timing belt jumping teeth, whats most common?

[winginit]

I just got this car and trying to figure out whats wrong. the owner sold it to me  out of frustration.  looks like some kid was in there and messed it up..96 legacy ej2.2 engine   115k miles i thought 127 but its 115.  Any way.    I reset the timing belt and it fired right up,  was ticking i checked oil gees over 2 quarts low.  put oil in turn key and no start just like before.  I turn the crank bolt with a ratchet and line up the marks  and they moved  .   the timing crank sprocket and alt belt pulley are wobbly the key way is boogerd up.   

 

IS THE KEY HALF MOON OR LONG SQUARE ?  some one cut a 1/2 moon key to fit but its not right and ruined the gear and pulley.

 

can any one  post maybe a picture of what the key should look like ?

 

 

The teeth on the crank gear look warn odd for a car with 115k but if the key is not right maybe premature were

 

            thanks

[Fairtax4me]

Tensioner is damaged. Only reason it will jump time. Tensioner has to be compressed very slowly or the seals inside will blow out then it doesn't keep proper pressure on the tension idler.

 

Key is a half moon type.

If the pulley wobbles replace it and the timing sprocket. It may not be perfect, but it will be better than having a worn/rounded out pulley on it.

The face of the timing sprocket can get mushroomed when the pulley wobbles around. Needs to be perfectly flat so the pulley sits flat against it.

[winginit]

Tensioner is damaged. Only reason it will jump time. Tensioner has to be compressed very slowly or the seals inside will blow out then it doesn't keep proper pressure on the tension idler.

 

Key is a half moon type.

If the pulley wobbles replace it and the timing sprocket. It may not be perfect, but it will be better than having a worn/rounded out pulley on it.

The face of the timing sprocket can get mushroomed when the pulley wobbles around. Needs to be perfectly flat so the pulley sits flat against it.

 

Tensioner is damaged. Only reason it will jump time. Tensioner has to be compressed very slowly or the seals inside will blow out then it doesn't keep proper pressure on the tension idler.

 

Key is a half moon type.

If the pulley wobbles replace it and the timing sprocket. It may not be perfect, but it will be better than having a worn/rounded out pulley on it.

The face of the timing sprocket can get mushroomed when the pulley wobbles around. Needs to be perfectly flat so the pulley sits flat against it.

THANKS  the tensioner was replaced by the last kid it looks new i compressed it slow 2 times  i just put it together again and its running.  looking at he tensioner when the car is running the piston is bouncing around, this time the engine starts repeatedly but   I will still change it and the pulleys and try again. if the key is half moon then  the wrong one is in there becaise it has the top ground off.    thanks

[Fairtax4me]

If the piston is bouncing its damaged and needs to be replaced. Should be rock steady.

[winginit]

If the piston is bouncing its damaged and needs to be replaced. Should be rock steady.

thanks,  i will replace it.

[heartless]

THANKS  the tensioner was replaced by the last kid it looks new i compressed it slow 2 times  i just put it together again and its running.  looking at he tensioner when the car is running the piston is bouncing around, this time the engine starts repeatedly but   I will still change it and the pulleys and try again. if the key is half moon then  the wrong one is in there becaise it has the top ground off.    thanks

 

slow needs to mean a half hour - or more - to compress it.

any faster and you will blow a seal out.

I usually stick mine in a vise, and just barely snug enough so it isn't falling out - then 1/8 turn compression and walk away for a few minutes to do other things, come back, another 1/8th turn, walk away - repeat until it is compressed enough to put a pin thru the holes. Usually takes 45 mins to an hour doing it that way, but at least I know I haven't blown a seal out accidentally..

have done it this way multiple times on tensioners for multiple cars... has worked well every time so far.

 

Oh, and when you get that new tensioner - keep the pin that is holding it compressed for future use. mark what it is for and put it in the toolbox.

[winginit]

where can i buy the correct crankshaft pulley key way for my ej2.2 ?.  nappa had one that fit the slot but was to tall,  i could grind it but i would like the right one.   Thanks

[winginit]

slow needs to mean a half hour - or more - to compress it.

any faster and you will blow a seal out.

I usually stick mine in a vise, and just barely snug enough so it isn't falling out - then 1/8 turn compression and walk away for a few minutes to do other things, come back, another 1/8th turn, walk away - repeat until it is compressed enough to put a pin thru the holes. Usually takes 45 mins to an hour doing it that way, but at least I know I haven't blown a seal out accidentally..

have done it this way multiple times on tensioners for multiple cars... has worked well every time so far.

 

Oh, and when you get that new tensioner - keep the pin that is holding it compressed for future use. mark what it is for and put it in the toolbox.

thanks for the advise.  thank you.

[idosubaru]

Get it from Subaru

Or a used one - I just loaded a 99 EJ22 for scrap that's headed out tomorrow.

 

If you tighten it really good you don't need a key for the crank pulley. It'll never back off if you give it some grunt. Iron crank so those threads won't strip like the rest of the aluminum long block.

[idosubaru]

I'd guess they're on Amazon or eBay