1996 Legacy - Is it OBDII?

[Mikevan10]

Please advise.

 

Thanks,

Mike V.

[Numbchux]

Yes. All cars sold in the US in 1996 had to be OBD II.

Edited December 16, 2016 by Numbchux

[idosubaru]

Yes. 

 

If it's noncompliant with emissions then you have to tell the emissions guy that 1996 legacy's are exempt from the readiness monitors.  It confuses some emissions people but it's well documented and part of their protocol they just don't see them often enough to remember or keep up with staffing turn over. 

[Mikevan10]

Thanks guys.

 

I wish I could get away with telling the inspection guy that my 1997 is exempt from the readiness monitors!  That is exactly what I am dealing with right now.   Here's the scenario:

 

MIL illuminates.  P0440 and (sometimes) P0136.  Clear codes.  MIL off.  Drive car.  MIL comes back on anywhere from 10 miles to 50 miles (with shut downs in between).  Clear codes.  MIL off.  Take car to inspection (MIL still off).  Fail inspection since have more than two monitors incomplete (i.e. not ready).  Drive car hoping to get the monitors ready but before they do the MIL comes back on!  Repeat the above....

[idosubaru]

Evap and Oxygen sensor codes - repair them and you're done?

 

I wish I could get away with telling the inspection guy that my 1997 is exempt from the readiness monitors!  That is exactly what I am dealing with right now.    

 

Yours is a 1997, not a 1996 and it involves nominal codes, not readiness monitors, so it's not exactly what you're dealing with is it?

[1 Lucky Texan]

P0440 could be rusted thru fuel filler pipe.

 

the other may be a bad rear O2 sensor - dunno if that code can be fixed with a 'plug anti-foul extender'.

[Mikevan10]

Thanks for the input fellas.

 

GG - Of course you are correct - If I repair all faults I should e good to go.  But at least the P0440 aint that easy!  From what I understand, it could be anything from the fuel fill pipe to the charcoal canister to one of the solenoid valves to, and most likely, a small leak somewhere in the network of hoses and tubes that snake there way back and forth between the engine bay and the fuel tank!  Its cold in PA now (23 F at the moment) and I work in the driveway so I'd really like to delay that kind of witch hunt at least until Spring.  The P0136 I guess could be a wiring issue, an exhaust leak or the sensor itself.  I plan to go after that one and if I can fix that, then my above scenario (assuming I understand OBDII correctly) applies and it becomes a battle whether I cn get the light extinguished, get the monitors ready and get it inspected before the P0440 code rears its head again.

 

I replaced the fuel filler pipe last summer.  It did have a pin hole or two but apparently did not solve the issue.

[matt167]

Once you get down to one code. You get your scanner that can check emissions readieness. Reset your codes and go for a drive. My experience is EVAP is the last test to ready. Emissions will pass as 'ready' with 1 test not ready. You just gotta get to an inspection station right then.. So its the easiest to deal with, without dealing with it. But also, a garage with a smoke machine could find the leak in a few mins.

[Fairtax4me]

P0136 is for the rear sensor. Check the wiring where it runs down the side of the transmission. More than likely it just needs a new sensor. I've used the Bosch universal sensors for the rear on a few occasions and have had any problems with them. Just have to make sure you match up the wires correctly.

 

The P0440 is usually a rusted out filler tube. Hack the plastic cover off of it and see if it's rusted out at the bottom where it curls under the car. That can be patched with some of that fuel tank patch cement if you sand away some of the rust.

It could also be a split vacuum hose on the engine going to the purge valve. Only takes a minute to check those and they're an easy fix.

 

Have also seen the evap purge valve stick open and cause that code. It's under the intake manifold on the passenger side. Pull one of the vacuum hoses off it and see if you can blow air through the valve. If air goes through it it's stuck open or there's some carbon stuck in the valve keeping it from sealing all the way. It can be disassembled and cleaned out if you're careful. New purge valves are over $100 last I checked. They don't fail often so used is a good option.

[idosubaru]

Fairtax - he already replaced the fuel filler pipe. 

 

 

Don't those lame canister emissions codes always come down to a leak/hose/valve - maybe you can get the diagram for that car and plan an easy attack?  Check each hose end and the valve?

 

we don't have emissions and i ripped those all lines and canisters off my 1996, nice clean engine bay.

 

I get that totally.  i was confused why you were asking about OBDII as that's not going to fix anything either, i wasn't trying to be a dork. lol