Engine and Tranny won't separate. Why?

[Yoyota]

Hello All,

Obviously this is my 1st subaru motor pull. It is from a Canadian 2006 Forester. I have all of the bolts out. There were 3 or 4. And the nuts off of the 2 bottom studs. I have a cherry picker and the bloody thing will not separate from the Transmission. Do I have to remove the studs?  Can I use a chisel and separate the two? Is there a special trick I am missing?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Cheers

Yoyo

[wtdash]

Hi,

Check out POST to ensure you got all the bolts/nuts separated. Yours is the Phase 2 ('99+), if unclear.

 

In my experience, I've had a few that had separation anxiety. I believe there is a lip along the bellhousing that can be used to pry against. I'd not recommend the chisel as it might crack the housing.

 

Also, I usually support the trans  w/a wide piece of wood (don't dent the pan!) to lift it up along w/the engine lift.....so they don't bind while trying to separate. Lift just enough that the engine mount studs clear the cross member.

 

The two bottom studs stay intact...@ least when I pull the engine. Don't damage the threads....

 

The Pros will certainly chime in w/better ideas.

 

edit: as noted below make sure the TC is disconnected and STAYS w/the trans. READ UP on 'seating the TC' on here/online as it's important.

There are 4 bolts that must be removed from the TC where it connects to the flex plate. The flex plate stays w/the engine. They are a PITA to get to and are not well-suited  for any standard wrenches/sockets. I remove the Thottle Body for access and use a bolt extractor so I don't round 'em off and create even more grief.

Edited June 28, 2016 by wtdash

[TOONGA]

If it is an auto make sure the torque converter is unbolted from the flex plate, this is done through the opening for the starter motor (I hope this has been taken off )

 

It can stop the engine and transmission from coming apart

 

TOONGA

[Caboobaroo]

For your model, there should be 6 bolts and two bottom studs.

[montana tom]

one of the starter bolts is an engine/tranny bolt.  YES the torque converter must be unbolted from the flywheel , use the inspection hole behind pass side intake manifold, the tranny must be raised   , the dog leg removed . I have used a large dull flat blade screwdriver to help persuade engine and tranny to part ways. stuck guide pins   are usually to blame be sure to put a swipe of anti seize on them for reassembly.  

[forester2002s]

I've used a flat-blade flexible paint-scraper.

It's thin enough to get into the joint just a bit. Leave it in there and then get a small flat-blade screwdriver into the partially-open joint. Then a slightly larger screwdriver next to the smaller one.

And so on, until the joint is open all the way around.

[topsecret]

Another thing to watch for..

when i pulled my first one i found out about lifting the trans the hard way.  You have to lift it so the mount studs can clear the engine support while you pull it off the dowel studs like some of the last guys mentioned.

The part i messed up on:  Just make sure if it's an auto to pull the harness to the side of the peak of the trans.  It will get very tight in there while lifted.

My harness got pinched between the top of the trans and the body/trans tunnel when i lifted it and when i re-installed the engine it wouldn't come out of limp mode.  I had to patch up the harness where it had been pinched.  YUCK!

I'm really great at messing things up!

[idosubaru]

1. Get all the engine/trans bolts

2. 4 torque converter bolts. 

3. 2 motor mount studs need to clear the crossmember - something needs to lift the transmission so it holds everything up above the cross member - usually the engine lift is doing that - but since you'll have to lift the trans for reinstallation it works well to do it right now as you're pulling. 

 

if all that is good:

 

4. there are dowell pins that routinely stick as well.  chiseling/large screw driver/pry bar will work to separate - create a gap, go to other side, back to other side and back and forth a few times as you open/close the gaps and it'll wiggle out.

[ocei77]

a small bottle jack with wood against the firewall and the piston pushing onto the block will work also.

 

O.