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car is legacy wagon ej2.2 auto  115k miles.

  

is it common for the oil pump gasket to leak ?

 

i have been cleaning up the rusty bolts for the radiator and fan supports.  i just got this car and been fixing it.up.

 

i am ready to put the timing covers on and finish up but the oil pump area looks wet and dirty.  i am not sure if its from the oil that leaked from the cam seals the oil change or the pump is leaky.  Its not really dripping but its oily.

 

i plan on pressure washing the engine and bay again .   im wondering if i should reseal the pump ????   Thanks

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The screws on the backing plate of the pump tend to loosen up from what I have read. The fix is to pull the pump and put loctite on the each screw and retighten IIRC

Edited by mikaleda
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Only one oring between the pump and block. The plugs on the bottom of the pump are for testing pressures. Also replace the crank seal while you're there. While in the front end, I also would reseal the two wrist pin access plugs. Those are a 14mm Allen, above the water pump and behind the right upper idler. Just a bit of ultra black and clean the aluminum crush washers when you reinstall them.

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I assume you have already removed the crank sprocket.  Remove connector for crank sprocket.

Once done, carefully pry on the upper tabs to break the seal. Again, there is no gasket, only sealant between the pump and the block..

 

O.

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Go to a grocery store or even a dollar store, and buy a couple cans of generic Easy Off Oven cleaner, or get Easy Off. The generic cans run about $2.00-2.50 a can. It has lye in it, and lye is bar none the BEST oil, sludge, grease, etc. remover. Shake can, spray on oil, let it set for 4-5 minutes (it'll pull the oil into the foam), then rinse off with garden hose water. Heavy, caked-on sludge (like thicker than 1/4") scrape high spots then spray, maybe a second time for really bad build up. It'll completely remove the oil and residue, down to painted or bare metal with just the garden hose pressure rinsing off. Works extremely fast and no worries about it getting blasted around or ruining paint like high pressure water only can do. Spray oil pan, subframe assembly, etc. and it'll look like new. Cast iron (if ever used on say an old V8) heads or manifolds will look like they did when new. Engine degreaser at auto parts store is junk compared to it and 2-3X more expensive. 

 

Just keep it OFF polished aluminum and try not to inhale or get on skin or cuts as it's caustic. 

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Go to a grocery store or even a dollar store, and buy a couple cans of generic Easy Off Oven cleaner, or get Easy Off. The generic cans run about $2.00-2.50 a can. It has lye in it, and lye is bar none the BEST oil, sludge, grease, etc. remover. Shake can, spray on oil, let it set for 4-5 minutes (it'll pull the oil into the foam), then rinse off with garden hose water. Heavy, caked-on sludge (like thicker than 1/4") scrape high spots then spray, maybe a second time for really bad build up. It'll completely remove the oil and residue, down to painted or bare metal with just the garden hose pressure rinsing off. Works extremely fast and no worries about it getting blasted around or ruining paint like high pressure water only can do. Spray oil pan, subframe assembly, etc. and it'll look like new. Cast iron (if ever used on say an old V8) heads or manifolds will look like they did when new. Engine degreaser at auto parts store is junk compared to it and 2-3X more expensive. 

 

Just keep it OFF polished aluminum and try not to inhale or get on skin or cuts as it's caustic. 

why would do this to pull the pump off,?  i have oven cleaner allready,  i have used it in the past ,if you leave it on to will screw everything up.

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