Another alternator swap... From a Ford.

[Tims Toy 500]

I scored a 95 amp alternator from a friend for -=FREE=-. It's off of a 96 Ford Ranger. (Why couldn't he own an Altima?) Fabbing up some brackets to mount it will be a cinch. However, I don't have the slightest clue how to wire it up.

I searched and found plenty of info on Altima and GM swaps. Most are so old though, the pictures (link) are dead... But nothing on what wire is for what. And yes. Google returned some images that confused me even more. (But that's for a different forum.)

The first thing I noticed, the Subi's alternator has a bolted on wire and a plug for 2 wires. Also a separate ground wire. The new alternator off the Ranger has a plug for three wires, another plug for 1 wire and big bolt on wire. I can guess that the bolt on connections & ground are the same. But what colored (old) wires go to, what connection? And it appears I'll be a few wires short...

Can somebody point me in the right direction?

 

Thanks!

 

-Tim

[DaveT]

You will need a new heavier output wire, the stock one is too thin, and the fusible link will blow out. Those pictures look like some sort of aftermarket high output add on. To even try to figure out the control wiring, I'd need the Spec sheets with schematics and or schematics of the original vehicle it came stock in.

[TomRhere]

http://graph.darren-criss.org/2016/02/11/ford-ranger-alternator-wiring-diagram-l-dfaf2e8074fb2415.gif

[Tims Toy 500]

Lets start with the basics then; How heavy wire and fusible link do i need?

 

Also by the diagram in the first post it looks like (there) green wire could just hook to one of the subi's wires... Yellow or stripped?

 

I'll see what i can dig up on the ford ranger to help.

 

-Thanks!

[ANIM_Hooneru]

Hey mate,

That alternator should have its current rating written on a label on it somewhere, by looking at it I would say its at least 90/100amp and it appears to be a Bosch style unit simalar to what they run on the Transit Vans.

 

 

Should be a good swap, the Bosch gear is generally Star-Wound which means it charges quite well even at idle speeds.

 

 

What you need to do is grab your hands on a MIDI Fuseholder and suitable amperage fuse for the output of the unit. The Midi fuses are good because they are high current handling and also the Fuseholders mount flat on a panel, and the cables are bolted down to the fuse, ensuring a good mechanical connection.

 

 

From the B+ terminal on the back of the Ranger Alternator, run an 8B+S Cable cable to the Midi-Fuseholder, then from the other side of the Midi-Fuseholder to the Battery Terminal on the Starter Motor Solenoid.
 

The S Terminal (Phase) needs to pick up off of one of the Stator Windings, so loop it back to the Phase Terminal as shown in the picture you uploaded.
 

The A Terminal (Sense) needs to be connected to the Positive Battery Terminal, not to the B+ on the back of the Alternator. The A Terminal is a Sense Terminal, and its function is to increase Voltage Output of the Alternator to Compensate for Voltage Drop down the Charge Lead (The cable from the B+ Terminal to the Positive side of the Battery). The IC Regulator won't do its job to full efficiency if you loop it to the B+ terminal, and the result could be a Battery which is undercharged, and with you guys in the Northern Hemisphere coming into Winter, that is something you don't want.

 

 

Your original Subaru Alternator has a Sense Terminal, labeled as an S. The S Terminal in the 2-pin Plug is the top of the T. So join the "A" Terminal on the Ranger Alternator, to the "S" Terminal of the Subaru Plug.

 

 

The I (Warning Lamp) Terminal needs to go to the Warning Lamp Circuit in the Subaru. The Subaru Alternator also has this in its Factory 2-pin Plug, and it is the Bottom of the T. Join the "I" Terminal on the Ranger Alternator, to the "L" Terminal of the Subaru Plug.

 

 

 

That should be all there is to it, if you get stuck send me a PM and i'll walk you through it. The hardest thing about the swap will be getting the the Pad Mount Bracketry made right to obtain the correct Pulley spacing. I'm an Auto Electrician by trade however I hate hate HATE fabricating, so good luck to you! Glad its you not me making the brackets!

 

Let us know how you get on!

Edited September 20, 2016 by ANIM_Hooneru

[ihscout54]

Have you tried to swap pulleys yet?

[DaveT]

What ANIM wrote sounds good.

[loyale1993]

Just buy a stock alternator and boom problem solved! lol

[Tims Toy 500]

Have you tried to swap pulleys yet?

 

Two months later, we're back... Here is what I've done:

 

The old stock pulley won't bolt on. I didn't figure it would but I tried anyways. A quick search at Summit Racing yielded a pulley by Powermaster, part number 118.

 

Fast forward a week later I got my new pulley and found that the back spacing wasn't right. So, I added a washer behind it. That was enough to let it spin freely.

.

[Tims Toy 500]

Next task: Mounting the alternator to the existing mount.

 

I found a steel plate at the local hardware store. It looks to be the base of a wrought iron fence. After some measurements I laid out the necessary holes on the plate. I learned that a line threw the hole centers on the alternator is not perpendicular to the pulley. That would have made it too easy.

 

What you don't see in the attached image is; I made a jig that sat on top of the crank pulley and water pump pulley. It came up so I could measure from the pulley center-line to the Subaru mount. Then I made a guesstimate of where I wanted the plate to sit and welded 2 thick washers to it. 

 

A few washers for shims on the stock pivot bolt to help with fore & aft adjustment, a couple large bolts to mount the alternator, and it has a new home. Just by chance, the bolts for the lower control arms were laying on top of the radiator and I needed large bolts to mount the alternator... They fit perfectly.  Temporarily of course.

.

[Tims Toy 500]

On to the alternator adjuster bracket:

 

Two things had to happen here. Since the new mount pushed the alternator a little more outward, I had to make an extension for it. Yes, that's the... Was the "L" shaped bracket that attached the garage door to the opener. It was late and I was determined to get this thing done.

 

Secondly; The adjuster doesn't mate to the alternator. I had to make another bracket with along bolt to go through the alternator and a short bolt ninety'd to go through the adjuster bracket.

.

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

That is pretty interesting,

 

you've done a good job here on the Swap and also on the informative photos.

 

Thank you for sharing your experience. May I ask how is the Alignment of the Belt?

 

Kind Regards.

[Tims Toy 500]

That is pretty interesting,

 

you've done a good job here on the Swap and also on the informative photos.

 

Thank you for sharing your experience. May I ask how is the Alignment of the Belt?

 

Kind Regards.

 

Thank you.

 

The alignment appears to be spot on. I fired up the motor, gave a few revs and the belt didn't jump-off... yet.

 

It took some time to figure out but the jig I made allowed me to square-up the crank pulley and water pump pulley to the alternator pulley. Then I made LOTS of measurements.

 

More to come... I still need to follow ANIM_Hooneru's wiring instructions.

.

[Tims Toy 500]

Oh, and because the alternator is now a bit outboard of its original location I had to get a new belt. 2 trips and 8 belts later I found that 38 5/8 inch was a tight fit but the best option.

 

On to wiring.

 

 

What you need to do is grab your hands on a MIDI Fuseholder and suitable amperage fuse for the output of the unit.

 

Got it; and made an easy "L" bracket to mount it to the trans bell housing...

 

 

From the B+ terminal on the back of the Ranger Alternator, run an 8B+S Cable cable to the Midi-Fuseholder, then from the other side of the Midi-Fuseholder to the Battery Terminal on the Starter Motor Solenoid.

 

Ok. I'm not sure what "8B+S" is but my guess, that's 8 gauge here. Found some left over from a previous project. Done...

 

 

 

The S Terminal (Phase) needs to pick up off of one of the Stator Windings, so loop it back to the Phase Terminal as shown in the picture you uploaded.

 

Easy: done...

 

 

Your original Subaru Alternator has a Sense Terminal, labeled as an S. The S Terminal in the 2-pin Plug is the top of the T. So join the "A" Terminal on the Ranger Alternator, to the "S" Terminal of the Subaru Plug.

 

 

The I (Warning Lamp) Terminal needs to go to the Warning Lamp Circuit in the Subaru. The Subaru Alternator also has this in its Factory 2-pin Plug, and it is the Bottom of the T. Join the "I" Terminal on the Ranger Alternator, to the "L" Terminal of the Subaru Plug.

 

Wha? That's odd.   Mine's labeled differently than that. Top of my "T" is "N" and the bottom is "F".

Oh well. Easy enough. Done and done.

 

That should be it.

.

 

[Tims Toy 500]

This is weird and at first doesn't seem related, but bear with me... Earlier I said:

 

 

The alignment appears to be spot on. I fired up the motor, gave a few revs and the belt didn't jump-off... yet.

 

What I didn't mention is; the motor died after the "few revs" and I didn't think anything of it. I turned off the ignition switch and moved on to wiring.

 

After finishing up the wiring side of things. I got in the seat, hit the starter and the engine cranked, but it didn't start. I squirted some starter fluid in the carb, it fired up (as expected) and died shortly after. A few more times and the same result.

 

It's running off the starter fluid so I can conclude there's spark at the plugs.

 

Then I noticed that there was no fuel visible in the sight glass of the float bowl... Yep. The (new) fuel pump isn't pumping.

 

In effort to fault isolate, I attached the pump wires directly to the battery. The pump works!  Back to the terminal... Nope!   So, it's not the pump.

 

After tracing the pump wires I found that they lead directly back to the old voltage regulator. By eliminating the original (white) alternator power lead to the battery I killed power to the fuel pump.

 

This is where I need your help folks. My question is:

 

Can I attach the old (white) alternator power lead to the alternator in conjunction with the new (red) alternator power lead to power everything else and (possibly) not blow the fusible links?

 

Or should I be asking... The new alternator has its own internal regulator, right?

How do I delete the old one and keep everything working?

 

What are your thoughts?

.

[DaveT]

You have discovered the fuel safety shutoff circuitry. If the engine stops running, the fuel pump is shut down. Think of a rollover or other accident the ruptures the fuel line.

[Tims Toy 500]

That makes sense ... So, whats the fix? Attach the old wire or delete the old regulator? 

[Just4Fun]

How about rewiring the pump and put it in-line with an oil pressure switch to keep the safety cut-off. That way when the engine dies the pump dies too.

[Tims Toy 500]

I like the idea. But, my concern is that there may be something else directly taped into the old regulator that I haven't found yet.

[ANIM_Hooneru]

Gday Tim,

 

Sorry mate i've been offline for about a week,

 

I didn't even consider for a minute that you had the External Regulated alternator, which the wiring is slightly different.

 

I personally havn't had an E/R Alternator on any of my Subarus so I can't give you any insight...can you please take a photo of the wiring arrangement on the External Regulator?

 

As the other fellas here have pointed out, there is a Fuel Pump Saftey system that is built into these cars that relys on an Induced Pulse Signal, from my experience it has been from the Negative side of the Coil, in your situation, it seems to be pulled out of a Phase of the Alternator.

 

I'm pretty sure I have worked it out in my head what needs to be changed, but I want to see the wiring to the E/R first so I can get it right so you don't go cursing my name as you let the smoke out of the wires...

Edited December 1, 2016 by ANIM_Hooneru