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Loyale Rake


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Yeah these cars always sat a little higher in the back, At least on the 4WD ones. Seems more noticeable on the Wagons. Talk to ADF (Patrick Anderson) on Facebook. He'll give you some good ideas and such, he used to work with Bill Omlin on lift kits back in the day and now he's cornered the market on Subaru lifts (For all generations)

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Also, if your going with a 3" in the front, you'll need to lengthen some stuff since you need to drop the motor/trans as least 1" for axle geometry. So it'd be more beneficial to go with a 4" up front and a 3" in the rear.

 

I wasn't keen on having the front lower on mine, so I finally got it level with the 3rd and final sized kit Lol. If you lift once, you kinda can't stop :P

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If the rear shocks are new, they may be ones intended for sedans instead of wagons.  They are listed as the same these days, but they aren't   The sedan shocks with wagon springs preload the springs a bit more than the proper struts do,, so the car sits higher at the back. 

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I'll be installing my 2" lift in a week or so and wanted to ask about cutting a bit off of the rear spring to even out the ride height. I've read a few things online about it being fine to cut a spring as long as its Tangential. What are your thoughts on cutting a bit just to even her out? 

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Do you have a side pic of the car? I'm curious to see how it sits. Depending how much space is between the top of the tire to the bottom of the wheel arch, it might actually be something with the front.

 

And as robm said, if these springs have more preload than factory because of variations with the rear struts than I wouldn't see an issue with cutting Half up to a full coil off the springs to level it would. You just want to make sure not to remove too many coils otherwise you'll get the "Honda hop" from cut springs. Also removing a coil or so may not be the best idea anyway, as it will give you less tension, and possibly less/slower rebound making the rump roast end of the car want to wash out or float.

 

FYI, when installing the rear lift plates you will need to turn the strut 180* to reinstall because of the angle of the lift plate.

 

-Tom

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That kind of rake seems about average for a 4WD wagon. You also need to figure they expect cargo/payload in the rear and they don't want it to have the Carolina squat. Also having the front a little lower helps with handling characteristics, it also helps with when pulling a trailer, using a cargo hitch or any weight that extends past the rear axle, having the rear become lower sooner will take load off the front wheels and make the vehicle unstable as the struts unload.

 

But again, I know it would be nice to have the vehicle sit a little more level. If anything, combine the 2" lift and change the front springs to another (Ford Tempo etc.) There is actually another front spring which directly swaps into the EA82 front struts. JesZek made mention of it on Facebook, I think it was from a Kia of sort. JesZek, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

It looks like your suspension is original, and depending on miles, it very well may be. 

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... change the front springs to another (Ford Tempo etc.) There is actually another front spring which directly swaps into the EA82 front struts. JesZek made mention of it on Facebook, I think it was from a Kia of sort. JesZek, correct me if I'm wrong. ...

 

You're right, the ones from the Kia Sephia's front, work on EA82's Front, but ride becomes pretty Stiff.

 

I updated my Writeup with Photos and details, at the same time I mentioned them on Facebook's Subaru groups.

 

Kind Regards.

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Right on...Thanks everyone. I think the plan will be to install the lift and do the 6 lug conversion then see how she sits. If there's still quite a bit off rake I'll explore other options. I'm off to the salvage yard to pick up a 90-94 legacy steering shaft. I'll also keep an eye out for a 85-87 GL with the adjustable rear struts. If I can find them I might just pick them up as it would be nice to have some adjustability. I should have the lift by mid week and hopefully get everything on next weekend. I'll see what I can do about posting photos of the process for others.

 

Thanks again...you guys are a wonderful asset to new Suby owners.

 

Cheers,

Jason 

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I don't think any EA82 had adjustable rear struts (XT6 did have air shocks) If I'm not mistaken some older EA82s had an adjustable spring perch on the front much like the EA81 4WD cars.

 

I'll be interested in see the car with the lift on it!

 

Cheers,

-Tom

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I'll keep a look out for the adjustable struts. It's not a huge deal like I said I'm going to move forward with everything and id I'm not happy w the ride height I'll make an adjustment. 

 

Just for info sake....what years should I be looking for in regards to the adjustable struts? 

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Just got back from the yard. Got the steering knuckle and also picked up an armrest center console! The only thing it's missing is the flip up top. Might make one or ask if someone in the forum has one laying around.

 

They only had one GL and it didn't have the adjustable rear struts.

 

I went to a few yards and one guy told me he crushed about 100 old subys last year....ugh.

Edited by Loyale w Cheese
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I don't think any EA82 had adjustable rear struts ...

 

 

Earlier ea82 wagons had adjustable rear spring height.

 

 

Yes, I have pictures of them + part numbers on my Suspension Writeup:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/

 

Kind Regards.

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Camber won't change in the rear, the only that changes is the geometry of the rear wheel. As you put a longer strut in without lowering the rear suspension tube, the wheel will push more forward (Closer to the rear door) So to center the wheel again, you will need to drop the tube.

 

On a 2" kit it isn't really noticeable, but if you start running 4+ you will need to drop the tube. The front camber is basically adjusted with the angle cut into the Lift blocks. And Patrick will make the blocks with nice flat camber.

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