87subbomber Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 I posted a few days ago about falling victim to buying from webercabsdirect.com. The carb has arrived and although i have not tested it yet, it seems pretty stout and well built. All of the bolts and screws were tight and torqued. the throttle operation is smooth and solid. it arrived later than i expected but it is here and will be installed by tomorrow afternoon. stay tuned for results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 Great, keep us Posted, don't forget to share some Photos with us. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Star Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Just recently I ordered the WK730 Kit for an EA81 through Ebay.Turns out it was not a Redline kit, as I originally thought, but was from webercarbsdirect.com. When I got the box home in the mail, my first impression was of the cheesy paper-graphic; taped onto the box with Weber-colored yellow, orange and red tape. As I'm opening the box, I'm thinking to myself, "Was it cheaper for a reason?" I take out the Airfilter/Tin and the tin doesn't look right, plus it has what looks to be a homemade sticker with the Weber W and says *Made In Taiwan*. Clouds of doubt moving in, I unwrap the carb itself and it looks very shiny, like a different metal from the Redline 32/36 I ordered for my EA82 a while back.Nowhere on the carb is there a stamp with the name Weber, in fact, there are no marks of information of any kind on the carb.On the top of the carb where the W with Weber is usually spelled out, there is just a red W sticker. At this point I know something is amiss. It looks just like a Weber 32/36, but there's no way it is legit. Weber stamps their name all over their carbs.I figure since I have it here in my hands, I might as well check it out and see if it is even worth spending the time to put it in the car. It looks like it would do the job, after all. I go to turn the throttle lever to see if the linkages etc all move as they should...The Primary begins to open, wider, wider, just when the secondary is supposed to engage, the throttle lever will turn no more.The secondary is stuck! The only way to further turn the throttle and engage the secondary, eventually achieving WOT, was to poke at the butterfly; jiggling it enough to unhitch itself.Obviously this can't be done in the car while driving, unless you master some kind of fancy flick with your gas pedal or something. Basically, I had a replica, Interco carb that was only a single barrel. That carb got put back in the box and shipped back to the seller within the hour.Then I ordered the same EA81 kit, this time through the seller I bought my EA82 kit from; allautomotive. Here is some stuff I dug up when I researched a bit: datsunaholic says; "Legally, that is a Weber. Due to some very weird licensing agreements Weber of Italy whored out their brand and logo to a US company that imports Chinese clones, slaps a sticker on them, and calls them Webers. And it's all legal. But they aren't the European-made Webers. Weber itself stopped making carbs in 1992, when production was moved to Spain. The production was farmed out to a 3rd party, but using the Weber-owned tooling. But in 2004, that company went on strike, and all carb production stopped for a full year. The production resumed with a different company in the same factory in late 2005, but the damage was done- for a full year no one, including Redline, could get true European carbs. The other distributors went to Weber North America, who simply farmed out the production using their brand license to whatever company could make them quickly. They were already using the Solex tooling (Solex now being owned by the same parent company as Weber) for the 34DGEC which was close (but not identical to) a 32/36, so they just reverse engineered the 32/36 and 38 and started making them in China. Since the Chinese are very, very good at making knockoffs (with some severe quality control issues in some cases) once the tooling was there, the EMPI clones started showing up too, though they're at least branded as EMPI and not Webers. It may work fine. I have one of the original Interco carbs and haven't had any trouble with it. It's probably one of the South American ones, though, being I've had it since around 2004. " I believe the Solex they are talking about is the even cheaper version than the Interco carbs we recieved. It is identifiable by its oval shaped top, triangular electric choke cover, and straight-angled fuel inlets and outlets. Figured I would commiserate with you and share what I've learned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 ... Figured I would commiserate with you and share what I've learned. Thank you for sharing your experience. A stuck / non-working-properly Secondary on a brand new Carburetor, is beyond Awful; a good thing is that you Returned that K 730 kit to the seller, I hope that they will refund your money. ... the EMPI clones started showing up too, though they're at least branded as EMPI and not Webers ... Besides that E.M.P.I. has good quality products, I prefer Honesty on the products I buy. That's the reason why I wrote this: ... Anyhow, if you purchased a brand new WEBER as they advertised, and you received a Counterfeit product, you should place a lawsuit against the Company, because they are selling Fake products advertising them as original ones; and that is very dishonest for any company; they better should advertise them as chinese licensed versions ... ... and also ... ... In my own humble opinion, selling something without telling the Complete Truth, is a Lie. In example, a Hyundai Galloper is a Licenced version of the Mitsubish¡t Montero, built by Hyundai in Korea, I can Not sell a Galloper, saying that it is a Genuine Montero, despite that Hyundai has the Licence and rights to build the Product. One thing is a Licenced Product (interco), and another thing is a True Original (Weber) Product; there's a lie within the False advertising. They should sell them as interco, not as Weber ... I hope that the carburetor on the hands of 87subbomber came with a better quality, maybe from another manufacturer... ... it arrived later than i expected but it is here and will be installed by tomorrow afternoon. stay tuned for results Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87subbomber Posted December 11, 2016 Author Share Posted December 11, 2016 sorry to hear that. This stuff does happen, licensing agreements fake copies its all bad news. the product i recieved is well built, my technician checked everything, as in pulled it apart. so now today i should be able to test it, if all goes well. i agree dont buy an interco carb thats a copy of weber. but i did and dont have time to deal properly so i will test it run it and if it fails, it will make a fun target Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schnayke Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 (edited) I ran a fake in my 83' toyota pickup for 10ish years. Never rebuilt it, never had an issue. However it was a good fake, all the casting marks and the metal even looked the same as a true weber. I guess the fake are all across the board. I hear a lot of them don't even have a choke butterfly on the secondary. Edited December 11, 2016 by Schnayke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87subbomber Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 I finally started my weber conversion. Found out my fuel pump control unit is bad so i have it hard wired. which leaves me to my next set of questions. how can i wire into the oil pressure switch so the fuel pump only comes on when there is oil pressure? this would be good in case of an accident. My next thought is to make it more modern an use an inertia switch that will cut power in a collision. this is safe, easy and fairly cheap ($45). Next set of questions, what do i use for power for choke since fuel pump control unit is bad? I was going to use old choke power, but there is no power lol. After all is said and done i mocked it up. using the transdapt 2107 adapter plate and the 1.75" air cleaner assembly, the hood fully closes. i also have a breather hooked up instead of airbox for the fresh air side. i will post pictures of set up tomorrow evening. I am excited and trying to make everything look like a factory job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 its really a shame at whats become way to common, we went to order online a portable DVD player name brand, we asked whats the warranty? answer none, were like so if I get it and it doesn't work I have no recourse answer yep unless you buy our PLAN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/oldsmobile,1976,starfire,3.8l+231cid+v6,1225358,electrical-switch+&+relay,oil+pressure+sender+/+switch,4588 That switch will work, as it controlled the fuel pump in that line of cars from GM. You'll have to find a way to adapt the threads and keep the stock Subaru oil pressure sending unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160932-revolution-sensorfpcuwill-this-work/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87subbomber Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 thanks scout and tom. Now, could anybody help me out with wiring the switch in that tom posted a link for? i can read a possitive and negative terminal, but not much more than that in terms of wiring 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 One of the terminals on that switch will read continuity to the body of the switch. That is for the Oil Pressure Light, which you don't need. The other 2 terminals will be what you need for the fuel pump. Been well over 35 years since I owned the '76 Starfire, memory has lapsed on what terminal was what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87subbomber Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 Thanks again TomRhere. Orderin a switch from rock auto to see if i can make it work next week for th fuel pump. For right now i am using a Ford Inertia switch to shut pump off in the event of collision. I just got the "Y" fitting so i will finish the job tomorrow. i have pictures but im changing net providers so internet is down until friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now