Project Brumby (1988 Ea81) need some help

[Lecardor]

Hi im a new owner of a 1988 ea81 subaru brumby that i have bought as a project car and there are a few things that i would like to ask about

 

1st- the plan was always to replace the engine with something better, i dont need ridiculous power however i am looking for at least 100kw N/A. so far the ej22(1or2series naturally aspirated) looks like the go because apparently you dont need to modify the chassis rails so i wont have legal issues, it slots easy and is carbureted, being carbureted without ecu is a good thing as i am a simple mechanic with a very tight budget and installing an installing ecu is apparently a very big hassle. im looking for something that wont be to difficult to swap. also i would like to know what issues there is going to be legally with changing it (im from queensland)

 

2nd- now this is actually my first build (how else do you learn) however i do have some ex mechanic friends helping me out with it. but i was wondering what is the go with the gearbox because i want to upgrade it to a 5spd instead of the standard 4spd but i dont know what to get/do (any help)

 

3rd- Wheels, now i have been looking around and have found out my 1988 brumby like all the other similar subie models has a really uncommon stud pattern and i cannot find anything on what to do to make it compatible with other patterns and i cannot find for the life of me find any 4x140 wheels that look half decent  , i would like to get a nice looking set of 13-14 inch rims that wont empty a bank.

 

4th- cruise control, now apparently this is highly achievable with any vehicle, i just dont know how or what to get

 

5th- power steering, now i know this is a thing but i dont know what to do in the situation of an engine swap, does anything change or do you just use the old leone steering like i have seen some people do.

 

please know i am new to this!! i will probably be wrong about allot of things but dont comment just to say "go home" i have a long time to work on this and have help from lots of people (even an old subaru mechanic), if you could help me out and give me some "helpful" advise i would really appreciate it, i may ask further questions.

 

 

thanks in advance -Lewis 

[BratWarrior]

Welcome Lewis! Congrats on your new Brumby! First off... please please PLEASE use the search function. There are HUNDREDS of threads regarding every question that you have asked. Enough info to get rolling right away. That being said...

 

1st: EJ22 is a great choice for power and reliability, but it IS a big job. Especially for a first timer. Are carbureted EJ's common down there? If so, that would be much easier for you that fuel injection. No wiring harness to mess around with. You can also soup up your Ea81. Weber 32/36  carb, Ea82 SPFI pistons, bigger exhaust, a few other things, and you'll get your 100hp. There are a lot of options. Also, you should send me an EJ22 carbed intake. Thanks!

 

2nd: Get yourself a 5-speed Dual Range transmission. You need an adapter kit and must lengthen your driveshaft, but it is a straightforward install. Search for "Jerrys Kit".

 

3rd: Not many wheel options. You can get Pugeot 14" wheels with the stock bolt pattern. You can also get Enkies. You could repaint your stock wheels and make them look any way you want. A popular thing to do is redrill your hubs for a 5-lug or 6-lug pattern. Very inexpensive to do and you have an unlimited amout of wheel choices until the end of time.

 

4th: Cruise control is really going to complicate things if you are replacing or extensively modding your engine. Of course it can be done. These car/trucks are really fun to drive anyway!

 

5th: You can add power steeing fairly easily depending on your access to parts. You will need a power steering rack, lines, pulley, crossmember (or alter the manual one), the extended thermostat housing (it is larger on PS cars), and a passenger side cylinder head that accepts power steering. These heads have a mount for the PS pump. Now if you are swapping the engine, ou would need to use an EJ22 PS pump and do some other modifications.

 

A few suggestions for you. Get a Factory Service Manual if you can, get a Haynes manual, download the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" book HERE, and read as much as you can on this site. The more I read, the more confident I am to tackle big projects. Also... have fun! Gen 2 Subarus (especially the BRAT/Brumby) are great cars and very simple to work on.

[Lecardor]

yeah for some reason here in Aus the ej22 series1-2 is quite common, i cant thank you enough for all this information

 

. cruise control will be helpful when driving long distances as i am going to be using the brumby to transport my dirtbike to various places to ride.

 

thanks again - Lewis

Edited October 4, 2016 by Lecardor

[dfoyl]

Not sure on the QLD regulations, but typically you will need to upgrade brakes to suit the engine. My recommendation (and I am biased here, because it is what I did) is to get a beat-up SF Forester or similar as that will give you about 95% of what you need. Engine, gearbox (if you want to go EJ throughout, I stayed with an EA82 box and adaptor plate), brakes including front hubs, etc. You will need XT6 rear hubs (I can help you on those), and wiring loom cut-down (see Gannon on AUSubaru if you aren't confident in doing it yourself), and whatever else is needed to mix-and-match an EJ transmission to the rest of the car.

 

Note you will struggle to find suitable offset wheels if you go 5-stud - I found VW/Audi wheels were the best option. Subaru factory wheels have a much higher positive offset (typically +48 to +53) compared to the earlier Brumby/MY wheels.

[el_freddo]

G'day mate,

 

I highly doubt you'll find a carb'd EJ22 from the factory over here.  If you do find a carb'd unit it'll be a DIY setup.

 

All Australian delivered EJs are EFI.  If you can read a wiring diagram they're not that hard to fit to an MY or L series - just do your research.  I did my own on Ruby Scoo.

 

Gearbox:  You could fit the AWD box from the EJ series, but your gearing will be out due to the change in tyre diametre between the models.  One way around this is to fit an L series gearbox with adaptor plate, or you gut an EJ AWD box, keep the front half cases and fit the internals of the L series gearbox to the EJ front cases.  This gets around the need for an adaptor plate and modified flywheel so you can run all factory EJ equipment.  Works a treat.

 

Don't forget to check out ausubaru for more "local" rides and conversions

Cheers
 

Bennie

[el_freddo]

As for rims, once you know what you need to do brake wise, these are great factory stud pattern aftermarket rims at a good price IMO:

 

  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-STEEL-RIMS-SUNRAYSIA-STYLE-BRISBANE-SUBARU-BRUMBY-14X6-4X140-BLACK-/182089884123?hash=item2a656721db:g:580AAOSwgQ9VzS7i

 

^ Black.  White:

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-STEEL-RIMS-SUNRAYSIA-STYLE-BRISBANE-SUBARU-BRUMBY-14X6-4X140-WHITE-/281974059729?hash=item41a6f6b2d1:g:GxAAAOSw~gRVzS4a

 

Cheers

Bennie

[Lecardor]

ok so it turns out getting a carbi ej22 is harder than i though, and installing a carb is apparently just as hard as wiring the ecu up.

is there any step by step guide that could help me get the wiring done, i really want to do this conversion but i need help on how to install an ecu based engine into my brumby

 

remember i have an entire year to get this done so time is not a problem, I would really appreciate any links to guides and ect on how to do it

[dfoyl]

No real step by step guide exists as there are so many variables in donor car. Typically an earlier engine will be easier to wire, but if you want 100kw as a minimum your options are really EJ25 (an EJ22 will just scrape over the line, assuming it's not worn out - which is fairly likely as EJ22's stopped around 2000 from memory in AUS and most in junkyards will have about 300k on the odometer). Or EJ20T, which is another whole level of complexity (and will be DOHC, so you're into cutting the chassis rails, which definitely needs an engineering certificate). Try to avoid engines post-2004 as the wiring just gets harder.

 

So your likely donor car needs to be a SG Forester or similar with the EJ25 SOHC.

 

A carb isn't anyway near as hard to wire up, but you do need some special bits and you're leaving power behind (~10%) by downgrading to a carb setup.

[Lecardor]

ill be fine with the power of the ej22 i think, as for the wiring apparently you can get some auto electricians to do it for you, does anyone know anybody in brisbane who does it and how much they cost?

and i have found an ej22 out of a 1996 rallyeye auto, now im pretty sure the engine being from an auto car doesnt matter to much but ill need an adaptor plate for the gearbox, any help?

Edited July 28, 2016 by Lecardor

[dfoyl]

There's a guy on AUSubaru who is in northern NSW who can strip the loom for you, and it is then a very easy job for a half-competent auto elec to hook it up. Don't know of anyone in Brisbane.

 

Auto to manual is easy, I did the same thing.

 

Adaptor plate - I bought mine from on here - check the classifieds section. www.sjrlift.com also sells them. There's a guy in WA (that's WA, AUS - not WA, USA) who does them also, but is pretty hard to get hold of. I'd get one from the US, they are fairly bulky but postage wouldn't be terribly expensive (it's aluminium and basically only a thin round circle, just a large circle!). You *can* make your own with a jigsaw and some drilling & tapping.

[el_freddo]

A mate of mine in WA (Aust) does them when he can.  That'll set you back about $400 for a basic engine loom cut down, more if you want the relays etc for thermo fan operation, plus the cost of postage there and back.

 

Get a Gen1 s2 EJ22 and wiring loom - to cut it down all I did initially was label each plug from the engine/engine bay, then from the plugs worked my way back taping up all the relevant wires from those plugs.  Once back into the main loom you can cut out the wiring that is not taped up (I put tape at about 10 -15 cm intervals depending on where it was in the loom).

By the end of it you'll end up with about 10 wires:

- permanent power

- back up power

- ignition power

- starter wire

- fuel pump wire

- oil light wire (if not using the factory one)

- temp wire (again, if not using the factory one)

- vehicle speed sensor wire (dunno what you do there with the MYs as I don't know if they have a reed switch in the instrument cluster like the L series do)

- AC fan relay cut wire

- I think there was a thermo fan wire in there as well - or something of the like anyway.

 

I used to have a good page with the wiring diagrams to reference, but it's since been taken down by the owner for whatever reason

 

I found the wiring to be good fun and the most challenging bit of the build after I messed around with the gearbox cases - that bit turned out to be relatively easy.  The wiring gets messy and you start to think "what have I just got myself into?"  But moving on will see the job done.

Also a floor test of your wiring is a good idea - if it won't start etc and it's not due to fuel pressure or the engine itself, the wiring is very easy to access as it's not in the vehicle yet (and don't tape it up before this point if you're going to do it!).

 

Cheers

Bennie

[Lecardor]

well ive got the engine (ej22 1996 liberty rallye), and after some more research people have been saying apparently changing the transmission is a good idea but i dont know what transmission would be good for the ej22 brumby. im looking for manual / easy to find / relatively cheap and need to know what has to be done if i change the transmission.

 

and whats the deal with the fuel pump? some people are saying you need a pump off an ea81t or ea82t. but these are extremely rare, is there any fuel pumps that would be easier to find, or would it be possible to use the ej pump somehow

 

also i am picking up the engine in around 2 weeks time, is there anything else i might need from it?

 

-thanks

Edited August 2, 2016 by Lecardor

[dfoyl]

Transmission - EA82 into an EJ housing is the easiest if you can do it. Otherwise EA82 with adaptor plate. Note there are two different EA82 - 3.7 and 3.9 ratio - change your diff to suit. The MPFI has a different spline count (23 vs 25 from memory) so you need to mix-and-match CV's. Finding a good cheap used EA82 box is getting tough. Absolute best would be a AWD box from a RX, but these are very difficult to find.

 

Fuel pump - most people use the early VN Holden external fuel pump (or VL Nissan engine) but they go pretty quick at the wrecker. I used a new FuelMiser brand from eBay, which is extremely noise even on insulated rubber. Looking at boxing it up.

 

You will need the complete wiring loom, ECU, etc. Y-pipe would also be good as you can re-use it. Catalytic converter also, as your MY will be too small.

[Lecardor]

everything is going good, got the engine / gearbox / ecu and i know someone who is able to do a custom loom. but one huge issue ive encountered is the adaptor plate, does anyone know someone in australia that does them? also what should i do about the clutch - change it? leave it? Mod it?

 

btw - the gearbox is a D/R 4x4 5spd off an ea82 MPFI, the CV's arent problem i have a friend who knows how to do that

Edited October 4, 2016 by Lecardor

[dfoyl]

Paul / RSR performance in WA does them but is MIA at the moment. I would *strongly* recommend getting them from the US member here.

 

You know about the flywheel mod's required ?

[Lecardor]

http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/engine-swap-parts/ea-to-ej-swap-kit-detail

 

What about this? after this and a clutch kit would i be set to match the gearbox to the engine and rest of the car?

Edited September 2, 2016 by Lecardor

[dfoyl]

Haven't seen that before. I think the cost of shipping the flywheel would be prohibitive given the weight, it can be done locally at any half-competent machinist.

[Lecardor]

this could be a dumb question, but i have looked up for ages and cant find a thing on it.

 

i dislike the way the front of the car is lower than the back so that it tilts downward. is there a way to lower the rear or raise the front so that the car is level.

[dfoyl]

Raise the front by changing the springs but your handling will get worse. Make sure to get a wheel alignment when you make any changes. You will also increase the already positive camber which will chew out your outer tyre edges.

 

Lower the rear - three options. 1. Minor adjustment by turning the ride height bolt in the tray (under one of the rubber boots). Make sure there is no load on the vehicle while doing this, ie. put it on a service rack or put up on stands (only the rear). 2. Major adjustment by clocking the axles (take to an older VW mechanic, it's the same concept as Beetle's used, or do it yourself but be careful not to pull the half-shaft out too far when rotating). 3. Put something heavy in the back

[Lecardor]

the plan of the brumby was always to convert the wheels to 5x100 reasons being there they are very common / easy wheels to get, and not to mention they look fantastic . however i have looked and looked how i can do this and cant find a thing! some people say its not even possible, but i know this is false because i have seen many custom brumbies with a 5x100 stud pattern. one option said was to get subaru vortex (also called xt6) hubs, these are so rare i dont think its a possible option, does anyone know where i could get adaptors or such that will work.

[dfoyl]

I am making up a batch of XT6 hubs, but until I have them in hand I won't be offering them up FS as I don't know timing.

 

Adaptors are not uncommon but are definitely illegal down under. The one major advantage of adaptors is you can use standard Subaru wheels as the adaptor acts as a spacer which means the higher positive offset of modern Subaru wheels (typically +48mm, up to +53mm on WRX's) counterbalances the change from OEM 4x140 PCD wheels (+42mm on a Brumby from memory). And don't forget Brumby wheels are heavily offset inwards from stock - I was running +25mm offset Peugeot wheels and they were still somewhat inboard to modern cars. The ideal offset for a Brumby would be between +25 and +30, which makes it very difficult to find cheap OEM wheels (Audi / VW are about the only option). The disadvantage is you are still running stock brakes, which are fine for an EA81 but less than adequate for your EJ plans...it would definitely get knocked back by an engineer.

 

The other option is to go 6 stud, which gives you access to most 4wd wheels (except Hilux, which are 5x100). Of course, many 4wd wheels are a lot heavier than needed for a Brumby as they designed for 2+ ton vehicles and a Brumby is half that...

[Lecardor]

if you are making a batch of these hubs, how much would you be willing to sell them for when available? and could you give me shout when they are? (very interested) 

 

also what brake options will the new hubs offer, and is there lifting of the vehicle required to fit the larger 15" 5x100 wheels? if so by what amount. (trying to achieve a more on-road sports ute look, like the image below of the style im aiming for, minus the massive front mounted inter cooler)

http://www.weblogsinc.com/common/images/7829472159425683.jpg?0.2500580413835115

Edited September 6, 2016 by Lecardor

[dfoyl]

See my other thread further down the page of this section of the forum for info to date (titled EOI on 5x100 / 5x114.3). You can fit any EJ brakes except 04+ STI which run the larger PCD. I started with stock Forester rear backing plates and discs (266mm) and then went to WRX (290mm). If your wheels are large enough to clear the calipers you can go to any version you want, even aftermarket will bolt up as long as it's not STi specific (I think some STi has thicker discs ?).

 

Lifting is dependant on tyre size. If you want to keep the same overall rolling diameter then the wheel size goes up but the tyre profile comes down. A 15" wheel will be around a 55 profile, a 16" will be a 45 profile, a 17 would be a 35 profile. The blue one in your picture is probably running the WRX 16's with spacers (and/or adaptors), with a 45 profile. Note 15's will not clear most larger brake setups. If you stick with stock 70 or 75 profile tyres you're going to have problems regardless of wheel size - even 14's with 70 profile would be a tight fit on an un-lifted Brumby.

[Lecardor]

so how much lift would the 16" 45 profile wheels require?, and is there anything else other than the xt6 hubs required to make it work?

and what should the width of the wheel be?

 

also i took a bit of a gander at your forum page and you seem to think 5x114.3 would be better for the brumby, do you think this would be a better option for me? and what brakes would i have to get with the 16" 45

 

cheers!

Edited September 6, 2016 by Lecardor

[dfoyl]

No lift on 16's with 45 profile - within 1% of stock rolling diameter so speedo is correct.

You need to modify the (EJ 4-bolt) backing plate to suit the 3-bolt Brumby design - info is in the other thread. "Can" be done with a hand drill and file if you're careful and can measure. I prefer to weld up the old holes as well but that's more aesthetic than necessary. Brumby's use a front hand brake design, EJ's use a rear, so you need to run the handbrakes from the rear backing plates to the handbrake handle in the cab and fab up a suitable solutions (options are use an EJ handbrake, which is designed to suit, run the handbrake cables to the front of the car and then loop around to the front of the handle and use the stock Brumby hand-brake (you will need longer cables to do this, I believe some Magna's (Diamante's to our US readers) are suitable), or modify your Brumby handbrake to pull from the back instead of the front (this is what I did, by bolting part of the EJ mechanism to the Brumby handle).

 

The 5x114.3 concept I ended up killing off, simply because I no longer had a need and most people don't have access to suitable donor Subaru's with that PCD (STI's, Tribeca's, and SVX).

 

16" wheels will take any factory brake option except I think 04+ STi...this is rear-specific obviously, for fronts it's a different story (eg. you can't fit 04+ Liberty GT front rotors & calipers under 16's).