1992 Subaru Loyale No Power to Coil! Please Help!

[SubaNoob212]

Please excuse me, I have basic knowledge of working on cars, when I first posted, I didn't realize the proper way to check for power to coil. I used a multimeter to check both terminals, between positive side and ground key in run position, and have power. I have power from ground side to hot. I used a grounded spark plug plugged into the coil, cranked and had no spark. I don't have a manual or any experience with Subaru's. I have checked all fuses on drivers side in car. I haven't checked fuse links for continuity as it is raining here, no garage, and I was hoping to get a reply before I went about blindly prodding. I also removed the coil bracket wire brushed it, and removed some paint from car body where ground wire attaches, wire brushed to ensure a good ground. Or was I supposed to add a new ground wire directly to battery. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edited May 17, 2016 by SubaNoob212

[SubaNoob212]

Went out while the rain stopped for a few, checked the coil resistances, primary resistance found to be 4.8 ohms, which I know is roughly four times what it is supposed to be, and secondary resistance is 10750 ohms. I am certain that the coil is bad. My new concern is that when I use a test light on the negative terminal of the coil to battery, and turn the ignition to run position, the test light goes out, and when you crank the engine, the light does not flicker like it is supposed according to another post I read. Not sure how to proceed, thanks everyone for your time.

[TomRhere]

Possible broke timing belt.

Possible screw for the rotor came out.

[Dee2]

You can take your coil into a parts shop and have it tested.  Then you'll know for sure if it bad.

[scoobiedubie]

How many miles on the body?  Anything over 250,000 miles, can have issues with wires losing conductivity at connectors.  The three most likely include 1. the engine ground wire at the chassis connector, 2. the black wire between the battery + terminal and the fusible link box, at the battery end, and 3. the hot wire to the back side of the alternator, at the alternator end.

[SubaNoob212]

I checked the resistance of the coil, 4.8 ohms on the primary, 10750 on the secondary, so secondary resistance is OK, primary is about 4 times normal. I used a test light to check for pulses on the coil negative side while cranking the engine, and nothing. I removed distributor cap and the rotor doesn't turn. Bad lhs timing belt, which seemed odd because I loosened a few bolts to pry open the cover on both sides, and belt appeared intact. I proceeded to removing alternator and AC bracket, fan, power steering, timing covers. Lhs timing belt has no teeth, can a bad idler pulley cause this? Car has 177k miles...

[SubaNoob212]

Thanks everyone

Edited May 19, 2016 by SubaNoob212

[DaveT]

Timing belts usually fail before 60,000 miles in my experience. The ball bearings in the idler and 2 tensioners are pretty near end of life around 50 to 60 k also. Even if they were still ok, they won't be by 100,000.

[Cougar]

You say that you have power getting to the + side of the coil and also saw it on the minus side at one point. Now you say there is no voltage on the minus side. I assume there is power still getting to the + side of the coil and if so this means that your problem is most likely do to a crank sensor inside the disty. Remove the wiring to the minus side of the coil and you should then see voltage on the coil if that is the case.