SOHC 2.0L Vs EJ205 9:1 engine run as N/A?

[matt167]

I'm preparing and researching to replace my '01 Foresters engine and trans.. I just discovered that the front differential carrier ( T support ) is cracked and split. Inexpensive but a bit extra work to replace

 

Since the car is still solid but is still worn out 230k miles and other stuff should be replaced before adding hp. I'm debating just replacing with a SOHC 2.0L since they are like $650 VS a USDM 2.5 will run around $1k.. But when you combine a 4.44 trans with a SOHC 2.0L, there really is no discount. Be about $1,100 shipped vs about $600 more than that to get a EJ205/5spd combo which gets everything to turbo except ECU/ aux tuning and crossmember

 

With the EJ205 running 9:1 compression, would the engine be a turd without a turbo? I know the 10:1 SOHC makes 120-155hp depending on who you ask

 

 

[idosubaru]

The couple people i've heard about/read about online that ran turbo blocks without any forced induction said the cars ran and drove fine to get from A to B, most people say it's a terrible idea.

 

I think it comes down to your usage and evironment. 

 

i swapped an EJ18 into an EJ25 equipped automatic legacy.  i went from 160hp to 110 hp. probably almost identical to the change youll see. 

 

when i traveled to flatland - it wasn't even really noticeable - not a fast car but did just fine, i'd do it again if i lived in Ohio, central/easter maryland, down south...

in the mountains where i live now - 6% grades with large 16" wheels and tires and 4 adult heavy male passengers - it was struggling and couldn't maintain interstate speed, had to downshift.

So I installed smaller wheels and tires to effectively change the gear ratio and that helped a ton. i wouldn't do it again if i needed it for significant weight/mountain usage.

 

so look into smaller wheels/tires if you can. 

if you're towing, carrying lots of weight/passengers, or driving up lots of steep grades that's going to be the deciding factor if it really matters or not. 

 

So if youre concerned about speed then bad idea.  if you just want to get a quarter million mile vehicle drivable again as cheap as possible, then it'll definitely drive and move. 

[matt167]

If I go the turbo engine route, I'll install it on a turbo crossmember so that I can add the turbo later. But with needing the diff carrier, and the fact it should have 4 new struts. It will probably wait a while, since the electronics/ fuel upgrades to run the turbo will cost at least $1k.. I have to be able to safely operate the car like that for a while

 

 

Either way I go, I'm getting a 4.44 transmission/ diff. So going from a 4.11, it's a bit lower and will absorb some loss