ClassySoob Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Hey, here soon I am planning on doing an overhaul on my EA82. As of now I am doing as much research as I can. I am currently reading over my repair manual so I know all the procedures by heart. But... I need the break-In procedure for the engine, and what would be the best oil to use during the procedure. Any info could help. -Kind regards Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 No need for break-in if you leave the lower end alone. Very rarely is there a reason to split the block. You won't get much benefit for the work it will require. Most people just do the top end. Do all the seals and rubber you can reach, regardless of if you think they need to be done. Definitely do an oil pump and water pump for reliability. These are just "While you're in there" hard to get to type items. If this is your first time, my advice is to make a disassembly log giving every step a number and writing down what you took apart and label with tape each end of the hose or wire you took off. That way, when you get to putting it back together it is simply a matter of doing each step in reverse. Two years ago I did mine. The cylinders still had the beautiful cross hatching from the factory. You can see my thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147673-uno-my-first/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 Thanks for the advice, ill keep that in mind, but unfortunately I gotta do a ring job on my number 3 cylinder. Might as well do em all when i am in there. I just hope that the wall ain't to badly damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Define overhaul. There's a different break in procedure for different things. I disagree that splitting the case isn't worth it on a high mileage engine. True the cylinders themselves don't wear much at all on these engines. For their time and even today, they were one of the best for maintaining bore diameter. I can't remember ever pulling one apart and finding a ridge at the top indicating wear, but pistons do wear. You need to mic the pistons at 4 points below the oil ring and at the two center points on the skirts to determine wear. If you have low compression and you've ruled out head or valve issues, this needs to be done. Bearings will always wear. More so as they get older and faster as oil pressure declines or the engine is abused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 I plan on tearing it down and putting in new pistons,rings, valves, bearings,and all that. I was told a couple of the valves were worn. So might as well do the whole thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Are you using the old cam or a new/reground one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 Old if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 (edited) Ok, since you're not installing a new cam, this is what I would do. First off, don't use synthetic oil to break in a new engine unless your machine shop has top notch honing equipment to knock the jagged ridges down during the process. Start the engine. If it doesn't fire in the first 30 seconds, find out why. You don't want to be pumping a lot of gas into a new engine. Once it's running, give it about 5 minutes at idle to build some temp. This next step is where things get sticky and there is a lot of disagreement. If you have a manual trans (which most of us do), you can't really do this step stationary and IMO it's too soon to be driving to do it. If you do have an auto, put it in drive, foot on the brake with the E-brake set and load the engine from idle to 3K RPMs. Do this 3 or 4 times per minute and don't hold the RPMs up. Do it for 10 minutes. This will help seat the rings. If you have a manual, raise the idle screw to 1500 RPM and give it 20 minutes like this carefully watching engine temp and oil pressure and checking for any leaks. Check regardless of what tranny you have. For both trannys, let it idle down to normal for 10 minutes after this. Auto: Place in drive, both brakes on again and load the engine as before but taking the RPMs up to roughly 5K if the engine will allow it. 10 minutes for this, and again, don't hold the high RPMs. Manual trans: Now go drive it for 10 minutes where you can stab the accelerator to run from idle to 3K in first gear. Do this 3-4 times per minute for 10 minutes then let idle down for 10 minutes. Repeat this after 10 minutes but go from idle to 5K RPMs. Either trans idles down again for 10 minutes after the last step. Always watch your gauges and check for leaks. This last step is something I do. Take either back up to 1500 for 10 minutes then let idle down for 10 minutes. Shut down, drain the oil and inspect for metal. Dump the oil, clean the pan and cut the filter open to inspect for metal. A little metal is normal. A lot can be ok depending on the size of the flakes. If you found a small to marginal amount, fill the oil, install a new filter then drive normal for 500 miles and change the oil again. If you found a lot of metal, fill and install a new filter and drive normal for 100 miles then change the oil again. Driving 'normal' means randomly accelerating up to 3K-5K RPMs but NOT over 5K and not holding anything over 4K. Avoid long freeway cruising at a stable speed or RPM for the first 1000 miles if at all possible. If you had a lot of metal on the first oil change, recheck at the 100 mile change. If it's minimal, then go 1500 miles and change it again. If it's moderate, go 500, change it, then 1500 and change it. If it's still a lot at the 100 mile change, you've got a problem. After the 1500 mile in either, is 3K miles then every 3K as normal. At the first 3K, you can switch to synthetic if you want to. I know this seems like a lot and I'm probably going to get some flack from others over it, but I've been building performance engines for over 20 years now and I've never had blow by, bearing or valve issues with any of my engines (excluding abuse, intentional or otherwise) after break in. Research engine break in and you'll see what I do is pretty close to what is considered a 'typical' break in. Edited September 27, 2016 by skishop69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 Thanks for the tips. What speed would you recommend for normal driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 You want the speed to vary for the best break in. Anything up to 70 as long as you're not cruising long distance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 About 40 miles till town, is that consider to long? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Yes, during break in, that would be considered too long unless you've got a lot of hills along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 i got three hills between me and town. Oh and I meant 40 like 20 there and 20 back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Ok. As long as you vary the load on the engine and the speed to a degree, you should be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 Ok i will keep that in mind. Which brand or type of oil do you recommend for the break-in process? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 For the initial run up, the cheapest oil you can get. It's not going to have time to break down and your basically taking it home from the store and throwing it in the garbage. You can pretty much go cheap on the second oil change too, then switch to good oil. Castrol, Mobile 1 or Valvoline. Btw, NAPA oil is Valvoline. Shhhh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Best thing to do in my opinion, is to get a good set of after-market oil and temp gauges. Get them installed, keep an eye on them as you drive it around. Oil pressure starts to drop, or coolant temp starts to rise, suddenly, best be finding out the why. No real need to "Baby" an engine while breaking it in. Do so as you tend to drive it, is what I was taught. And I was taught by ones what built racing engines along with your every-day drivers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Yep. If you go performance/race build like forged pistons, moly rings and such, you should actually drive it like you stole it. +1 on gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 So basically just drive it like you did before the overhaul? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 After the initial test drive and oil change, yes. Just don't baby it or the rings will not seat properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 Our freeway speed is 80. Is that okay to drive or should I keep it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 RPMs are more important. You don't want to run it at 4K for 20 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClassySoob Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 Ok. Thanks for all your info. I am out of questions for the time being. But if anymore occur, I will be sure to ask. I'll post pics when I start my overhaul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urabus1989 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 ClassySoob, Did you complete the rebuild? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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