matt167 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 I just had to put front brakes and rotors on my '01 Forester. The brakes were getting really bad even though there was still a little pad left. They were not sliding properly and the rotors shook violently.. As best I can tell the rotors were not out of round, they were not scored, but had been flaking the top surface on the inside mostly. I've never seen that before.. What makes them do that? as best as I can tell, the brake job was not really that old, just wasn't done properly and the pads wore uneven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Your rotors may have been overheated at some point. Yes, they are designed to get hot, but too much heat for too long can alter the metallurgy of the steel. Sometimes, this causes a discoloration of the surface; other times it might cause the 'cracking' or 'crazing' that you describe. Overheating can also cause the rotors to warp (sideways). It doesn't take much of a warp to cause the steering wheel to shake when braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 If caliper slide pins were not working properly, then there is a good chance that the pad was not retracting from the rotor, when your foot was off the brake. Result is added wear to the brake pad, and over heated rotor. If all this is true, then a frozen slide pin is your problem. I have had this happen, even though I was able to get the slide pin freed up, it froze up again about a year later. This time the slide pin was froze up solid, and could not be freed up, so I replaced the caliper. I would suggest replacing the rotor, pads, and caliper. I have bought, and used re manufactured calipers with great success. I would only replace the caliper that is the problem. No need to replace one that the slide pins still work properly. Use plenty of slyde lube on the slide pins on reassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 The bottom sliders were stuck on both with the tops being free on both. I lubed them up with caliper grease and they seem ok now, but agree they will probably stick again.. Is the caliper bracket part of the caliper you get with a rebuilt caliper on a Subaru? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Yes you can get the bracket as part of a rebuilt caliper. It seems that most remans, but not all, include the bracket. I had that 'flaking' rotor problem but just assumed it was cheap steel / parts store rotors. The best rotors I had were just plain Centric which I got off Amazon and were inexpensive, those were great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Yes you can get the bracket as part of a rebuilt caliper. It seems that most remans, but not all, include the bracket. I had that 'flaking' rotor problem but just assumed it was cheap steel / parts store rotors. The best rotors I had were just plain Centric which I got off Amazon and were inexpensive, those were great. Yes, my same experience, the bracket came with the rebuild. A good thing too, as old unit with froze slide pin, would not free up even after a ton of effort. Just made it impossible to use old caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 To get a bracket for sure , you ask for a loaded caliper, comes with almost everything pads , brackets , caliper if you want to replace your rubber feed lines you will have to order them separate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 Rotors I got were centric rotors. At an old pro value auto parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 My problem is there is always a big rust ridge on the rotors that forms along the outer and inner perimeters of the pad swept area, creeping its way inwards, reducing pad contact surface area and making a heluva droning noise when the brakes get hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 I just had to put front brakes and rotors on my '01 Forester. The brakes were getting really bad even though there was still a little pad left. They were not sliding properly and the rotors shook violently.. As best I can tell the rotors were not out of round, they were not scored, but had been flaking the top surface on the inside mostly. I've never seen that before.. What makes them do that? as best as I can tell, the brake job was not really that old, just wasn't done properly and the pads wore uneven. you mean something like this?? these were the rears I took off of my 95 Legacy when I got it... Salt, getting too hot from bound up calipers/dragging pads and just plain age are all contributing factors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 My rears are not much better than that but yes. I have a new set of rear pads on hand that I will put on with new rotors eventually Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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