IAC Valve Price Difference?

[mikeamondo]

Hi folks....   My 03 Outback is throwing the iac valve codes and having typical high idle, then rough idle at stop lights, etc.  Took off the iac valve and cleaned it out as well as the throttle body, which I cleaned while still on the car, reaching in with a rag, as best I could.  But it all back together with no improvement. 

 

So, I looked up the IAC at Advance Auto.... found it to cost $343!   Then, at Rock Auto, 3 options $182, $252 and $232,

 

So.... I googled the number on the blue sticker on my IAC.....  A33-661 R02 .... and found one listed  at alexnld.com for $13  ....  wtf?

 

Here's the link to the cheap one.....   

http://alexnld.com/product/idle-air-speed-control-valve-for-subaru-22650aa19c-a33-661-r02-iac/?gclid=CjwKEAiAj7TCBRCp2Z22ue-zrj4SJACG7SBEcBcsQu9JiwehHyavJQOITly2ihpk0zHVy04iejhutxoC1U_w_wcB

 

So....   what's up....  will the cheap one work?   I guess I could just order and see, but I thought I ask if anyone else is familiar with this issue.

 

Thanks!

Mike

[lmdew]

I'd try it or get a used one.

Edited December 11, 2016 by lmdew

[86BRATMAN]

For that price I would buy it and see what happens.

[idosubaru]

i'd get a used one too but yeah that low price is nutso. 

[Rooster2]

At $13, the price seems like a misprint. The one from AA at $343 seems like a misprint also. How could two parts designed to do the same thing be such wide dollar cost apart??

 

Buy the one for $13. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, you would be out so very little.

[montana tom]

Just checked ebay they range from $9-25 bucks.  Then I checked subaruparts direct and they only had listed one for the impreza but it was oe and cost was $240.  Buy the cheap one , save your original , if your problem is fixed but china part fails, you will have the stock one to reinstall. At that point I would put a new original equip. in.

[idosubaru]

Odd how that works, knock sensors were like that a few years ago, not quite as expesive but pricey nearly everywhere but ebay and a few less common online suppliers that had them for like $8 or something crazy. I've installed those and others have as well, I've never had issues with them.

Edited December 12, 2016 by grossgary

[1 Lucky Texan]

dunno where the part is, but Alexnld seems to be in Israel - I know it says free shipping, but you should ask how long to expect shipping time could be.

[Caboobaroo]

You say you're getting a code? Let me guess, p0519. If that's the case, is the car a manual? If so, I'm willing to bet you have a neutral safety switch going back.

[Fairtax4me]

At $13, the price seems like a misprint. The one from AA at $343 seems like a misprint also. How could two parts designed to do the same thing be such wide dollar cost apart??

 

Buy the one for $13. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, you would be out so very little.

Mark-up.

Advance auto is infamous for that.

There are often price differences between brands due to one brand possibly producing more of a certain part, or having a lower cost for the materials, or more rigorous quality standards.

If you compare apples to apples. Same Brand, same part, different store, different price... That's usually nothing but mark-up.

 

Per the OPs original question, I've always had the best luck if I can stick with the same brand as the original part, and I try to find the best price including shipping for that brand.

 

If it has the cone style IAC, getting a used one is kind of a crap-shoot since those tend to fail often. Get one cheap enough and it's worth it if it lasts a year or two. But sometimes they're just as bad or worse than what you have.

[fgf]

I sent the following posting back in Nov 2012, but cannot find it in the USMB archives - so I'm posting it once again.

The key point is that in 2012 there were counterfeit or defective IACV being sold at attractive prices; they may still be around.

 

IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) on 2003 Outback, H4 (2.5l) engine

I recently troubleshot some IACV issues in my 2003 2.5l Outback. I ran into some apparently defective replacements. Here are some notes about what I learned.

Symptoms included stalling at idle, hesitation when shifting, and a P0519 code, all suggestive of a "sticky" IACV.  Cleaning the air passages only helped a bit. Replacement IACV are horrendously expensive - $300 from most after-market vendors - so it was worth trying a bit harder to fix the existing unit.


This model IACV consists of a small stepper motor whose rotor drives a lead-screw in or out.  A plastic cone at the end of the lead-screw controls the amount of idle air allowed to bypass the closed throttle plate.

The stepper contains 2 coils, which I'll call 'A' and 'B', each of which is center tapped resulting in 6 connections: A1, A2, Atap, B1, B2 and Btap.  The two center taps, 'Atap' and 'Btap', are connected to +12 and the ECU grounds one of the sides in each coil.  Grounding A1 makes the current in coil A run one way while grounding A2 instead makes the current go the other way, thus reversing the direction of its magnetic field.
So there are 4 grounding combinations:
  A1+B1   A1+B2   A2+B1   A2+B2
sequencing through these left to right makes the motor turn one way, reversing the sequence turns the opposite way. To move the valve the ECU steps through this sequence at 200 steps/second.

When you turn the key on to the Run position the motor takes 8 steps outwards (extending the lead-screw to reduce the idle air).

When you turn the key off the motor
 first takes 176 steps outward at reduced (150/sec) speed
 then  takes 156 steps inward at full (200/sec) speed.

A stepper motor driven valve doesn't "know" its own position - it just stays where it was last left - so there is a need to place it into a known position. I think the shutdown logic is as follows:

 1) first keep stepping outwards long enough that the valve closes completely and the motor stalls as it tries to step beyond.  This ensures that the valve is completely closed in a known "home" position.
 2) then step inwards to the desired idle position (mostly open).  (the ECU 'learns' the valve's behavior so it might not always step inwards exactly 156 steps)


If you cycle the key on and off with the IACV removed from the throttle body, the lead-screw never hits the stop (fully closed) so it will extend 20 steps further out after each cycle.  Eventually it will run out of threads and the lead-screw, plastic cone and spring will 'sproing" out - they can fly several feet, as I now know from experience...

This provides a way of removing the lead-screw for cleaning and re-lubricating.  I strongly recommend enclosing the IACV in a plastic bag before trying this so you don't waste time searching for the flying parts...

It also provides a way of reinstalling the lead-screw - while a helper turns the key back to the off position gently hold the lead-screw in place until it gets drawn back in during the second half of the shutdown cycle.

Cleaning and lubing the lead-screw seems to have solved my problem.  However I don't see any way to relube the rotor bearings themselves if they get sticky. If (when) that happens I'll try flushing the motor with solvent to remove the old lube, then flood it with a very light weight spindle oil; might even work...


Before reaching this solution I tried buying a surplus stock IACV being offered for $128.  The part looked absolutely identical to the original - same blue sticker, same part number, etc.  It seemed to solve the problem when installed, but within a week the ECU was throwing codes again.

Examination showed a critical difference.  In the original IACV the shaft is not free to turn - it is keyed.  The replacement is missing the key so the shaft can be turned, and unscrewed all the way out.  The vendor sent several replacements, each had the same problem.  I have a feeling that he had received a batch of defective units, or (more worrisome and the reason for this long note) that someone is manufacturing counterfeit units which may now be widespread.

They can appear to work.  If the motor takes only a few steps then the inertia of the lead-screw / cone may keep it from turning.  However, if a long sequence of steps is made, or if the lubricant is cold and stiff, the lead-screw / cone will start to turn with the motor and thus not move in or out as desired.

The attached picture shows:
 far left: part number sticker, identical on old and new
 middle: defective part, red arrows indicating the keyway and key which does not match and allows rotation and a crude red sketch of the missing part
 on the right two views of the original piece with a proper key - which appears to be a stainless steel shell around injected plastic.
 

Bottom line - if you buy an IACV. check it before you leave the store.  If you can turn the cone and unscrew the lead-screw you've been given a defective or counterfeit part...