway bar and its link/mounts. They can also be broken and will catch and pop. Plenty of other sources of noise of course, even springs can be broken in odd ways.

Edited May 14, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[whynot]

I did post, got no response, All of you helped me look at some things, then recommended I take it in. I have had it in 2 alignment shops, and no one can find any cause for the issue. The sway bar and rubber links are in tact. Just wish I knew more about cars for this one. I was thinking at this point some parts would at least rule things out, instead of just paying for "we do not know".

 

 

 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158806-front-end-clunk-at-65-mph/

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158872-good-shop-in-the-battle-ground-washington-area/

[Fairtax4me]

Can you take a video or sound clip of the noise and post a link here?

 

The front suspension on these cars is pretty simple. Usually if something is making noise its easy to find the source. Kinda surprised two shops couldn't figure out what it is.

[1 Lucky Texan]

I think you said, when it begins, it's repetitive?

 

if so, is it in sync with tire rotation, or faster? Could be some carrier bearing or u-joint problem i guess.

 

you feel no jerking or binding when maneuvering or parking in parking lots?

 

maybe after it happens, you could measure hub temps with an infrared thermometer - if a bearing is failing in an odd way, that hub may be hotter than its mate.

[whynot]

one other thing, this did not happen when the toe was way out. It started after the shop did the alignment. I now have replaced the rear control arm bushings and the drivers side axle because the boot was torn, and the sound is gone, but the alignment is out, and it is not making the noise, but will it return after another alignment?

[whynot]

May have to resort to the dealer? about 1 hr away. And leave the car for the day. 

[idosubaru]

I would avoid the dealer like the plague. I'd bet money they don't figure it out of get it right the first shot.

 

An auto collision shop maybe? Ask around for someone really good - if think they're far more experts atvalignment and suspension and noises than a dealer.

[idosubaru]

Unless you know that this particular dealer is exceptional. I just wonder if they see much stuff like this.

[whynot]

Ok, I have an appointment with another shop.we will see what they say.