XHighOctanex Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 So I kinda tasted this is another topic I had but the problem is getting confusing so I figured I'd start a new one. 1992 loyale wagon 4dr 5 speed. I need brakes I know tht as in bad enough to my inner pad on my passenger is pretty much metal. They pulse and what not which isn't a big deal I'm doing brakes in a couple days rotors pads and all. It isn't my daily driver so I've got another car to drive until this is done. Anyways driving around 35mph the whole car shakes, under light braking there is the pulse but there is also the pulling which is more of a jerking to the right. I just put a new passenger cv axle so I thought that for a minute but now I can hear something on the driver side everytime the car tries to go right. Now I figured if a pad was rubbing on the left it would pull left not right, but I could be wrong. Nothing looks bent or anything it all looks fine I had it in a rack yesterday when I did the axle. I'll see what it does after I do brakes and have to go from there unless I find something before then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 (edited) I thought you said the passenger side was the one with the worn pad? This is complicated: If only the inner pad is wearing, this means the caliper slide pin is not sliding, so only one pad is used, and this should give you a pull to the left. But if the pad is really worn (to the metal) it may pull to the right. (Like you are seeing.) Then again, maybe something else is wrong. Best bet is to replace the brake pads and rotors, and make sure the caliper slide pins are clean, well greased, and move freely. Also make sure the piston boots are in good shape, and the pistons screw back in easily (not frozen). Go out and drive it for a few days to bed in the pads and rotors, then test it all over again. Chances are the problem will go away. If it doesn't, get back to the USMB. Good luck. Edited November 22, 2016 by robm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 +1 what robm wrote. Got to fix what is obviously wrong first. Pads to metal, drastically uneven wear, stuck slides, etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 I thought you said the passenger side was the one with the worn pad? This is complicated: If only the inner pad is wearing, this means the caliper slide pin is not sliding, so only one pad is used, and this should give you a pull to the left. But if the pad is really worn (to the metal) it may pull to the right. (Like you are seeing.) Then again, maybe something else is wrong. Best bet is to replace the brake pads and rotors, and make sure the caliper slide pins are clean, well greased, and move freely. Also make sure the piston boots are in good shape, and the pistons screw back in easily (not frozen). Go out and drive it for a few days to bed in the pads and rotors, then test it all over again. Chances are the problem will go away. If it doesn't, get back to the USMB. Good luck. Definitely what I'm gonna do, to clear up it pulls right but it makes a noise on the left of the car like the left pad is rubbing but it is pulling right. And both pads inner and outer are very worn. Just the inner are basically metal. The rotors are warper the pulsation is pretty bad. So I'll do brakes and go from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Sounds more like normal wear then, with pins that don't slide perfectly, but aren't too bad. Make sure you grease them up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 I fixed it guys, well it fixed itself. I put brakes on it waaaaaay overdo btw like half a half of a half of a half of a millimeter from metal on metal, in some parts metal. Anyways I took it on a test drive, was good for a sec then bam still did it. As I turned a corner I could hear my driver cv axle (the one I didn't replace yet) creaking a little. I knew I needed one but figured it didn't ANYTHING like the passenger one did before I changed it and thought I might have a couple weeks. Then when the shaking got really violent now under acceleration I opened my door and could hear it and thought hm maybe that could be it. Well not 5 minutes later when I made a uturn do I hear the obvious boom of a cage blowing up in the cv. I felt something hit the bottom of my car (a piece of the cage I'm guessing since it wasn't big) and then the grinding and no movement. Car just coasted down the road gas did nothing at all. Put it in awd drove down the street home and looked at the axle. Whole thing moves in and out on the hub side. Oh and on the drive home, no more pulling. So in a way it fixed itself. lol so I'm gonna pick up an axle Friday or Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superooo Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Im replacing both cvs today after maybe 5k miles because they got ate by bad trans mounts, just my 2c, dont chase it in a big circle, while you have it up check engine and trans mounts, im doing my cvs the sway bar end link bushings on the body and checking engine and trans mounts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superooo Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 And rockauto.com has rebuild kits for calipers, if you really wanna make sure its 100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XHighOctanex Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 If anyone was wondering I put the new axle in today it's completely fixed no more grabbing or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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