Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

When you get all the bolts out of the flex plate you should use a screwdriver or prybar to push the converter back away from the flex plate. That helps prevent it from getting hung up and pulling out of the trans. 

 

These converters are kind of tricky to line up. There is also a circlip in there that can become dislodged if the TC pulls out and can prevent it from pushing back in all the way. 

Be sure to replace the front seal on the trans. Once those are exposed to dirt they don't last long. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you get all the bolts out of the flex plate you should use a screwdriver or prybar to push the converter back away from the flex plate. That helps prevent it from getting hung up and pulling out of the trans. 

 

These converters are kind of tricky to line up. There is also a circlip in there that can become dislodged if the TC pulls out and can prevent it from pushing back in all the way. 

Be sure to replace the front seal on the trans. Once those are exposed to dirt they don't last long. 

Dang - wish I knew of, or thought of that at the time. Oh well, first time doing this much work on an EJ, mistakes will be made. I will order the front seal and read up on how to properly insert the TC with alldata.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the block split and found Fel-Pro head gaskets. Looks like the originals blew at some point and were replaced. That explains why a Subaru engine with 150k had great compression and no signs of leakage.

 

20160823_190536_zpslx6e2fiz.jpg

 

Light rear main leak

20160823_193815_zpselxor22t.jpg

 

Had no trouble knocking out the wrist pins from the other side

20160823_195201_zpsjbuytjin.jpg

 

With this

20160823_195713_zpsmtorxamt.jpg

 

Pistons out. Very dirty

20160823_200838_zpsqsyv6sum.jpg

 

Good cross hatching though

20160823_200942_zps09juoajc.jpg

 

Block bolts

20160823_204230_zpsw6r6xuxi.jpg

 

And here are the bearings. Signs of water in the oil. Crank feels like a worn brake rotor in places.

20160824_071107_zpsqhmknb8t.jpg

 

20160824_071115_zpsxnngyjyz.jpg

 

20160824_071123_zps89efadp4.jpg

 

20160824_071133_zpsjnyzrpfp.jpg

 

Crank surface

20160824_071145_zpsmb2vbeei.jpg

 

20160824_071310_zps0qfle1xr.jpg

 

Rod surface. Is that just carbon, or something worse? How would that get there?

20160824_071402_zps3mxqw6mf.jpg

 

20160824_071452_zpsoukoc2xk.jpg

 

20160824_071501_zpseprgb2e8.jpg

 

Next course of action is to take the crank and rods to a machine shop for measurement verification. May need a new/used crank and rods. Will get the torque converter seated correctly while waiting for parts to arrive.

Edited by cas5259
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dropped the crank and rods off at the machine shop. They verified my measurements and said they could grind the crank and fit oversize bearings. They will also measure and recondition the rod ends if any are out of spec. Will now turn my focus to ordering all gaskets, fitting the torque converter, then cleaning up the pistons. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...