Narrowing a starting problem

[psychoSpaniel]

Greetings all,

 

2003 Subaru Legacy (non-wagon).  Initially had intermittent starting issues.  If left to sit or most times a jump-start would fix it.  New battery, same issue.  New starter, would not start at all.  Battery terminals and fuses all appear good.  Ignition switch lights all indicators.  In key starting position, does not give a loud solenoid click like I would expect.  Voltmeter on ignition lead to starter gives me about 2v with key in the starting position.  Key in start position does not dim or otherwise affect other indicators.

 

If key is in run position, I can start car with a jumper between the battery and the ignition spade on the starter solenoid.

 

Have pulled the steering column lower shroud and have 12v on the of  the 4 terminals on the ignition switch when in the run position.  In start position, the 4th position gets 12v and one of the existing positions that had 12 in run drops to about 2v.  Bridging between contacts on the back of the start switch does not roll the starter.

 

Reading codes did show a P1518 (ignition start low) which has not come back since cleared.

 

Picking up a manual later today, but looking for ideas on where to look.  A lot of suggestions pointing to a starter relay, which I'm yet to be able to find.  Other suggestions point to the park/neutral switch - some say is accessed by moving the shroud by the shifter, others from below on the side of the tranny - not sure where to look for either one.  Running the gear-shift through the gears with the key in start position has no effect, other than you can hear a relay "clunk" whenever you go to pull it out of park.

 

Any ideas on how to narrow this down further guys?

 

Thanks,

Rob

[Bantum]

You seem to have it nutted out - It would be something in the start circuit that has come loose / worn out like the ignition ...

A simple fix may be to install a new relay as below :
 

Otherwise maybe looking at replacing the ignition lock ...

Cheers, Bantum ...
 

[1 Lucky Texan]

kinda wondering about a battery cable issue(corrosion can 'wick' down under the insulation). - though successful jump-starting seems to exonerate them? Still, measuring the voltage drop across the battery cable - or even feeling if it gets hot might be a good idea.

Edited July 21, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[psychoSpaniel]

Thanks for the thoughts guys.  Unfortunately no joy on either.  Battery cables are fine as I can easily start the car if I put the ignition switch in run, and run a jumper between the starter solenoid and the hot side of the battery.

 

The relay I might be able to do, but the starting lead TO the starter only shows 0.2 vdc when the key is in the start position.  (I incorrectly stated that as 2vdc in my original post).  Its a definite voltage, but not enough to kick a relay.  The only way I can see making that work would be to run a new wire the whole way into the ignition switch, which would bypass the transmission park/neutral switch.

 

As far as I can tell there's no security system other than what may be factory (annoying beep(s) when you lock/unlock the car remotely).  The manual makes reference to a starting relay but I'll be damned if I can figure out where it is or what it looks like.  The manual makes it look like it's somewhere under the dash, but nothing definitively marked.  The best I've been able to do is swap relays at the fuse box under the hood and 2 below the steering column of like part numbers - no change in conditions.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

Cheers,

Rob

[1 Lucky Texan]

brake pedal switch ?

[mikec03]

I don't totally understand the OP's data.  When the OP is measuring the ignition voltage [0.2 V], is the spade connected to the starter?  In other words, if the OP disconnects the ignition wire [spade connection] from the starter, connects it to a voltage meter, and then turns the ignition to start, will he read 12 volts on the meter?    

[DaveT]

There are at least a few connectors in the wiring from the start switch to the back of the starter. One or more is high resistance. Or the switches.

[psychoSpaniel]

The voltage taken on the starter solenoid lead is as follows:

 

Solenoid lead removed from starter solenoid.  Voltmeter connected between lead and - terminal on battery.  Turn ignition switch to START position.  Voltage read on solenoid lead is 0.2vdc.

 

I have a new transmission range (neutral safety) switch on order and will install tomorrow.  Still trying to figure out where in blazes the starting relay on this thing is, if anyone has info on that.

 

Cheers,

Rob

[Fairtax4me]

On auto trans there is an interlock relay for the security system, but I don't remember if there is another one.

 

The Nuetral switch is on the side of the transmission and is kind of tricky to access. If you suspect that, try starting with the shifter in neutral, or turn the key to start and wiggle the shifter back and forth some.

 

Since you have a contact at the ignition switch that is dropping near 0v when the key is turned to start position, it would help to know which color wire is connected to that contact.

Edited July 23, 2016 by Fairtax4me

[Cougar]

This is a common problem and most of the time the trouble is due to the safety switch contacts being dirty. The type of switch depends on what transmission is used. Since you have a new switch on order that will most likely fix the issue.

 

The starting relay may be in the relay panel next to the dash fuses.