stewartkb Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 The clicking sounds like a front axle (CV joint). Check your axle boots for tears. Clean, re-grease and re-boot if needed. Aftermarket axles suck. The idle issue sounds like it could be the Coolant Temp Sensor. There are instructions on this forum on how to check with a multimeter. Buy a multimeter if you do not already own one. Nice XT .... I don't have one of those ... for some reason. Both boots seem to be clean, no tears. I do have a multimeter, I will have to break it out! I appreciate the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartkb Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 (edited) Well, I had to put a new battery in it - Other battery was toast when I went outside a few days ago and was unable to bring it up with the battery charger overnight. Go outside this morning to head into town and the new battery is drained. I have the charger on it right now. Interestingly enough, I left the key in the on position and hooked up the battery charger - the passenger side fan kicked on; so I am guessing this indicates some type of parasitic drain/short somewhere in the system? Edit: There appears to be a -2.35 drain somewhere in the system (figured there would be more to drain a battery overnight). I pulled all the fuses in the cab and it did nothing. I then pulled the 125 black fusible link and the drain went down to -0.02. Any thoughts or does anyone have a diagram to see what it controls? Second Edit: I may be answering my own questions here. The black fusible link goes to the white wire which goes to the alternator. What I thought was belt squeal may be alternator squeal. The battery checked in at about 12.10 (I jumped started it), upon starting the obnoxious squeal began and the meter was only reading 12.56ish. Once the squeal stopped it jumped to about 13.51 and got to a max of 13.56. From what I know off hand it should be between 14.2 to 14.7 to be considered "good working condition." After turning the car off the battery steadily tricked down and hovered around 12.47. So I know the alternator is charging, but definitely has issues. If anyone has any recommendations or comments to add before I drop $120 bucks on an alternator, it would be appreciated -- thanks in advance! This also doesn't explain the phantom fan, but piece at a time I guess. Edited January 31, 2017 by stewartkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartkb Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) New alternator in, it is at a nice constant 14.5 while running - Also the drain is almost nonexistent. Seemed to actually clear up the jumpy RPMs, still plagued with the high idle. Going to try and adjust the idle tomorrow and see what happens; along with some new plugs/wires, dist cap & rotor. Probably check the timing too. Edited February 4, 2017 by stewartkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 The clicking could also be the speedo cable. My XT did that when the weather got cold, would eventually go away as the interior warmed up. Despite being digital dash, it still used a speedo cable to power the reluctor to trigger the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 (edited) Don't play with the idle setting on the TPS! Chances are the idle air controller is sticky. There are a couple of recent threads on this. I suspect the cold weather has something to do with it. Usually, a CTS problem shows up as poor starting with low cold idle, but it runs well when warm. A sticky IAC often does what you describe. Your alternator problems were probably due to a bad diode pack. If you get anything like that again, try reading the alternator output on AC. If there is a bad diode, you will see lots of AC voltage. If they are good, you might get 30 mV AC. In fact, look at it right now, so you know what it is supposed to look like when working properly, Edited February 10, 2017 by robm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Wouldn't hurt to check the CTS also. Last thing to do is adjust the idle. Verify everything else is correct first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88SubieSnack Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Hi there. Nice looking XT! Do you have any hard or soft codes? I haven't dealt with my situation, but my scanner says that I have a soft code 23 or 24 (can't remember) which is my air control meter (mass air flow sensor). I fire it up cold and has a 2k idle and drops to normal idle after a few minutes. Occasionally my idle will jump around 800-1600 rpm when I drive it then I come to a stop with engine still running, and then check engine light illuminates. If I start driving again the check engine light turns off and the idle is back to normal. I can also peep through under my steering wheel and see the code pulsing its corresponding light sequence on the engine computer. This is definitely a soft code because it is intermittent and I can clear it with my scanner tool and the check engine light turns off. I am not sure if this info helps, but It could be your air control meter. Or something completely different. You say the previous owner had the battery backwards, so that may have damaged some electrical component. I hope you come to a conclusion shortly with your tune-up in post #28. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Very interesting and informative thread. Great looking XT. Thanks for posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartkb Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) While driving (typically low speeds and high speeds) it will lose power, pushing on the pedal doesn't do anything. At times it will stutter and regain power...Otherwise I have to pull it to the side of the road where it goes low idle and dies. Restart car and it goes again, sometimes with continued issues, sometimes none.Don't have time to delve into it. Although the XT is driveable still, I don't want to push it. Edited May 8, 2017 by stewartkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Bad idea to drive it like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 It's tough.... my solution to allow me to drive and afford 30 year old daily drivers is to have 2 of them. Do all the work myself. Most of the tine, when one is down with areal problem, I have the other one. Only catch is if I slack off and end up with 2 projects simultaneously. Came close once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Hold on! Actually those numbers are not immediately alarming. I don't see an immediate diagnosis form those number and wouldn't assume too much from those numbers alone for a few reasons I'm not going to type on the phone when I have a migraine....ehhh.... Turbo pistons are low compression and numbers are lower. These older Subarus have lower stock psi than more modern Subarus as well. A mechanic may not know that about EA engines. Loss of coolant can be the intake manifold gaskets leaking internally. These engines have a shared coolant and intake port that can bleed over. When you were redoing the ground wire mentioned earlier - did you remove any of the intake manifold hold down bolts? I'm wondering if that ground bolt was previously messed with too which maybe loosened clamping force enough to breech that gasket which is known to occasionally leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Hold on! Actually those numbers are not immediately alarming. I don't see an immediate diagnosis form those number and wouldn't assume too much from those numbers alone for a few reasons I'm not going to type on the phone when I have a migraine....ehhh.... Turbo pistons are low compression and numbers are lower. These older Subarus have lower stock psi than more modern Subarus as well. A mechanic may not know that about EA engines. Loss of coolant can be the intake manifold gaskets leaking internally. These engines have a shared coolant and intake port that can bleed over. When you were redoing the ground wire mentioned earlier - did you remove any of the intake manifold hold down bolts? I'm wondering if that ground bolt was previously messed with too which maybe loosened clamping force enough to breech that gasket which is known to occasionally leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Comp numbers can vary a lot based on quite a few factors. I'd be hesitant to assume the end just based on third party numbers run one time. 100psi EA82 Turbo numbers aren't surprising by themselves. Maybe warrants more questions maybe but "confirmation" and diagnosis, no way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartkb Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the reply. I only removed the one bolt to clean it. I am willing to check the intake manifold gasket, I just have to find the procedure so I know what I am doing. Would this also explain the loss of power? That would be great if so. Edited May 8, 2017 by stewartkb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 I might pull the #1 and 3 plugs out first - they're easy and #1 has the "different" compression reading - i'd like to see if it looks different in color. Post a picture of it. if the intake manifold leaks enough - it's just flowing coolant right into the cylinders which is going to affect combustion and possibly performance depending how bad it is. i'm not sure how to test whether it's the intake manifold gaskets or not though. here's a picture - the large round opening is the intake pathway through the heads leading the valves/cylinders. the oval passage just above it (at noon in the picture) is the coolant passage. the three bolt holes around those openings are the intake manifold bolt holes - one of which you may have loosened? which cylinder was the bolt you loosened? If you replace them - use dealer only gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) Hello gents I just bought a sweet 1985 xt turbo She runs great I did a compression check and got 100 psi for all four I cleaned the maf adjusted the timing by ear and she revs nice and hard (when she wants to...) the idle is nice but a tad high I still need to test the fuel pressure and use a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks I'll also check the alternator She does have a odd thing happening sometimes after accelerating hard she will try to continue running but will sputter with a loss of power and will eventually stall, but I can baby her to a safe spot where she will struggle to idle and stall. If she stalls while moving, the key nor bumping the clutch will get her to start again easily. I have found that disconnecting the maf and starting her will make her fire right up and idle nice, but can't rev her past 3,000 or so, seems normal. So I let her idle for a bit and turn her off to hook the maf back up and she will drive more or less normally. I think I am having the same problem as you are stewartkb this must be an xt thing because there is another thread somewhere It seems like I am just not getting enough fuel pressure, but at the same time makes me suspect an electrical issue. My digital dash sometimes comes on and off too, but no ecs light for me I have a factory service manual if anyone wants pics of the wiring diagram, I still have to read this, but I will let you know what I find out monkeying with mine Cheers man, these cars are fun as hell to drive, huh? Thanks for all the tips boys! Edited February 1, 2018 by sparkyboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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