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1999 Legacy GT 2.5 with non-operational trans


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I just bought a 1999 Legacy GT 2.5 wagon that has at some point had a 2.2 swap and has had some front sheet metal replaced. I bought it as a mechanic's special because the transmission is not working as it should. The previous owner said he had it moving around his yard under its own power, but when I attempted to move it around, it seems as if it is in neutral. When I unloaded it off the trailer today it acted as if it were stuck in park even though it was shifted to neutral (engine off, no battery, shift lock override engaged). Yesterday it rolled fine when the car was running and in neutral. I did not try starting it today because it does not have a battery.

 

My questions are:

Is there something simple this may be?

I have several 1997 transmissions (one outback, one impreza outback, one legacy L) that are good (as far as I know) are any of these compatible with the existing trans?

 

I am also a bit confused by the swap. I am not sure if the engine is the right type for a 99. How do I tell? it is hard to start but seems to run ok when warmed up a little.

 

Any help is appreciated. 

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For a direct replacement trans you have to have one from a 99-03 legacy gt or outback, 99-03 forester, or 99-03 impreza 2.5rs. 99 was the first year of the phase 2 4eat making earlier versions not compatible. There were also some changes in 04 that make them not a good candidate for a swap without opening up the transfer housing and swapping things around. Your final drive ratio is 4.44:1, the models I listed above will be the only ones with compatible transmissions.

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I am also a bit confused by the swap. I am not sure if the engine is the
right type for a 99.

 

If you look at the top of the intake manifold, the engine type will be marked there, as EJ22 or EJ25. The easiest way is to look at the 2 cam plastic covers. Look to see if each cam cover has 1 or 2 circular indentations molded into the plastic. If 1, it is a 2.2. If it has 2, then it is the 2.5 motor.

 

The auto tranny dip stick is located down next to the fire wall on the driver's side. It is hidden down low under the heater hoses, and difficult to see without using a flashlight. Use your hand to spread apart the heater hoses, so you can see the dip stick. See if the tranny is full of ATF. This would be the first thing I would look into.

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My .02:

 

The 2.2 was likely the Phase 1 from a '95-'98 model which WERE compatible w/the electronics/harness/ecu for the '99 GT and OB which both still had the Phase 1 setup>> EJ25D (but a phase 2 shortblock).

 

One way to tell is if the IACV and the TPS are the earlier style of the '96-'98 2.2/2.5 models.

 

also, the Trans may be one of the 'delayed engagement' versions. Some have been fixed ......search for the THREAD on here.

 

GL,

TD

Edited by wtdash
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Thanks for the information. The engine I verified to be a SOHC 2.2 before buying based on the "EJ22" stamp cast into the block and the single cam covers. The trans fluid I also checked before purchase and it was full.

 

I will search the "delayed engagement" and see what that is.

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Well, I searched the "delayed engagement" and tried the "Trans X" transmission additive and have the same result. Just prior to adding the Trans X, I was able to get it to move a little bit in "Drive" but after the engine completed warm up, It didn't want to move at all.

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Having checked ATF level, and adding Trans-X with no improvement, indicates that tranny is probably shot. Having been on this forum for years, the advise often repeated under the circumstances, is to replace the tranny, usually one from a junk yard, rather than having it repaired at a tranny shop. The tranny shop will be expensive. Subaru auto trannys are well made, and don't often break, so one from a JY can usually be counted on to be good, if taken from a car that was wrecked. "Wrecked" means the car was running at the time it entered the JY, and was involved in a traffic accident, so tranny likely good, as car was being driven.

 

86BRATMAN's advise above gives you is an excellent starting point on what model Subaru's AT will work on your car.

 

You can also verify that your tranny is a 99 model by looking for an external tranny filter screwed onto the front side of the tranny. It will look exactly like a screw on oil filter. This will verify that you have a phase 2, 4EAT model tranny. Earlier model years, with phase 1, 4EAT did not have the external filter.

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My current Trans has the following markings on the top drivers side of the bellhousing. There is a small sticker with "716403" then a larger sticker with "TZ1A2ZJEAA-WY". Is there a way to decode this?

 

Second, I have a complete, wrecked 1997 Outback that the body is crashed beyond repair. The mechanicals (minus radiator and A/C) are still good. It still yard drives. What would need to be done to swap the engine and trans over from the 97 to the 99? I know there are electrical changes that would need to be made. Would it be a situation where I could take the harness and TCU from the 97 and plug it in to the 99? also where are the ECU and TCU located on the Legacy and Impreza models in the late 90's?

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I forgot to mention, The 97 Outback has already been converted to a 2.2 from a 97 Impreza Outback Sport. The 2.2 in the GT now is running like crap. Not sure what it's problem is, but it starts like a carburated car with a bad choke, doesn't want to stay running until it warms up, then you have to feather the throttle to get it to build RPMs. I have very little information about the GT's history. Was leftover inventory from a defunct used car dealership.

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I forgot to mention, The 97 Outback has already been converted to a 2.2 from a 97 Impreza Outback Sport. The 2.2 in the GT now is running like crap. Not sure what it's problem is, but it starts like a carburated car with a bad choke, doesn't want to stay running until it warms up, then you have to feather the throttle to get it to build RPMs. I have very little information about the GT's history. Was leftover inventory from a defunct used car dealership.

bad cold start sensor?? Acts like a carb choke.

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Yes the bulkhead harness has the ecu and tcu. You'll have to pull the dash, heater core, and move the ac evaporator box a couple inches to get the harness out. It is not an easy job by any means, last one I did I think it took me somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 hours. I've done several of them for turbo engine swaps over the years.

 

The problem with the starting is likely the coolant temperature sensor, there is no "cold start sensor".

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am considering the possibility of rebuilding the transmission myself. I have never rebuilt an automatic transmission before but have rebuilt engines. I am not sure where to start as far as where to get the technical information to rebuild it. Also not sure the best source for the parts,. Any special tools needed? I have no problem removing it. I also don't have a ton of money in the car so if I botch the job, no biggie if I don't put a ton into the rebuild parts. I would like to learn how to rebuild it.

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  • 10 months later...

Yes the bulkhead harness has the ecu and tcu. You'll have to pull the dash, heater core, and move the ac evaporator box a couple inches to get the harness out. It is not an easy job by any means, last one I did I think it took me somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 hours. I've done several of them for turbo engine swaps over the years

 

What about the ABS pump in the engine bay? There is a grounp of wire harness goes thru the right fender to the ABS pump. When you swap the bulkhead engine harness, do you have to swap the ABS pump harness???

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It seems this thread has remained active past my resolution of the problem, so I'm putting my resolution in. The problem with the way the engine ran was tracked down to two factors. Foremost, the transmission was junk and likely had damaged components causing the engine to strain. I swapped the transmission out for a 99+ 4eat from an Impreza rs 2.5. After the transmission swap, things were much better but not optimal. I then diagnosed a bad rocker assembly on the passenger side. I swapped it out with a good used one and it was good to go.

I eventually sold it in favor of a 97 LGT sedan, also with a bad transmission. I needed a sedan so I could lock valuables in the trunk. I rebuilt the transmission under the supervision of a well experienced transmission rebuilder and it works great.

In summary, I went the easier way on the swap to a compatible transmission for the 99.

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