Muddawg Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Had to replace the motor in my sons 2003 Baja EJ25 w/ Auto. Couldn't afford a complete reman and ended up looking at long block Ej25's online where I found a motor and the seller did head milling, gaskets, and compression tests. Bottom end has 100K. Problem is I wasn't clued in enough to ask IF it was and EGR motor or not. As it would turn out I was sent a non-EGR motor while my IM and wiring is EGR based. Thanks to the authors of the non-EGR to EGR work a round's ! Ok, need help on my assumptions and next steps. Although my first impression was to drill out the driver side cylinder head to accommodate the EGR tube from IM, restore to stock. I'm a shade tree and don't have a die guide (could make one?) and really want to avoid the risk of screwing this up. So I'm looking at the EGR re-routes to either the IAC or exhaust pipe/header. The IAC work around looks good to me but I want to avoid the car throwing codes so want to make sure I review next steps here to get it right. Does anyone have anymore miles on this work around with comments on any codes being thrown? Also, the forum post of EGR to non EGR swaps notes a hose going to the IAC can be tapped into, in order to route the EGR line from the EGR value to. The pictures look like an older model so the question I have is what is the location of the IAC line I tap on the EJ25?? The Baja IM we have appears to have the IAC connected to the left and right intake ports with a hard line running along with the fuel injector lines. The ends are rubber but the major run under the IM plenum is metal and but looks similar to the fuels lines? Or do I have this all wrong?? If right, these lines look very small in diameter, but do I still "T" in right near where the IAC valve has its rubber tubing connected? Any and all feedback appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 HI, I don't have any experience w/the 2000+ EGR systems and IAC and converting to NON-EGR. The main idea is to find an intake hose that is NOT a breather hose coming off the heads or PCV hose coming off the block. It'll suck in the oil fumes and you'll be known as the 'blue bomber' in your 'hood.....Yes, matter of fact I DID do that. :-) It does sound like your referring to fuel lines or possibly vacuum lines. I would 'think' you could put a hole in the intake - after the air filter - put in one of those plastic hose barbs w/a rubber grommet sized to fit the hole, and run a line to the EGR hard line that normally goes to the head???? Make sense? Or if there's another port on the intake, just "T" off of it. GL, TD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 This is what I did. Ran fine, no codes. I would 'think' you could put a hole in the intake - after the air filter - put in one of those plastic hose barbs w/a rubber grommet sized to fit the hole, and run a line to the EGR hard line that normally goes to the head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 It works, no codes and no drilling needed. Cut the egr tube in half. Rotate to right. Get hose to fit. Get a 3'4" plastic T barb from hardware. Cut IAC hose so that the barb will be facing the firewall. Attach other end of IAC to intake. Now you need piece of hose to go from the barb to the egr line. You also need a fiiting that will go over the small line from egr to the iac hose. Take the egr tube with you so you'll get what you need to fit. I got my pieces from Advance Auto. Clamp the egr connections(hard line, fitting on intermediate hose, and where intermediate goes into the T'd barb). The two sides of the IAC barb don't need clamps as the one piece doesn't use any. Can't take a picture to show the one I did and my drawing skills are non existent. Once you get into it you'll see. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I just did the drill tap on a non-egr left head to as the motor was out of the car. It was not hard at all and it is back to factory. The workaround is not bad either where you reroute the EGR. The tap was a 20mx1.5 and was about $22.00 on amazon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddawg Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 Thanks all. Not feeling so "out there" on this anymore. Appreciate the feedback! I'll report back on progress. Thinking of tapping - 3Pin, did you use a tap guide or just a steady at on the start? I saw another post 16M x 1.5 I'll measure as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 The M16x1.5 is for the earlier EJ engines. I actually just finished this myself on an engine. Drilled the hole to 7/8", hand started a M20x1.5 tap. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddawg Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 (edited) Ok - have my 20M × 1.50 tax using a 19mm bit for the threads and 5/16 for the final hole into the exhaust runner. Just checking one more time on the location, I've seen pics of the other projects on the pre-2000s. Here is where I think I need to drill for proper placement on this 2003 EJ25. If it looks wrong please let me know. Going to thread tomorrow so i can get the motor in this weekend. ? Thanks Edited October 27, 2016 by Muddawg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 That would be the hole you need to drill and tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muddawg Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Well thanks all. It had to be deeper than I thought but motors in egr and all. Again appreciate the tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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