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1995 Legacy Head Gasket Replacement---directions


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Based on my [limited] mechanical expertise, it is time to replace the head gasket in my 95 legacy wagon, 2.2L. At about 230,000, it instantly overheated and white clouds (antifreeze) went out the exhaust. There is also oil mixed with the coolant in the radiator when I changed the thermostat, hoping that was the only issue. So...its time. Also, the timing belt was replaced around 210,000, so im guessing thats not necessary again?

 

A few things/questions:

 

1. There are many brands of the gaskets out there. I've heard only mixed reviews whether to go 0EM or not. So which a gasket kit should I get? I do not want to do the cheapest but I am on a budget.

2. Are there any online step-by-step instructions, a manual, or video on this? I tried the Google thing, and came up with nothing so please don't say "just Google it." Is the repair manual from parts store sufficient enough for this? It seems like they leave out a lot of details.

 

Thanks for taking time to read this!

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My general thoughts. .. Get a factory service manual. I have used only oem or Fel Pro gaskets / sets.

 

Others more familiar with that particular engine would be better at knowing if other things should be checked.

 

That bad of overheat may indicate it wise to check a lot more than just resealing.

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2.2 motors are very easy to do. I have used 6 star head gaskets but they are pretty expensive, about $120 a pair, but they are very good. I have recently used the felpro permaflex gaskets. They seem good and reviews were good, but they have only been in for about a month so I can't say yet how they hold up.

 

As for the work to be done, a store bought manual works pretty good. The important part is having the head surface prepped correctly, and the block. And also the torque sequence is important. If I can figure out how to attach a photo, I will post the sequence for you.

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1. Subaru headgaskets (fel pro seem to be highly touted as reasonable replacements by folks on here in the past, i haven't used them)

2. resurface the heads - find the post on here and you can easily do it yourself.  it's so simple

3. get the Subaru FSM - they're all over the internet for free

 

those heads are really easy to replace - the headbolts are external and the easiest ones Subaru has ever made. 

 

remove timing belt

unbolt power steering pump and a/c compressor and swing them both to the side of the engine bay (no need to disconnect the lines)

unbolt exhaust manifold

remove intake manifold - disconnect fuel lines, throttle cable, spark plugs, engine wiring harness connector, and alternator wiring, and ancillary grounds, etc.

unbolt heads

 

you can even do it in the vehicle - just unbolt the top pitch mount (one nut/bolt) and remove the two lower 14mm engine mount nuts - and jack the engine up a few inches.

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These are all great answers. Thank you. I just did some more reading about this, and the handful of people claim that some magical pour in sealant, similar to a fix a flat, is worth trying before replacing the head gaskets. But based on what is happening that I mentioned in the original post, it doesn't seem like just merely using a pour-in sealer would suffice. Any thoughts?

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Stay away from a fix in a bottle. It can actually lead to plugged radiators, plugged heater cores and more. If it has a bad head gasket, the easiest and best thing to do is replace it. No magic in a bottle solution will help but in fact make it harder on yourself. I've done hundreds of Subaru head gaskets with OEM or SIX Star. I've never been a fan of Fel Pro head gaskets as I've seen too many failures with them.

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the fixes in a bottle *might* limp the car along for some unknown amount of time with severe downsides mentioned by caboob. they're like band aids - they're not long term, reliable solutions...if they help at all, they are going to come undone at some point in the future.

 

It makes sense - ICE's are high temperature, pressures and cycling - 1,000+ degrees, 200 psi - roughly equivalent to woman in 1,000+ degree high heels stepping on your face. this isn't a simple, benign fluid loss situation, and it's almost comical to think it's an idea with excellent success rates.

 

are they worth a shot in some situations? maybe in a rust rotted north east special with no chance of living more than 6 months.

 

are they worth a shot in a financially desitute situation....i doubt it. a financially struggling person, IMO, needs to start making great long term financial decisions and quit thinking short term, and a solid car that can last another few years reliably is better than limping along, getting stranded again in 6 months, and needing some other cheap craigslist special that's going to cost more to maintain/fix repair than they can afford as well.

 

there is a specific Subaru engine that responds well, in certain situations, to a Subaru Coolant Conditioner - that's a very specific engine, and even a very specific failure mode of that engine. It is by no means applicable to any other engines or failures modes. that boils down to physics and facts - not opinions. yours is not one of those engines nor one of those failure modes.

 

you can include links to "readings" you find and we can address those more specifically though i imagine you're talking about the Subaru Coolant Conditioner or Blue Devil.

Edited by grossgary
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None of the magic bottle stuff will fix these.

 

Its likely the heads will need to be resurfaced, but you won't know for sure until they're off.

 

Fel-pro makes the original head gaskets for that engine. They even have the Fuji heavy industries check logo on them. I buy them for about $25 a piece from advance auto with a discount code.

The other gaskets can be pretty much any brand, but I will say that OE Subaru exhaust manifold gaskets tend to last longer than aftermarket.

 

I have a Haynes manual that I don't really use but it does pretty well cover the process for R&R the heads on the 2.2. The torque sequence for the head bolts is correct in the Haynes manual.

The factory service manual makes it seem more complicated since its layout is less user friendly.

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the fixes in a bottle *might* limp the car along for some unknown amount of time with severe downsides mentioned by caboob. they're like band aids - they're not long term, reliable solutions...if they help at all, they are going to come undone at some point in the future.

 

It makes sense - ICE's are high temperature, pressures and cycling - 1,000+ degrees, 200 psi - roughly equivalent to woman in 1,000+ degree high heels stepping on your face. this isn't a simple, benign fluid loss situation, and it's almost comical to think it's an idea with excellent success rates.

 

are they worth a shot in some situations? maybe in a rust rotted north east special with no chance of living more than 6 months.

 

are they worth a shot in a financially desitute situation....i doubt it. a financially struggling person, IMO, needs to start making great long term financial decisions and quit thinking short term, and a solid car that can last another few years reliably is better than limping along, getting stranded again in 6 months, and needing some other cheap craigslist special that's going to cost more to maintain/fix repair than they can afford as well.

 

there is a specific Subaru engine that responds well, in certain situations, to a Subaru Coolant Conditioner - that's a very specific engine, and even a very specific failure mode of that engine. It is by no means applicable to any other engines or failures modes. that boils down to physics and facts - not opinions. yours is not one of those engines nor one of those failure modes.

 

you can include links to "readings" you find and we can address those more specifically though i imagine you're talking about the Subaru Coolant Conditioner or Blue Devil.

 

No doubt some of the laws of chemistry and physics are against the head gasket fix solutions in a bottle, but based on apparently unbiased reports the stuff does work sometimes.  Just check out all the Amazon reviews.  But there are lots of people who don't follow directions too.

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That's a good pint. Read the Amazon reviews. Probably a great central location for hearing success stories.

 

I get that sometimes it works. Read those reviews with the following in mind. It's not long term high percentage, has risks and may lessen the vehicles value should something go wrong.

 

plenty of the reviews are probably for simple leaks, not necessarily combustion chamber breeches. Just like Phase II external EJ leaks, that's a different story, those are easy. And nonSubarus may seal easier = apples and potatos.

 

also a lot of those reviews are people saying it's fixed and then not long after posting they're probably right back at it again. I can literally find dozens or hundreds of "XYZ fixed my head gasket" then later "oh wait no it didn't" posts on Subaru forums, see it often- people think it's fixed and it's not. Just saw one yesterday. Those same people review on Amazon and don't follow up with "no it didn't"

 

I doubt most people doing that stuff are concerned with 100,000 mile 5 year reliability. How many reports like that do we have - many years and miles? Many are limping basket cases along on pocket change. If that's your goal - sure try it, I get it, I was in college paying my way through once too.

 

Agreed. Sifting through reviews looking for similar situations vehicles and symptoms would be a good check.

Edited by grossgary
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Im convinced to not get the crap in a bottle. So I took the car out for a drive after it sat for two years. Drove it 70-80 on the highway for 10 miles. No overheating, but the temp gauge climbed up and then dropped back to normal a few times. Im guessing the head gasket might still be on its way to death, but its interesting how the car is essentially driveable. Either way, it sounds minor?

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A confirmed diagnosis would be good.  Who knows what could be possible on a car that sat for two years. 

 

Keep an eye on: 

1. coolant level/leaks/too much air

2. fans

3. if the radiator might be clogged - I think this is usually repeatable - like it's going to overheat more when it's hot out because the rad can't throw away enough heat, but works fine in cold

4. thermostat is flakey - could it be rusty from sitting?

 

It sat where - in a frigid, muddy, rodent infested hedge row or a pristine heated show room garage?

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That is typical early signs of headgasket tiny leak. You may back able to drive it for 6 days, or 6 months before it gets worse. Watch the coolant level and air in the upper hose like a hawk. Before every drive. It may even vary a bit before it goes bad quickly. Every over normal temperature event accelerates the failure.

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