SoobGoob Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Hey all! Been a long time since I've been on ultimate subaru! Fell in love with my 4Runner years ago and until yesterday didn't own another subaru. So long story short is I am from Portland Oregon but currently living in Melbourne. I purchased a used 1999 forester gt with a ej20t in it. The car overall is in decent shape, runs alright except for 2 things. Sometimes it idles low and a little rough. Usually after speeds of 100k/hr. Which lead me to believe the maf. So I took the pod filter off and refitted the stock air box with a new filter and cleaned the maf. Not much changed but at least it's not pulling in hot engine air anymore. The other symptom is when I'm accelerating a little hard and the turbo starts to go positive, it's not a smooth acceleration. There's a little bit of a "hesitation" or "chug" I'm not quite sure how to describe it. I'm not very familiar with turbo engines, the only I've owned until now being the legacy sport sedan general disorder now owns. But I never drove it lol. Gotta love projects. If there's any regular servicing of the turbo system I should do immideatly that would also be handy info. Thanks all! Glad to be back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 Oh also there is no CEL, code being thrown. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhrps Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 SoobGoob, Get the codes read so we can know where to start at a diagnosis. As for the idle problem, have you cleaned the throttle body and the air idle control? They are the usual first places to start with an idle issue. What's your mileage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 Sorry there wasn't supposed to be a comma. No cel, no codes being thrown. It has roughly 160k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 (edited) Hi, On the turbo cars esp., vacuum leaks are NOT your friend. I'd start w/whatever way you may have to check for leaks. I'd be supsect of the Turbo inlet hose (where it connects to the turbo) and whatever else may be sucking in unwanted air. Also, the COP (coil on plugs) from the older EJ20x's were not known for longevity - may be more the real early EJ20G engines though??. They can cause issues. You can Google for 'How To' test those. Edit::::Or does this have a Coil Pack?? And just to verify...the Check Engine Light (same Down Under?) Does illuminate when you turn the key ON>>Engine OFF, correct? GL, TD P.s.How's the RH driving going? Much adjustment? Edited December 21, 2016 by wtdash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 In going to test for vacuum leaks soon. Is maf cleaner sprayed around the engine looking for revs still the way to go on a turbo engine? I will also check the piping this afternoon for any leak, should I use the same method or do a visual inspection/make sure everything is tight? This engine has a coil pack not coil on plug. I am also experiencing pretty poor fuel economy, I haven't done the math yet but it seems that way. As for driving on the other side of the road, holy crap. I always thought to myself "I can drive a RHD car on the left, easy. But when you find yourself coming to an intersection and you know it's just reverse of how it usually is, it can still throw you for a loop. Plus the wipers and turn signal stalks are swapped so I find myself turning on the wipers a lot instead of the signals hahaha. Checking for your blind spot is weird. Overall, it's all weird. Like learning how to drive all over again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 Oh also, yes the CEL comes on at bulb check. But not after engine is started Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 (edited) Yes, I think the MAF spray should work...but I'd double-check online/other forums about the 'best way'. BTW, you're not 'just' experiencing turbo lag when the turbo kicks in (or doesn't), correct? The engine actually kinda slows, says 'hold on a minute', has a little 'fit' and then it starts to go? Turbo lag is more like you push the throttle and nothing happens for a few seconds (depending on RPM and what gear you're in), and then you get the kick in the backside and GLH (go like heck). It's worse if you're driving an Automatic-equipped turbocharged Subie....been there, regretted that. And the car's state of tune is up to date? Plugs, wires, fuel/air filter, etc. are all good? You might go look on ozfoz.com for more feedback. Td P.s. I drove one time for just a couple of miles when in Sydney back in '07 (my wife is from Brisbane), and it was interesting...esp. w/a round-a-bout. Edited December 22, 2016 by wtdash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 Happy holidays guys. Haven't had a chance to check much with Christmas and such. Will take a look tomorrow and see what I can find. Wtdash as for the hesitation issue it's definitely not turbo lag. It's more like I have a leak somewhere causing positive air to escape and high pressure. I would describe it as a "shudder" during positive pressure/High revs/acceleration. Also noticed a popping sound when I let of the gas at higher revs, so I'm thinking it's either running rich (can smell unburnt petrol) or exhaust gaskets are bad on the heads. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobGoob Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Update: got under it today armed with some soapy water and found one small exhaust leak at the bottom of the uppipe. I'm going to replace all of the exhaust gaskets on the front. Took off the intercooler visually inspected for any leaks and made sure everything was tight at reinstall. Cleaned the iac and the throttle body. Found a digital boost controller under the dash, hooked back up, found turbo timer and hooked back up but car won't stay running after I turn it off. Found TD04 turbo from wrx. Found greddy fuel management system with "active" light lit. Going to get all the manuals for these items before I fudge with it. I'll keep you updated after I replace the exhaust gaskets. Would even a small exhaust leak make a difference? Also noticed on the boost gauge that I never boost over 7-8 psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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