Dgrinnell Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 iTrader: (0) Send a private message to dgrinnell Find all posts by dgrinnell Reply With Quote Alright guys I'm just picked up a 93 legacy wagon awd for cheap for my new dd. It's running rough and seems to not have the power it supposed to have. Ithe run rough at ideal and while running up in rpms. I've already put new plugs and wires and nothing changed. I also pulled the codes which we 14 16 and 17 which says fuel injectors. I can pull the passenger front injector wire off and have no change same with olug wire.but when I pulled the others it will die. I also switch 3 and 4 injector with no change .I'm at a lost here as I don't know much about subarus. I've also changed the fuel filter. I'm sure someone else has had this issue before so I'm looking for some help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 Check compression. Low on one cylinder ? You may have a bad valve. If that year has adjustable valves then check valve adjustment, you might get lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrinnell Posted December 3, 2016 Author Share Posted December 3, 2016 Do you have a guide for doing valve adjustments? Or is there another post somewhere I can follow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted December 3, 2016 Share Posted December 3, 2016 it didnt have a code for one particular cylinder? did you get it read at like auto zone? i had one bad injector on mine once, just one, and i was driving on a long drive and suddenly it got so rough i had to immiedately exit off the highway. then when i turned it off and back on it was fine. it was intermittent. but i had it checked and they said #3 injector and replaced and ran fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkyboy Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 (edited) The adjustable valvetrain started in 96. Earlier ejs have non-adjustable valves, those engines use hydraulic lash adjusters. Like montana tom suggested, starting with a compression test will tell you if there is a valve problem in that cylinder. If the compression is good, then you can move on to checking the injector or ignition. The ignition is easy to check, just pull the wire off, put a spare spark plug on and put it on the body and look for the spark with the engine cranking or running. To test the injector you will need a noid light or put a screwdriver on it and then put your ear to it and listen closely for clicking, it's very quiet, so try it on a good cylinder first so you know how a functional one sounds. These cars are some of the easier ones to work on yourself! If it turns out that you need a valve job, which is rare on these things, at least you will have new head gaskets (mandatory when head is removed, but you can reuse the bolts) and a good excuse to do the timing belt, which is always a good idea when the heads have to be monkeyed with, or if you don't know the last time it was replaced. Keep us posted on your progress! Cheers man Edited December 4, 2016 by sparkyboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrinnell Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 Hey guys thanks for all the help. Just did the compression check and all are at 148 to 150 except the pass front. Not getting anything on that one. What's my next step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 Pull that head off . If it was me I would pull the motor... but can be done in the car , just have to undo motor mounts and lift motor. If your motor wasn't producing large amounts of blow by when running , then most likely you will find a burned valve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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