Tups needed on removing transmission 03 LL bean outback

[Lverano]

I have decided I will be removing my transmission, probably within the next six months and I'd like to tackle this task from the bottom so is there any major things I want to look out for taking on this task from the bottom?

 

Should I unbolt the engine will I need to tilt that or anything, or, Will there be any problems with the big bolts that anchor the transmission to the body are they known to strip or have a hard time coming out?

Thanks, keep me posted Subaru family.

[AdventureSubaru]

If the underside is extra rusty I have snapped a couple crossmember bolts in the past. But this was wisconsin cars older than yours. Have some PB baster or similar just in case.

 

It's pretty straightforward. drain transmission. Remove the exhaust. Remove the driveshaft. Disconnect wiring. disconnect cooler hoses.remove the axle pins. remove the 4 flex plate to torque converter bolts via the access port on the passenger side back of the motor. remove the trans to motor bolts/nuts and starter. disconnect the dog bone /upper trans mount. Slowly disconnect the transmission crossmembers. It does help to jack up the front of the motor so the trans can slide back. After the trans is back a couple inches you can pry the axles off. lower it to the ground and swap.

 

Takes a solid day to do it.

 

Did one with a trans jack and one with ratcheting straps around the bottom of the car. Well worth the price of a rental for a trans jack.

 

Also make sure the torque converter on the new trans is fully seated before install or it will crush the pump and kill the trans before it ever drives. There are a few writeups on here. I measure between the starter hole and the back of the torque converter and there should only be 1/8 of an inch of space between the two if it's fully seated.

Edited September 12, 2016 by AdventureSubaru

[CNY_Dave]

If you use a transmission jack to move the trans out from under the car you have to get the car very high.

[Lverano]

If the underside is extra rusty I have snapped a couple crossmember bolts in the past. But this was wisconsin cars older than yours. Have some PB baster or similar just in case.

 

It's pretty straightforward. drain transmission. Remove the exhaust. Remove the driveshaft. Disconnect wiring. disconnect cooler hoses.remove the axle pins. remove the 4 flex plate to torque converter bolts via the access port on the passenger side back of the motor. remove the trans to motor bolts/nuts and starter. disconnect the dog bone /upper trans mount. Slowly disconnect the transmission crossmembers. It does help to jack up the front of the motor so the trans can slide back. After the trans is back a couple inches you can pry the axles off. lower it to the ground and swap.

 

Takes a solid day to do it.

 

Did one with a trans jack and one with ratcheting straps around the bottom of the car. Well worth the price of a rental for a trans jack.

 

Also make sure the torque converter on the new trans is fully seated before install or it will crush the pump and kill the trans before it ever drives. There are a few writeups on here. I measure between the starter hole and the back of the torque converter and there should only be 1/8 of an inch of space between the two if it's fully seated.

Thank you so much. Yes I know all about the torque converter. I'm just afraid if I jostle the transmission while putting it in, it'll come unseated. I plan to push and turn and push and turn until that thing is seated full, I have already learned a hard less on this with an 01 outback I had.

 

As for the cross memeber I'll just use a good heavy 1/2 in socket with long ratchet and creep it out. A little out and a little in back and forth with the blaster or kroil oil.

[Lverano]

 

If you use a transmission jack to move the trans out from under the car you have to get the car very high.

How high?

[AdventureSubaru]

Thank you so much. Yes I know all about the torque converter. I'm just afraid if I jostle the transmission while putting it in, it'll come unseated. I plan to push and turn and push and turn until that thing is seated full, I have already learned a hard less on this with an 01 outback I had.

 

As for the cross memeber I'll just use a good heavy 1/2 in socket with long ratchet and creep it out. A little out and a little in back and forth with the blaster or kroil oil.

 

It doesn't pop out super easily. I make sure it's fully seated before beginning the install and take a measurement between the front of the starter hole and the back of the torque converter. Once the trans is sitting on the lower two guide pins/bolts of the motor and is ready to be slid and bolted together I double check just in case. Never had one come out during reinstall though. It's only ever been while pulling the trans.

[idosubaru]

Lift engine so you can also tilt it back (engine up, trans lower).

If you've got rust issues now is the time to also lift the engine and replace/inspect/wire brush/paint the coolant cross over pipe on the drivers side underneath of the engine - they're prone to rust and leakage.

 

The exhaust is the only commonly problematic bolts on this job. I usually just plan on cutting them off or hope they shear off. Around here they're almost pointless to even try removing, they're always rusted terribly. The trans crossmembers rarely have rust issues, i've never seen it, nothing like the common rear suspension rust issues. Use 6 point sockets. Take long breaks between turns to let them cool down if they're tight.

 

Removing the axles helps get clearance for removing the lower nuts and eases removal/install, but technically you can just pop them off the stub and push/pull them around as needed, it's just annoying to do so for trans removal/install.

Lighting, old carpets/rugs, and glasses (for rust/debris falling in your eyes) help a lot when working underneath.

 

Also having good access to all your tools - crawling under and out 15 times in a row for various sockets, wrenches, pliers, lights, extensions, etc - gets old.

 

You do need room but I've also dropped them with not much room - then once they're on the ground, just jack up one side of the car to slide it out from underneath. If you're just going to muscle it out and in by hand, which i've done, it's almost nicer to have it as low as possible so the thing has less far to go - depending how and on what you're dropping it. I've pulled beefy automatics onto my chest before by hand and in those cases I wouldn't want them to be dropping a foot.

 

But more room is helpful - just for access, arm movement, tool useage, lighting...not just trans clearance. But in general you could just measure the trans top-bottom - what's that roughly 2 feet - so you'd need 2 feet of clearance for the bellhousing....roughly.

Edited September 13, 2016 by grossgary

[CNY_Dave]

I have the bigger HF transmission jack- I had to have the rear jacked up with jack stands with a 2x10 underneath each jack stand, and the front was on good jack stands with I think 2 pieces of 2x10 under each one.

 

I have a decent floor jack and needed to put a 4x4 on it to raise the car high enough.

 

The jack has a height of about 8.5 inches, pretty high

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html

Edited September 13, 2016 by CNY_Dave

[idosubaru]

oh right when i've dropped them with little room i was just pulling by hand, no trans jack. 

 

you can also rig up an engine lift, come along, cables to support the trans from above as well as you pull it.