swamphunter Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 (edited) So my 2006 Forester is ill. Was hard starting and wouldn't idle (for wife). Had it towed home. Showed codes for 1 + 3 misfire. I cleared the codes, pulled the plug wires and plugs (fairly new), cleaned all the oil off the boots and cranked it up, it ran fine for a few seconds, started knocking (was always impressively quiet - 195K miles), and now has no compression on # 1 cylinder. A leak down test has hissing coming from the oil fill tube, and I now see stories of piston failure. Engine will be coming out tomorrow. If it needs replaced, does anybody know what years are compatible? There seems to be a JDM available locally, but it is a 2005. If I opt to rebuild, how about a good source on pistons? I'm not looking for racing pistons, but don't want cheapo replacements either. Dennis Edited May 30, 2016 by swamphunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamphunter Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 Update: Pulled the right head (man, are these things fun to get out of the car) No damage to the piston or valves (one intake opens before the other one?) It appears that the head gasket went and was possibly air going through an oil passage into the crankcase. Heads will minimum need resurfaced, probably have valves done. If I'm going this far. I'll pull the pistons and re-ring it. The cylinders look excellent, still showing cross hatch marks and no ridge. Have to do a straight edge on the block to check that. Questions: new head bolts? (some say yes, some say no). Good source for rings? Head gaskets - OEM right? Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 You can either try something like rockauto.com (they carry a ton of quality brands, very reasonable prices, AND they have parts that can be difficult to find elsewhere i.e. new lifters, etc.) Go there, plug in your car info, then carefully look as they should have most everything needed including timing belt and pulleys. I've purchased a HG for another car from there, as well a bunch of suspension parts, etc. They do a great job of packaging, and their prices can beat parts store prices even with shipping factored in. Pistons, rings, bearings, you might also consider Summit Racing if you want forged or higher quality aluminum. Hypereutectic are typically cheapest, and suitable for stock power levels, but they can be brittle. Can also find things like honing tools, etc. FWIW, it'd probably be cheaper to swap in a used engine with less mileage. Hell, you can get full car that at least starts for $600-$900, which will be cheaper than doing the heads, rings, pistons, bearings, turning crank, time spent doing the work, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamphunter Posted May 30, 2016 Author Share Posted May 30, 2016 Thanks for the reply. This brings us back to my original question: What years fit? There seems to be some consensus that by swapping intake, sensors, and cam sprockets, a wide range of engines can fit. I'd have to know for sure before pulling the trigger on buying a used engine. As far as rebuilding this one, I'd feel better knowing what I have. Down here (Tampa bay area, Florida), you can't touch even a junker for under a K. I still have to get the left head off, clean and check the block and get a estimate of time and price on doing the heads. I don't even really think it will need pistons, but will know more when I pull them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 You have an 06 so you have AVCS, so you need a 05-07 long block. If you need just a short block than I believe most blocks after 2000 will fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 That seems like more than head gasket but hard to say with just words. Knocking and no compression is not typical EJ25 head gasket failure. Short block - 99 forester and Impreza RS 2000+ EJ25 Everything else Technically a late 90's ej25 can work but it's not worth it. Less reliable engine and funky piston/head gasket clearance issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Resurface the heads and Use EJ25 turbo head gaskets on the reassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamphunter Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 The knocking sounded more like detonation knock, but it was not warmed up. I do lean more towards resurfacing the heads and new gaskets now. I will at minimum pull the #1 piston, check it for damage and check ring gap while it's out. If gap is okay, it goes back in. From looking around more, the heads do seem to be more year specific due to the variable cam system (the local advertised engine lacks the cam solenoids and the housing on the rear of the right head). Turbo head gaskets? This is a new one to me (Subaru wise). Do these (regular or turbo gaskets) go on dry? I saw some kind of video where the guy seemed to coat them (unless manufacturer) specified, I've never been a fan of that process. Again, thanks to all who have responded. FWIW, th e local Subaru Dealer, Bert Smith, is lousy on parts service. Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamphunter Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 (edited) Left head is now off. # 1 piston is removed. The knocking was apparently coming from the #1 center exhaust valve lightly hitting the top of the piston. I can see this now that everything is apart and out in the open. The valve is slightly bent. Rings look okay, but grooves definitely need cleaning. There seems to be a wide range of opinions on ring gap with most information aimed towards turbo and performance applications. Everything from .0079 min to over .020. Cylinder block deck on right side looks good with a straight edge after cleaning (kind of reminds me of old Chevy Vega days, but only 2 cylinders). My big issue now: I need to remove this bent valve. Do the cams need to come out to have the heads re-surfaced. I did see some poor pictures in my Haynes manual (yes, I know) about releasing cam springs. Anybody? Internet search is frustrating on this. Dennis Note: this car is a grocery getter. Basic everyday transportation, not a performance car. Edited May 31, 2016 by swamphunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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