Fairtax4me Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 When you get all the bolts out of the flex plate you should use a screwdriver or prybar to push the converter back away from the flex plate. That helps prevent it from getting hung up and pulling out of the trans. These converters are kind of tricky to line up. There is also a circlip in there that can become dislodged if the TC pulls out and can prevent it from pushing back in all the way. Be sure to replace the front seal on the trans. Once those are exposed to dirt they don't last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas5259 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 When you get all the bolts out of the flex plate you should use a screwdriver or prybar to push the converter back away from the flex plate. That helps prevent it from getting hung up and pulling out of the trans. These converters are kind of tricky to line up. There is also a circlip in there that can become dislodged if the TC pulls out and can prevent it from pushing back in all the way. Be sure to replace the front seal on the trans. Once those are exposed to dirt they don't last long. Dang - wish I knew of, or thought of that at the time. Oh well, first time doing this much work on an EJ, mistakes will be made. I will order the front seal and read up on how to properly insert the TC with alldata. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas5259 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) Got the block split and found Fel-Pro head gaskets. Looks like the originals blew at some point and were replaced. That explains why a Subaru engine with 150k had great compression and no signs of leakage. Light rear main leak Had no trouble knocking out the wrist pins from the other side With this Pistons out. Very dirty Good cross hatching though Block bolts And here are the bearings. Signs of water in the oil. Crank feels like a worn brake rotor in places. Crank surface Rod surface. Is that just carbon, or something worse? How would that get there? Next course of action is to take the crank and rods to a machine shop for measurement verification. May need a new/used crank and rods. Will get the torque converter seated correctly while waiting for parts to arrive. Edited August 24, 2016 by cas5259 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas5259 Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Dropped the crank and rods off at the machine shop. They verified my measurements and said they could grind the crank and fit oversize bearings. They will also measure and recondition the rod ends if any are out of spec. Will now turn my focus to ordering all gaskets, fitting the torque converter, then cleaning up the pistons. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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