1995 Subaru Legacy AWD - Tow Dolly

[mcnea001]

Hello all:

 

Looking at a 1995 Subaru AWD on craigslist that needs some love.   Super cheap since it needs a head gasket.

 

I own a tow dolly (how I brought home current 1995 FWD).    

 

I know I can't tow an AWD on a tow dolly, but I just saw a thread on another website that said the following....

 

on the older stuff (90's) there's a capped fuseholder in a harness along the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle. The cap on the fuseholder is labeled FWD. (black holder, white letters, from what I recall) Open the cap, and pop in a fuse, and you're in front wheel drive mode. I don't know what rating of fuse you need, though.

 

Is this true on the 1995?   Could I then drag it home on a dolly?

 

Thanks as always for the help.

 

Tom

[1 Lucky Texan]

the FWD fuse will only work with the engine running.

 

I think some folks have disconnected the drive shaft - that should allow towing with rear wheels down but, I'll let others confirm that.

 

Otherwise, flatbed or get the car running. (all 4 tires must be the same. if not, with the car running, use the FWD fuse.)

[lmdew]

Yep, I do it all the time.

Put it on the Dolly

Jack one rear tire

Trans in neutral

Brake off

 

12mm box end wrench and a large straight slot screwdriver.  Put the SD through the u-joint to hold the drive shaft while you loosen it.  Pull the bolts nuts and washer out.  Before you pull the last one, scratch the drive shaft and rear diff so you can put the driveshaft back on in the same position. 

 

The driveshaft will just lay in the tunnel and ride free against the rear diff.

 

Bolt it back up before you pull it off the dolly.

[idosubaru]

Exactly what he just said - easily can be towed on a dolly following his instructions.  except if you're dealing with rust i'd take a closed end wrench, preferably a long one or one you can extend (two interlocked wrenches) and any 6 point tools that might fit in confined spaces.  or if they're rusted really bad it's actually helpful if they just shear off, LOL. 

 

I towed one Subaru with the FWD fuse in the holder and left the engine running the entire time so it was circulating fluid. still on the road last i heard.

[Dj7291993]

Theoretically, if the transmission's pump isn't running, there is no fluid pressure to apply the clutch for the rear wheels. IF it's an automatic. Manuals don't have the fuse, and it's a mechanical awd. Either way though, disconnecting the rear shaft will ensure it doesn't hurt the system. As long as it's got fluid in the rear diff.

[idosubaru]

Theoretically, if the transmission's pump isn't running, there is no fluid pressure to apply the clutch for the rear wheels. )

Does fluid pressure release the clutches or engage them?

 

The Duty C solenoid "locks" the 4WD when it's not powered/non-operational. So I'm wondering if its nominally locked but the solenoid and fluid pressure releases the 4WD.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Does fluid pressure release the clutches or engage them?

 

The Duty C solenoid "locks" the 4WD when it's not powered/non-operational. So I'm wondering if its nominally locked but the solenoid and fluid pressure releases the 4WD.

 yeah, thas way I understand it is, 2004 and earlier were defaulted to 'lock' and the solenoid's opening would release the locking pressure?

 

I think the function was reversed in 2005?

 

I guess though, for both, you'd want fluid circulating for cooling and lube?

[idosubaru]

 yeah, thas way I understand it is, 2004 and earlier were defaulted to 'lock' and the solenoid's opening would release the locking pressure?

 

That's how it is with the car running, but is that from fluid pressure (supplied by the trans pump/engine running) or are they always locked. 

 

I guess though, for both, you'd want fluid circulating for cooling and lube?

 

 

If the clutches aren't engaged then that's probably the main concern.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 yeah, thas way I understand it is, 2004 and earlier were defaulted to 'lock' and the solenoid's opening would release the locking pressure?

 

I think the function was reversed in 2005?

 

I guess though, for both, you'd want fluid circulating for cooling and lube?

[CNY_Dave]

Fluid pressure is used to lock the plates together, all years- that is, no fluid pressure, no lockup. The 2004 change affects hpow the spool valve is operated only.

 

BUT

 

that doesn't mean there is any fluid running over the plated to cool them and keep them from heating & scuffing, and even engine running it was never made to accept as much slippage as you'd get from front-wheels-stopped, rear-wheels-turning.

 

Rear wheels down, FWD fuse in, engine running would be fine at really low speeds. Like 10? 15? would be my guess.

[Dj7291993]

I did double check the hydraulic circuit diagrams for my 2000 Foz, just to be sure I was remembering correctly, but yes, it is a normal hydraulically applied wet clutch, just like the other ones in the automatic.  In the earlier ones at least, pressure is constantly sent to the apply piston, causing the clutch to lock the rear driveshaft to the output shaft of the trans.  The Duty C acts as a bleed off valve, normally duty cycled by the PCM, or with the FWD fuse installed, constantly powered.

 

As to the cooling, in theory, the other clutches in the tranny are doing the same thing when flat-towing (like with a tow rope) a car in neutral.  However, as I said, the best solution is the one mentioned above, of disconnecting the driveshaft (from the diff side).  This is true even for fwd and rear wheel drive cars, as over long distances, you increase the chance of something going wrong with having more moving components.  Especially if said components are operating outside of their intended conditions.  I.e. a manual transmission being towed on a dolly has the fluid sitting in a non normal way for an extended time.  Short distances, the chances of toasting something are less, but long distances, if you can take away the possibility of damaging something, it's typically best to do so.

[WoodsWagon]

The OP never mentioned whether the car is an auto or a manual, so don't run too far on the assumption it's an auto.

 

Safest is to unbolt the rear driveshaft at the differential. Not hard to do, and it makes sure you won't damage the transmission, no matter what it is.

[bork]

(1) If towing AT on tow dolly with driveshaft disconnected for 2000 miles, the drive shaft will lay in cradle and will it rub diff? That doesn't sound good if it does touch. Bungee cord it or?

(2) If it dies not touch can I idle on & off dolly, and into garage? How does it attach into tranny? Can it slide out?  I might need to pick up car and take to storage for a few weeks, then rent dolly again to finish 1500 mile trip. Avoiding bolting & un-bolting driveshaft to move car on & off dolly.

Too bad there is not a thin  bearing with one side raised outer race & other side would have a raised inner race, too slip in between drive shaft & diff with longer bolts.

[Gloyale]

(1) If towing AT on tow dolly with driveshaft disconnected for 2000 miles, the drive shaft will lay in cradle and will it rub diff? That doesn't sound good if it does touch. Bungee cord it or?

(2) If it dies not touch can I idle on & off dolly, and into garage? How does it attach into tranny? Can it slide out?  I might need to pick up car and take to storage for a few weeks, then rent dolly again to finish 1500 mile trip. Avoiding bolting & un-bolting driveshaft to move car on & off dolly.

Too bad there is not a thin  bearing with one side raised outer race & other side would have a raised inner race, too slip in between drive shaft & diff with longer bolts.

 

I wouldn't try to drive with the shaft dropped.  But you could likely do it if you had too.  Make sure to put the FWD fuse in to prevent the rear shaft from getting power and potentially flopping around.

 

I would bungee it to keep it from rubbing the spinning diff flange.  But it can't slide out as the carrier bearing holds the front section into the trans.

Edited March 30, 2018 by Gloyale

[Subaru Scott]

I always tie the driveshaft up away from the diff when I'm dollying.

 

But I've always had this theory, which I've never tried, of flat towing one after filling the trans slam full of ATF, till it is running out the vent. 

 

Pretty sure that would work 

[Bushwick]

Post was from early Feb. of 2017 guys.

 

Also, FWIW, I once towed an '83 F150 with a C4 auto w/column shifter and 302, pulling from the front, so I put it neutral. After about 70 miles of hilly highway pulling, I arrived at my destination and..... it was running! The column shifter was worn and had dropped itself into 3, which was apparently enough to get it running at highway speeds, just like popping a clutch in 2nd would. Never even knew it was possible with an auto, but apparently it IS if moving fast enough. Granted, it was carb'd and probably still had a mechanical fuel pump, and I think I left the key in it to get neutral but it definitely threw me for a good laugh. Anyways, always be careful with a dolly.

[Subaru Scott]

Post was from early Feb. of 2017 guys.

 

Also, FWIW, I once towed an '83 F150 with a C4 auto w/column shifter and 302, pulling from the front, so I put it neutral. After about 70 miles of hilly highway pulling, I arrived at my destination and..... it was running! The column shifter was worn and had dropped itself into 3, which was apparently enough to get it running at highway speeds, just like popping a clutch in 2nd would. Never even knew it was possible with an auto, but apparently it IS if moving fast enough. Granted, it was carb'd and probably still had a mechanical fuel pump, and I think I left the key in it to get neutral but it definitely threw me for a good laugh. Anyways, always be careful with a dolly.

 

Bork had revived the thread because he had similar questions.

 

Lucky for you, that you left the key on in your Ford, otherwise, you would have roasted the transmission. Sloppy shifter would have had nothing to do with it because without the pump turning, there can be no fluid pressure to engage drive. The only reason it was able to start turning the engine was from the friction of un-lubricated internals starting to seize up. A C-4 could take this once and still survive. A Subaru trans, not so much. A scant few cars from the 50s and 60s actually had a rear pump, and so could be towed, or even push/pull started without damage. The earlier "Ford-O-Matic" 2 speed did have a rear pump, but not the C-4.

 

So yes, If you are flat towing (no dolly if 4wd) a car that runs fine, you can do so in neutral with the engine running. Done it many times.

[Subaru Scott]

This also reminds me of a time while I was still in a dealership, a Leone 4WD auto came in on a tow truck. It had been towed with the rear wheels down, and the transmission and engine was all wet with water. I puzzled over this for a few minutes before realizing that the tow truck driver must have stopped at the car wash down the street to cool off the smoking transmission. It was, of course, destroyed, and the towing company had to buy a new one.