Clutch slipping and I'm a determined nube

[Wizard]

hey subaru folks,

I have a 96 subaru legacy L 2.2l wagon. my clutch just recently started slipping and yesterday a burnt smell started to develop. I'm a new dyi mechanic. I have done jobs like struts, rack and pinion, new brake calipers, new tie rod ends, new bearings, new ball joints, CV axles, spark plugs... there may be some other things in there that i have done that I am forgetting but the point is that i wanted to give you an idea of what sort of experience i have had. All self taught through youtube and some help from a mechanic friend. I have never done a full engine pull and the thought is kinda daunting to me but now it looks like fate is forcing me to do it. I certainly don't have the money to take it to the mechanic but i do have access to all the tools i would need to do the job except a cherry picker which i would rent. from all of the videos that I have watched it seems like a pretty straightforward procedure there are just a lot of steps.

 

my questions:

-Is there anyway that I don't have to do this, at least right now? How long can i put this off for and what are the consequences?

 

-Does anyone have any methods for staying organized and remembering what goes back where when its time a few days later?

 

-It seems like I could do this job in theory but theory is way different than practice. Does anyone have any tips or tricks I may not see in a video online? What may happen to a newbie that I would want to avoid?

 

-Anybody have any words of encouragement? Is this even something I should attempt? I have a mechanic friend I can ask questions too but he won't be able to hold my hand through this one. Looks like I'm on my own out in the shop. Is there any reason I shouldn't go through with this?

 

-Should I do my head gaskets while i'm at it? I've been thinking of doing this for a long time. There is grease all over my engine and it has been pointed out to me that this may be early signs of head gasket failure. I already have an engine gasket kit but it isn't OEM. what do you think: return it/sell it or use it?

 

-What else should I look at doing while my engine is out? Timing belt was done at 105k miles and now she is at 137k miles... so it doesn't seem like that needs doing unless it was just a belt slap job which i don't know of. Timing belt happened before i owned the car. 

 

whew thats a lot of questions. don't feel obligated to answer all of those... just the ones you are interested in.

thanks for the help.

-Aaron

 

p.s. anybody in the grass valley CA area on this forum want to help me out? I ain't got much to give for the help but maybe someone wants to help for the fun of it. 

Edited January 5, 2017 by Wizard

[montana tom]

96 2.2 best engine subi has made. Completely non interference.  Buy a complete exody or luk clutch kit ,with new pilet bearing, throwout bearing,pressure plate/ disk and an alignment tool.  question 1) yes, do it now or you will destroy the flywheel . 2) Take photos with your phone at each step, place parts together that go together. 3) avoid forcing the engine back in on reinstall ... if the clutch isn't lined up... pull it out and try again.4)This is one of the easiest subis to pull.5) No !!! leave head gaskets alone, thats more than you need to tackle, and that motor does not have the head gasket issues that the newer ones  do.   

[Wizard]

thanks montana tom. I'm curious what you mean when you say the ej22 is completely non interference? I also forgot to mention (I edited it since) that i already have a gasket set for my engine. its not OEM though. I didn't know the value of OEM when i bought it so now i am thinking i will sell it and get an OEM kit. what do you think? pretty sure you'll still say to leave the head gaskets alone.

[DaveT]

If the engine isn't leaking don't touch the gaskets. I don't use anything but oem or Fel Pro for heads, and the others.

 

As above, have space or boxes whatever to put parts in to keep related things together.

 

Non interference refers to the arrangement of the internals. As in, if the timing belt broke, would pistons hit valves. Interference engines ,if the timing belt breaks, pistons hit valves and is very expensive to fix.

 

Non interference, just replace the belt and idlers, and drive.

[montana tom]

Funny thing about subarus is in most cases you just reuse the old gasket (not head gaskets) .In your case leave the heads alone until the day they leak. To change the clutch  (about a 3-4 hr job) you won't need any gaskets. Rent a cherry picker , drop the exhaust (4 bolts) at the head remove 2 motor mount bolts . While under neath unplug the electric fans , and undo the lower rad hose.  pop  up and pull radiator with fans . At that point you have a starter & 4 engine to tranny bolts ,heater hoses and 3 large wire connectors at the pass rear. ps pump just gets put aside same with a/c ,don't disconnect them just unbolt & put aside . a few vacuum lines  , the dog leg to the trans & support the trans when you pull the motor away.  I make it sound easy because it really is.  There are the other things like drain the rad , draining the engine oil ,disconnecing the battery and more i'm not thinking of. But this isn't rocket science , you can do this. 

[987687]

You should actually replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. If they're been in there a long time, they'll probably disintegrate when you take them out. 

Also buy at least two hose clamps for the radiator hoses, and two for the heater core hoses. If you still have the stock wire band kind, they'll be a ball of rust and break when you remove them.

 

I know everyone is saying not to take anything else apart or whatever while you're in there but.... If you're close to a timing belt job, it's a hell of a lot easier with the engine sitting on the floor.

Replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets. It's like $20 in parts and every subaru has leaky VC gaskets. Make yours not have leaky VC gaskets.

[AdventureSubaru]

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html

 

Here's everything start to finish. Bout the only real difference is that yours will be cable driven. No need for a new flywheel as this guy does. It will take you a full day but it's not a bad job.

Edited January 5, 2017 by AdventureSubaru

[lmdew]

Have the flywheel surfaced and while it's off reseal the rear breather plate on the back of the block.  If it's the plastic one, the Subaru metal replacements are under $20.  Gray RTV is the sealant to use when you put the plate back on.

[moosens]

Also disconnect your O2 sensor before you drop the exhaust. Mine slipped before I could support it and tore one of the wire leads out of the sensor.

[Wizard]

thanks everyone! this is a great help especially what you posted AdventureSubaru. I started the project today. didn't get that far. my exhaust is out and so is the starter motor. I decided to go the drop the tranny method rather than the pull the engine route because i don't have a hoist and I'm trying to save my money. I already did my valve cover gaskets about 6 months ago. I also have new exhaust gaskets that were put on in November. So no need to do those things.

 

 

I fount a linkage that is very loose. its the top linkage that is the picture (this isn't my car its just the same part): http://smg.photobucket.com/user/subyrs1/media/Subaru%20Clutch%20DIY/Step15.jpg.html

 

I was wondering if maybe this could be why my clutch is slipping. but there is also the burning smell that happens when the car is in 4th or 5th gear to account for. I haven't gotten into the transmission but the fluid is clear and clean. is it possible that this is a linkage problem and something else is causing the burning smell?

[DaveT]

The only thing in a standard driveline that can slip is the clutch. The gearbox is either in or out.

[987687]

That linkage being loose will just cause slop in the shifter. It'll make the shifter wobble back and forth when it's in gear, etc. If you have any plans on replacing the shift linkage bushings, do it while the transmission is out. It's a pain doing it in car.

[fgf]

re keeping track of parts: I buy various sized zip-lock sandwich and freezer bags (at supermarket) - in which I store each set of parts and label as I go with a Sharpie felt-tip.  I ended up with at least 100 bags during my 96's overhaul - but that involved a lot more than just doing the clutch.

Also take many pictures as you go - you might never need them, but if you do they certainly help!

 

The hardest part may be separating the trany from the engine.  The 2 steel dowel pins tend to corrode in the aluminum castings and can be very hard to break free.  I ended up grinding some 1/8" steel straps to make a half-dozen very gradual thin wedges that I could tap into the split.  Patiently working my way around (evenly) eventually got my 96 2.2L to separate.  Before reassembling, clean the dowel pins thoroughly and slather hole and pin with anti-sieze...

[fgf]

When you have the trany off, check the back of the engine for signs of leaks.  The usual culprits are the rear RH camshaft support and, as mentioned above, the oil separator cover.  The camshaft support comes off with 2 screws and contains a thin O-ring.  The O-ring in my 96 was hard, brittle, and leaking oil - an easy fix (get the O-ring from Subaru).  The separator plate in some models was plastic and tended to crack.  Replacement from Subaru is metal.

 

Check the snout of the trany - that is what the throw-out bearing slides on and it can get worn.  If badly worn you use a clutch kit that includes a sleeve that slides over the snout and a throw-out bearing with over-sized ID to match.

 

Other items to check - the clips that hold the throw-out bearing to the clutch release lever and the pivot that the lever pivots on - both cheap parts worth installing if originals are worn or corroded.

[joomanburning]

Definitely replace the throw out bearing clips and pivot retention spring (aka mousetrap spring). They're like $5 from the dealer. You might go ahead and replace the clutch fork too, for they are known to break. Mine did a few weeks ago at 195k. Rendered car inoperable. The motor has to come all the way out for it too, so do it now.

 

As stated above-if you can feel even a little groove on the smooth part of the transmission snout, order a sleeve. My snout was a little worn so I installed the sleeve. World of difference- no more chatter when taking off from a stop, and the clutch is butter smooth.

 

Note- the snout repair sleeve REQUIRES a matching oversized bearing -- every kit I've found offering a sleeve, offers the oversized bearing to go with it.

 

One such sleeve kit-

http://www.pdmusa.com/

 

Note 2---People (especially the tuner nuts at NASIOC) will steer you away from AMS clutch kits- but they come with a nicely machined sleeve (with set screws!!) and quality oversized bearing to match for 1/3 of the cost. I've had nothing but good luck with these kits. But if you can go the OEM/Exedy route- do it.

 

Sandwich bags labeled with sharpie save my a** every time.

Be prepared to get creative and buy swivel sockets for the bell housing bolts.

Edited January 8, 2017 by joomanburning

[montana tom]

There is only 4 bolts on the bellhousing. The two uppers are in plain sight (one is a starter bolt) , the two lowers have tight access and rarely come finger loose. A good quality 14 mm ratcheting box wrench will take them right off. The guide dowel pins can be a pain to get loose , just pry a little on each side and they will come off.

[Wizard]

What do you do if you break a bolt in the transmission housing? The Head came right off and the shaft is still inside. It's one of the mounting bolts

Edited January 9, 2017 by Wizard

[lmdew]

The lower studs are not bolts but a nut on a stud.  

Same for the lower starter nut and stud.

 

If you did by chance break off the head of the bolt, no problem, just pull the engine and then put a vise grips on what is left of the bolt and unscrew it once the engine is out.

[987687]

The more annoying thing there is having the nut stick to the stud and unthread the stud out of the engine. Since there isn't clearance past the axle you have to slowly pull the engine away from the transmission while unthreading the stupid thing.

[Wizard]

no thats not what happened. one of the four bolts that connect the transmission to the transmission mount broke off pretty evenly inside the actual transmission. i got the transmission off by my self though! didn't pull the engine. just dropped it out the bottom by tilting the engine backwards and tugging a lot; with a little bit of wedging to move it backwards off the studs. it balanced perfectly on the jack.

[DaveT]

Get a jam nut I'd no bigger than the broken bolt. Weld it to the broken bolt. Tig torch in the the hole works good. Be quick. Once it stops glowing, unscrew it. The stress from the heat will weaken the grip of the corrosion.