SUBEA82 Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Hello there, I have owned a 1990 loyale for a year. It had a broken timing belt when I got it and sat for all that time. A friend recently helped me reset the timing and the car runs good, but the check engine light is on. I have done some research (probably not enough) but I cant figure out how to read the codes. I downloaded the list of codes off of troublecodes.net The instructions off that site say to plug in connectors under the steering column. The instructions say the test mode connectors are black and the read memory connectors are green. The thing is the only connectors under there that I can connect are brown and pink. Im sure I'm missing something, please help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBEA82 Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 I just double checked and even though the registration says 1990 I looked on the door panel and it says dec 89 not sure if this will make a difference. This is a SPFI motor. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bakedpotatoechips99 Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Sorry but I can't fully help you with this issue. However, I will give you some of my thoughts on this issue. According to troublecodes.net, the test wires are to the LEFT of the steering column,and are green and black. if you still can't find them, you might look for a wiring diagram (you might be able to find that on the internet), or a Chilton or Haynes service manual, which would show color coding of the test wires to try to dispel the color coding concern you have about the check engine light connectors being different colors than what you found on troublecodes.net. Anyway, once you determine where to connect the wires for trouble code reading, you will simply bridge or connect the 2 connectors together, and turn the ignition switch without cranking the starter. You then will likely have to watch as the check engine light will flash the codes on the dashboard light. Usually 2 digits. So, for example, if the trouble code was 35, the check engine light would flash 3 times, then pause, and then flash 5 times. Each code is repeated 2, maybe three times so you won't miss it. And even if you do, it will continuously "loop through" the codes anyway, repeatign the whole process over and over until you either turn off the ignition, or disconnect the test wires. I can't fully remember, but, there is an initial code which is just to verify that the malfunction indicator system is functional, that is a low numeric code, and maybe only flashes once, I can't remember. But that code does not correspond to a part or problem, it is just to verify test status is okay or not to proceed. Also, while reading the trouble codes after the correct procedure is established and followed, long check engine light pulses (when reading the codes) which last 1.2 seconds indicate TENS numerically, and short pulses indite ones numerically. There is a pause of .3 seconds between digits. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Welcome to the Board. Here's a link for the ECU codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47526-subaru-ecu-codes-for-1983-1988/ Even though it doesn't list your cars year, it will work. All SPFI use same codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBEA82 Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 So according to the instructions in that link the connectors are on the engine side of the firewall. There is a black and a yellow connector there but there is nothing to plug them into. Under the steering column I plugged in the pink and brown connectors (with the ignition on but motor not running) and the light on the ecu flashed five times (.2sec) then repeated, Im assuming that is the low number code related to starting and driving that the instructions mentioned. I haven't been to worried about the light because the car works fine but this morning I started it earlier than normal when it was cold and it would barely run for 2-3mins it sputtered and acted like it had a miss. Then when it warmed up a bit it smoothed out and ran normal, weird. I am gonna go get a Haynes manual and see if that has some info Im missing. Thanks for your help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 All of my EA82 cars have had idiot lights stay on permanently at one time or another. My current daily driver EA82 has had the idiot light on for the last 5 yrs and I commute 100 miles daily in it. I usually get bored/frustrated with chasing down codes, wires, ect.. and end up covering the idiot light with black tape. Happy code hunting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Heres an example.. If it blinked 5 times watch to see if it blinked 3 times before that then 5 times, that would be code ->35<- that would be your purge valve.. one of the 2 little black blocks by the thermostat housing stopped working or the little brittle hose broke or is not connected.. let us know what ya find.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Or if it is blinking 5 then 2 sec pause then 5 my code in my chiltons is saying it the EGR valve gas temp sensor is open or short circuit or in our case fully loaded with splooge from oil dripping and running back to the exhaust %California only% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 The trouble codes are blinked on an LED in the ECU. Under the steering column. Remove the plastic panel to see the hole in the ecu where the led is. If the CEL light is on, it will be flashing the current code. You don't need to connect the test connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBEA82 Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 Yes the light on the ECU was flashing five times, quick .2 sec flashes. This was with no test connectors connected as I could not find any to connect. I don't care about the check engine light being on but Im trying to figure out whats going on because when its cold it runs really rough for a min or two then smooths out, if I give it gas while running rough it wants to die. It also will idle right at 800-900rpm when its warmed up but if im sitting at a stop light it will randomly drop idle to 300-400 bounce around there for like 30sec then go back up to normal idle. It has never died while idling though. How can I tell if it is a California model? Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 It's been awhile since I've done them, but I'm almost completely positive the diagnostic connectors are under the hood, by the driver's side strut tower. Also, car manufacture dates are typically about 6 months ahead of model years (dec of 1989 is definitely a 1990 model year). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 The random idle stuff sounds like the Coolant Temperature Sensor. 2 wire sensor under the thermostat. The trouble code may or may not indicate that. That sensor can fail in a way that causes your symptoms without throwing a code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBEA82 Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Hmmmm that makes sense because I don't think it has a thermostat (or the temp sensor is bad) it barely registers on the temp gauge and if you turn on the heater it drops to nothing. Got a new thermostat, see if that fixes it. Do these cars have a cold start injector or something that would affect how it runs when cold? My buddy who is a mechanic found the diagnostic connectors, they are under the hood on the drivers side strut tower. His snap on code reader couldn't talk to it for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Your car is a 1990 model This should help with your trouble codes http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 These are obd1 cars. That might be why the reader didn't work, guessing it's a new one. No cold start injector. Different map, yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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