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New rear parking brake shoes - rotor won't fit


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I have done probably a hundred brake jobs on 10 cars - I'm struggling with my Subaru. Due to stock shortage I bought the parking brake shoes at one part store and rotors at another parts store. I have the shoes installed on the left rear - cleaned lubed adjusted in to place - no gaps Star wheel adjuster is not extended. I attempted to put the rotor in place and it will not go on - no matter how I play with it - seems to be a 16 of an inch to small. 

 

Am I just rusty at doing brakes or are the shoes or rotors the wrong ones? I am calling auto parts stores now to double check for correct parts. 

 

The old rotors will not fit over the new shoes either. Eyeing the old rotors and new rotors look at least visually to be the same dimension. The shoes appear to be the same size too but since the old shoes were down to metal and or fell apart when I took them off its hard to know for sure. 

 

What an I missing? Any thoughts? I'll update this as soon as I verify purchased parts over the phone are correct.

 

Thanks....Milty 

 

1996 Subaru Legacy L four wheel drive with ABS.

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Per the parts stores - the shoes and rotors are correct - although, I still question the possibility of a wrong part. I triple checked the shoes they are pulled back all the way. No paint on pivots. Even grinding the edges seems like it may not be enough but I will try. 

 

...Milty 

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The hand brake is off and cable is fully backed off.

 

I pulled the entire brake assembly off - started from scratch -  wire brushed, sanded - lubed , anti seized , reset springs, and backed off the star wheel adjuster all the way down.

 

The rotor now fits over the shoes and spins free but If I put the lug nuts on and tighten a hair passed snug - I have to muscle the heck out of the rotor to move it clockwise or counter clockwise - I pulled up and released the hand brake multiple times and pulled the rotor off and put it back on - but have the same issue if I snug up the lug nuts over a hair - I think I may drive the car a short distance with lugs  just snug -  up and down my road then jack up rear and test spinning the wheel - see results - if it spins - then I'll tighten lugs properly. 

 

Remember this is all with the star wheel not extended a thread - I need your advice.

 

Thanks....Milty 

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How worn were your old shoes?  I have had new shoes that were two thick.

 

Is the adjuster screwed all the way in?

 

If your old shoes  have over a 1/8" pad on them, I'd use them.  Remember it's only a parking Brake.

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Old shoes are down to metal. Adjuster is all the way in. I've only done the left rear driver side parking brake. Still need to do rear passenger parking brake (tomorrow) - very interested to see if I have same issue - FYI all parts are new. 

 

Still looking for more members thoughts/advice.

 

Thanks...Milty 

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Did you/can you compare the new parking brake shoes? I saw that you compared the rotors but maybe its an issue with the shoes.

You shouldn't have to drive the car and wear them in so they don't drag. If the rotor can't spin/spin fairly easily, something's wrong.

If you compare them and they look the same (left wheel verse right wheel) there's probably another issue you might be missing.

If they look different, return them and get a new set. Then check those before you leave the store.

If the adjuster is all the way down, and you looked at the adjuster on the lever and both are adjusted down, its probably either the pad isn't sitting correctly for some reason. (but considering you've redone the job already and came up with a similar issue). It's probably an issue with the shoe.

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I have compared the shoes and rotors with the old stuff and each other - they're are perfect match. I have not tried switching pads side to side - that"s worth a try. I am working on the right rear parking brake this morning - I'll report back once complete.

 

...Milty

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I am having the same touble on the rear passenger side parking brake. If I properly torque the lug nuts the wheel is very very hard to turn if at all - if I back off and just snug the lugs then I can spin the wheel with a bit of drag.  Please advise.

 

....Milty

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As far as the rotor being TIGHT or NOT TURNING AFTER you tighten the Lug Nuts, I have had this on MANY MANY aftermarket rotors.

 

The problem is NOT with the parking brake at this time, but with the small RIM of the parking brake hub extending TOO FAR beyond the rear of the hub.

 

As you tighten the lugs, this rim now squeezes against the backing plate to the point it will not turn.

 

So what I have had to do MANY TIMES is get out my grinder and grind down the rear edge of that hub on the rear of the NEW rotor.

 

If you look at the new rotor from the rear from the edge, you will see it does protrude. As to how much to grind off, some took just a little, others I had to remove quite a it,.

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Did grinding on driver side rear - now rotor spins free with lugs tightened to specs - need to adjust star wheel - do passenger rear grinding and star wheel adj and adjust brake cable.

 

Thanks for sharing the DIY knowledge Ferret - this was frustrating me for a while.

 

.....Milty

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Having a hard time finding part - drivers side rear hub with bearing 4 wheel drive ABS - tried Rockauto, Advanceautoparts, Autozone, - all seem to have hub but only 2wd or non-abs flavor - I guess I could purchase only the bearing and install in current hub - has 117K miles on it. Any advice - where to get part or thoughts on bearing only

 

Thanks,

 

Milty

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Make sure the backing plate isn't rubbing on the rotor first. Also have you driven it to bed in the new pads? Mileage is kinda low for a wheel bearing to fail on that year. 

 

 

AWD the hub is pressed into the bearing after the bearing is pressed into the knuckle, so you can't buy a pre-assembled hub/bearing kit. Those will only be for FWD models. Use your old hub. 99% of the time there's nothing wrong with the hub.

Buy a quality bearing like SKF or Timken, or get an OE Subaru bearing through an online dealer. Also be sure to replace both seals. 

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Appreciate all the info - so if it is pressed into the knuckle first - can I DIY it or do I need to remove knuckle take into a service shop to have bearing pressed in and then followed by hub?

 

The backing plate is rusty and parts are gone due to rust - I had to grind down part of the rotor so it would not rub against backing plate - (advised in my thread above this is a known issue with aftermarket rotors parts - I had to grind down the opposite rotor as well when I did complete parking brakes shoes and pads).

 

I almost suspect the bottom parking brake spring that lays against the star wheel is a bit close to the back of the tone ring and may be rubbing as I spin the wheel and I am blaming it on the bearing. I need to remove the wheel and take a closer look. Thoughts?

 

....Milty

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