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Upgrading 87 Brat Headlamps


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I see another thread on the same topic, but did not want to hijack.  However, I am upgrading all 4 lamps with Hella conversion kits for High/Low and Hi beams.  Took the old sealed beams out and the tiny screws holding the trim around the 4 lamps were severely rusted.  I had to remove the entire right headlamp frame to get one stubborn screw out by starting it from the back side with a small locking plier.  However, got 16X M4-0.7 X 8 mm machine screws from Home Depot and will replace all the trim ring screws.  Any leads on where to source the aim adjustment screws?  These are also severely rusted and would be good to replace all of them.  Thx,

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I found them on the "HELP" rack at the parts store. Actually had to stop at a few stores to get enough of them.

 

Don't have the part number, but the ones with the 3/8" nut insert are the ones you want.

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Called the dealership yesterday and found out that the headlamp nuts are still available, but the screws are not.  Will go ahead and order enough for the lamps.  Will source the screws locally.  However, will go to a few places today to see if there are suitable local alternatives.  Separately, I installed the conversion kits.  Need to aim the lamps and the Brat is still sitting in the garage.  However, everything works as it should.  I also spliced in new Dorman connectors on the Original Hi/Low harnesses after cutting off 3 to 4 inches off the end.  The ones I used were sitting in my parts box for a few years.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-84790-Headlight-Socket/dp/B001SGBZSQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465058738&vehicle=1987-13-54-4-59-31-8-8-3195-113-2-4-435-212-1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=1987%3Asubaru%3Abrat

 

One observation, the original headlamp wiring is ~14 gauge and I am sure Subaru did not skimp and used OF copper wires; the wiring was shiny copper.  The Dorman connectors. I believe are 16 gauge and the copper wiring appeared tarnished upon stripping the ends.  However, used 14 - 16 gauge butt connectors with heat shrink tubing and all should be well.

 

In order to minimize power requirements, but keep the car glitz free, I am looking at some simple Sylvania LED exterior lamps.  So far, I have sourced Zevo 1156 lamps (clear/white for the reverse lamps), Zevo 1157 red lamps for the rear brakes and Zevo 194 lamps for the license and parking lamps.  These have yet to be delivered.  Will also source Zevo 194 amber lamps for the front indicators, and research suitable Zevo 1156 amber turn signals.  I do not want to use resistors and hence reading up on LED compatible flashers.

 

Another irritating concern I have been tackling for years is with the dome lamp, i.e. not coming on with the door open - just works if you manually flick the switch.  The door ajar indicator works just fine.  I remember a few years ago, I noted corroded wiring/connectors under the passenger side carpet and removed some sections.  I never rebuilt the wiring there and wonder if that could be linked to my dome lamp behavior.  Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the under passenger seat wiring?

 

Will continue to update.

 

 

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Just finished replacing most external lamps (other than head and fog/driving lights) with LEDs.  All lamps were Sylvania Zevo's, as follows:

  1. Rear tail:  1157R (red, running and brake)
  2. Reverse:  7506 (white, interchanges with 1156).  The left lamp is much dimmer than the right one.  Just called O'Reilly's and they have ordered a replacement.
  3. Rear turn:  1156A (amber)
  4. Front side marker:  194A (amber)
  5. Front turn:  1156A (amber)
  6. Front parking:  194.  This is currently white and I don't think looks good on the Brat; not even sure whether it is legal as a parking lamp.  I will change these to the license plates eventually.  Need to order another pair of 194 ambers for the front parking lamps.
  7. License plates:  Will use 194 whites from number 6 above.

Wally World has the Zevo's at decent prices, even better than Amazon.  Wally World has a few numbers in stock, but their web prices are much lower than in store prices.  They will match their web prices also.  O'Reilly's matches Wally World web prices and I was able to get some there.  Amazon has the widest color variety, but not the greatest prices.  I had a Tridon EP-34 electronic flasher from @3 years ago and replaced the original Niles with the Tridon to test the LED lamps.  The turn signals and emergency flashers work great.

 

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just realised how bad my single headlights are on high beam without my driving lights. Thinking back people do a relay conversion to get better light output. Just wondering why a relay addition supposedly works as we already have the round Mitsubishi ? factory relays 22A under dash, one per side, or is it one per beam ? Something new, fancy and legal would be good. Mind you, after constant dazzling by new cars with LED style factory lighting that has a flat top line light cut rather than the angle this way or that way [depending on left or right hand drive] I am thinking any ebay light  purchase will do me :) . If I get enough feedback my lights are bad - I'll then know they ain't good

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