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2000 OBW no start overnight


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Just finished putting rebuilt heads on awhile back, new timing components etc. Car has been running great for a week and then overnight it won't start. I'm getting fuel to the TB, and I'm getting spark.

 

Did I jump a tooth on my timing belt? Bad cam or crank sensor?

 

Thanks!

Clinton

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Photos of my timing belt marks are attached.  Can't get a good angle on the passengers side, but it's at 12, with the dash lining up with the crack/seam in the head.  Crank and drivers came are both at 12 as well.

 

Also pulled out the fuel pump to look a the O-ring, but I don't really see any canister like my research described... certainly nothing that was 2-1/8" at least.  Everything else in there looked ok to me, no o-rings peeking out anywhere.

 

Any other thoughts are appreciated!!!  I have spark, my timing appears to be accurate, fuel runs out on the engine side of the filter when I turn the key to 'on' as well as when i'm cranking.... but It still won't start!

 

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well, that fuel pump is a surprise to me. Does it seem original?

 

and I don't like how that TB seems to be walking off the front of the crank sprocket.

 

 

at this point, I'm wondering about fuel pressure, maybe find a way to measure it. Or perhaps someone knows a way to test that fuel pump on the bench?

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Ok, so yesterday I took a closer look at the timing belt and it looked like it might have been slightly off so I went ahead and removed everything, slowly compressed the tensioner (over like 2 hours) and then reinstalled everything... Tried a couple seperate times again to start it afterwards and got nothing...

 

Today I got home and looked at the timing again, and lo and behold it looks to be off!  What's the deal?  I've done the belt before so I know my marks are on when I pull the pin on the tensioner.  Is the tensioner bad?  It's fairly old, but had never been used.... and the car ran great for two days.  Could the computer have been compensating for it slipping, and then when we went out to start it the next day it was too far out for the computer to let it start?

 

Photos below... it's the drivers side that looks to be off, by a tooth in the direction of the crank.  Is that enough to cause a no start condition as well as produce a backfire out the intake?  I would have thought that it would still run a tooth off, if badly.

 

Thanks for any and all input!

 

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I don't like to go by the notches in the timing covers. Timing covers are plastic and they can be persuaded into moving. How far off is it from the seam in the head? 

 

But even if its only a tooth off it should still start and run. 

 

Does it have a MAF sensor? 

 

Does your code reader show live data? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had a similar problem last year.  Just finished a timing belt/water pump replacement, car would run great but overnight, I couldn't get enough juice to fire the engine in the morning.  I replaced the alternator, and used three new batteries.  I listen to the radio a lot, and especially enjoy the CD player.  I began to notice that when I would leave a CD in, the car would not start in the morning, but if the CD player was left empty, it would start every time.  So, as long as I do not leave a CD in the player, which evidently continued to drain the voltage from my battery, I no longer have the issue of the car not starting, and no longer have to waste my money buying alternators that I don't need, or wasting money on Optima and Interstate batteries.  This may not be your problem at all, but, then again. . .

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  • 6 months later...

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