Tips / tools for removing RX LSD?

[JLow03]

Hey guys,

 

I am visiting a yard this weekend that has a turbo RX and I'm planning to snag the diff. Any recommendations for tools that could make my life easier? Any tips?

 

I'm likely going to be working on the car in a less-than-ideal position (old yard, lots of stuff stacked on top of each  other) so any tips and tricks would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

[Numbchux]

You'll need a 12mm wrench to separate the driveshaft from the pinion flange. No room for a socket on these bolts. The Ujoint yoke should bottom out against one side of the hex on one side, so theoretically you can remove them with just a tool on the other side, but you may want a second 12mm if things are rusty.

 

IIRC 19mm and 14mm for the bolt and nut respectively, that hold the front hanger to the crossmember. And then 14? for the 2 rear studs.

 

3/16" punch and hammer to pound the roll pins that hold the axles to the stubs on the diff. But, if it were me, I probably wouldn't bother removing the axles from the stubs in a junkyard. I'd disassemble the axles and leave the inner DOJ cups on the diff. Slice the boot all the way around, or the larger clamp on the DOJ cup. Then pop the circlip out of the groove in the inside of the DOJ cup.

 

I did a write-up on a front CV rebuild, and took a couple good pictures of that circlip:

[DSCF0672 by Numbchux, on Flickr

 

Once that clip is out of there, the axle joint will come apart as you lower the diff out, and you can worry about separating the axle cup from the diff later (if they're particularly tough, there's a cap in the bottom of the axle cup that can be removed, and then you can access the E10 torx bolt that holds the stub into the diff, and then you can really apply some force).

Edited August 4, 2017 by Numbchux

[Skylar]

17mm on the diff studs. I think the big nut & bolt on the hanger is like a 22mm & a 19mm or a 19 & 17

[wagonist]

seems to be some confusion about the size of the bolts/nuts that hold the diff itself up.

I kind of remember the rear 2 are 14mm (EJ diffs are definitely 17) & the front bolt being at least 22 & 17mm (the bolt is a weird combination)

 

I agree with disassembling the CV joint rather than trying to get it off the spline. crud & rust over the years might make it difficult to separate under the car.

If the tailshaft won't drop once it's undone, remove the bolts from the tailshaft centre bearing carrier.

 

So for safety take:

12mm wrench (take 2 of them in case the tailshaft bolts won't undo)

14mm socket & wrench (non offset type will fit up the gap in the rear moustache bar)

17mm socket & wrench (as for 14)

19mm

22mm

knife for cutting CV boots

smallish flat screwdriver for popping out CV circlip

piece of cardboard/carpet (trunk carpet from another wreck is useful) to drop the diff onto. makes it much easier to slide the diff out from under the car after you've dropping it Grab the edges & pull

[JLow03]

Guys, great advice. Thanks for the help with this. Hopefully I will come home with this diff on Saturday. 

[JLow03]

So after all this and going out to buy the proper tools that I was lacking...the guys at the yard cut it out for me. Still need a punch to pop out those pins, though.

 

 

Also snagged the body kit / ground effects off of the same car. Won't be needing the front spoiler, so give a yell if you're interested...

 

[wagonist]

if you can, go back & snag the vertical bar in the middle of the rad support. It's got an extra bracket for the front spoiler

[JLow03]

if you can, go back & snag the vertical bar in the middle of the rad support. It's got an extra bracket for the front spoiler

D'oh! There's always something I miss...