l75eya Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 My niece has a 97 Impreza that is binding bad in turns. I'm much more of an old gen guy so I'm learning here (as well with the outback I posted about that's at the shop I work at and with the ej18 I'm resealing to put in my Loyale). So far I can give this information: No trans codes At temp light flashes at startup and then goes out (assuming this is normal?) Checked for power at the FWD fuse holder and one side is hot. When I place a fuse in the holder I then have no power across the fuse(at least not with a test light) When the car has bind in the drivetrain and you put it in park and shut it off, as soon as you shut off the engine the car will roll a little (as if the bind is being released I'm imagining) Trans fluid clean and full. Gear oil clean and full. I also read somewhere that the car should have a FWD light that comes on in the instrument panel, but with a flashlight I see no light like that, and nothing comes on when the fuse is in the FWD holder The fuse in the FWD holder has no effect. Car is still AWD locked. I'm welcome to all suggestions I would love to get this fixed. I was thinking maybe the clutch packs are shot but why does it seem to release when the car is shut off? Thanks in advance for all replies! This is a 97 ej22 single exhaust port motor, 4eat trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Yep, when you put the fuse in you should get the FWD light on the dash. The C-Duty coil is most likely shot. You can change it if you drop the trans extension shaft. Search Torque Bind, you will find lots of good pictures and info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 what he said - needs a new Duty C solenoid in the rear extension housing. can be done in the car without dropping the transmission...but you gotta deal with exhaust/heat shields which can be the biggest annoyance in rust areas. smooth out the wear marks in the transfer drum, and maybe consider new clutch plates or inspect them, though I'm not entirely sure how the're inspected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 might be worth checking the wiring for rodent or other damage - otherwise what they said ^^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 And...No, the AT Temp should NOT flash - comes on w/key and go out after Start. If it flashes 16 times there IS a code. Find the link online to read 'em. Td Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Thanks guys, I will read up on the torque bind issue. I do know this car was towed with the rear wheels on the ground for about 60 miles. I checked the TCM for codes with a snap on scan tool and it didn't list any current, pending, or history codes. The at temp light flashing did concern me but the fact that it doesn't stay illuminated confuses me. I'll look into looking for codes a different way than through the odb port. The rodent idea or either just the fact that wires could be messed up is something good to go on as well, due to the FWD socket being inoperable. I looked over the harnesses real quick when I had the car on the lift and didn't see anything but it was a quick look over. Good food for thought though, thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 if it was towed like that, there was no pressure to separate the wet clutch discs, so, lot's of sturning with no pumping action of the fluid. Good chance of damage/reduced lifespan. new fluid is probably a must if you want to try to save this trans - probably change the filter on the side (97 has that right?) - MUST use actual Soob trans filter, looks like an oil filter but is more like a screen inside. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I was going to post that the replacement of the duty C solenoid cost me $600 at an indy shop. However, when I got to the part where the car was towed 60 miles on the back wheels, I would say forget about it. There's no point in replacing the duty C unless you know that the clutch disks are ok. So you should disconnect the rear drive shaft and just enjoy your front wheel drive vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 When the TCU has a code it flashes the light 16 times at start up. That's what it's supposed to do, it doesn't stay lit like the check engine light. That's normal. There will be a stored code and it can not be accessed through the OBD port which was probably used with the snap on tool. Again that's normal. The FWD fuse will not work if the 4WD components are hosed - that's like expecting a light switch to work when the bulb itself has failed. - the duty c solenoid is the most common and often triggers the AT light. It is what controls FWD/4WD. Also common and normal. So this is all normal stuff. Check Duty c wires and see if it has continuity /proper resistance. Torque bind and fwd fuse not working is typical Duty c solenoid failure. Read code and test Duty c circuit to verify. The improper towing means it needs thoroughly inspected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 And as he said you can pull the rear driveshaft and run it in FWD. or pull the front axles and run it RWD. Lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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