mkc1962 Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 I just aquired a 2005 Baja. Runs great and in overall great shape but has both heads that are weeping oil. Along with a few other things, would like to fix this and get it back to 100%. I have all the stuff to pull engines, but also have a lift which makes many things easier than most would have to deal with. Can the cylinder heads be removed from a 2005 baja without pulling the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Which engine? IMO opinion since the engines in subes are so easy to pull then pull it to do a complete gasket reseal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 +1 Pic shows the NON-scooped hood, so should be EJ251 (?). Yes the heads can be pulled w/the engine installed. As noted, I also don't recommend it and would pull it to do the complete reseal. Although the '99+ engines have 4 extra bolts to get it separted from the trans - two of which are no fun (CV's in the way). - Cams - Crank - Oil pump - Rear Main (not common) - Rear Separator (more common) - Oil sensor - ETC. Tbelt, WP, Pulleys, T-stat unless brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 yes. but most prefer pulling the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkc1962 Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 Na model, would assume EJ251 but have not looked to see what it is as I just picked it up this weekend. Yes considering pulling to do full reseal just weighing the options. Timing belt an associated parts was done recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamesama980 Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 IIRC the 251 was only used in 03s like mine. 04+ used the throttle-by-wire version. I'm in the same boat (heads weeping oil) and everything I've read is that for the trouble and bending-over-backwardsness of doing the heads in-car, it's easier to pull the engine and do it right. It certainly LOOKS easy to pull the engine and that's what I plan on doing this summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkc1962 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 All parts finally in hand. Starting tomorrow it comes out for a total reseal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtwinjunkie Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Post pics man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 I don't think pulling the engine is worth it, especially if you have a hoist (being able to get at the lower bolts without laying on your back. So jealous). It takes the techs here about 7 hours to do a full head gasket job, leaving the short block in the car. It was necessary to remove the engine on the DOHC cars, as the cams had to come out (and now your messing with valve shims) just to get to the head bolts, but not the SOHC ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkc1962 Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 (edited) Well its done and over and back to running like new....Pulled the engine and did a full reseal. Luckily so the decision to pull. Ends out the clutch disk was just about on the rivets, the pilot bearing was rusted and about to seize, so it got a full clutch kit. When pulling the flywheel came to find out that the rear main seal was also leaking. Both heads gaskets, with FelPro MLS kit. New head bolts. Rear n front main seals. Cam seals as well as cam towers resealed. Previous owner had only done the timing belt, so I went ahead and did all the rest of what should have been done when the belt was done, all pulleys and waterpump. One of the old pulleys has a near dry bearing and would have soon started to squeal or fail. All new rubber hoses entire engine bay, thermostat. Adjusted the valves while it was easy to do so ( all 16 were quite loose). New intake and exhaust gaskets, injector seals,throttle body seal. A few options added while going deep, a fumoto drain valve to make oil changes quicker and easier, a k&n air filter as it was in need of one anyway, both new drive belts, and a set of irridium plugs. Looking at the old ones which barely had any center electrodes left I feel they were factory originals. took about 3 days to accomplish but was doing other things at the same time, and there is no rushing perfection...yes I took a few pictures, and will post them. As for having a lift.....there is only one regret...I wish I had bought it long ago. An absolute recommended thing to anyone that does DIY. It will pay for itself in time and body saved in a very short time. Not to include makes working on things much more enjoyable. Other than I hooked the fuel supply and return up backwards at first, and it did not want to crank. Once corrected it cranked right up and purrs like a kitten. Now to enjoy for many years to come. Edited June 8, 2016 by mkc1962 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkc1962 Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 well maybe not as many shots as some might like to see....but did take a few to document the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 pic is a little small for me but - just mentioning, make sure it's the rear main and not that oil separator plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkc1962 Posted June 9, 2016 Author Share Posted June 9, 2016 It was the rear main....I actually took this picture after i had already cleaned up all the oily residue that was all about the seal and its mating surface. But this was just a surprise find as I was pulling the flywheel to change out the pilot bearing. Nothing of any noticeable size was coming from this area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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